IRONMANTIS

Farrrrk mate if I knew about that font I woulda been all over it

U sound like a good bloke rab! Good to hear there is still people like u out there. Its sad what drugs these days do to people. Destroys families and currupts minds! Pat urself on the back buddy

What for? so It Doesn’t Strain your eyes?

I agree that it is a good price for the system considering it would have cost me a thousand just in material, then there is the time in cutting welding and polishing. I was qouted 1900 installed for the x force system which is far from an extra thousand dollars vybr8r. Ultrex exhaust is ALOT louder aswell and does drone excessively down low although off throttle and full throttle it sounds awesome. When I first start the car the exhaust rattles out of control on the block and somewhere around the diff until its at normal operating temperature then its fine. And it hangs stupid low in the mid section which makes me think vybr8r and I must be talking about two different exhausts unless my exhaust is one built before the 12 months of revision. I dont have the cat on the wrong way either because it only goes on one way otherwise it doesn’t line up with the rest of the exhaust. Which is why I said it should have a direction of flow on it and a this way up arrow! As for constructive criticism the dump pipe should be shorter so the cat doesn’t need to have a flange welded on the piss to try aim the exhaust up off the ground, and it should be slightly rotated so its not sitting 2mm off the block. If its possible to make it so u don’t have to drop the cradle then that's a bonus and time saver. Also the dog leg in the mid section pipe should be two 45 degree bends instead of two 90s, that would aid better flow and prevent the hot spot in the 90 after the cat. In my personal opinion all stainless exhausts should be purge welded for added strength and possibly flow. Or at least examine every weld to make sure there’s no pin holes. And there was some misalignment where the str8 tube was welded to a bend which I would have never welded like that, all joins should be flush before welding. There is literally more than 100mm between the exhaust and the bottom of the car it’s hanging LOW! I ended up putting hose clamps around the rubber mounts and tightened them up to lift the exhaust a bit which is probably putting major stress on the turbo housing, and caused the exhaust tip to melt the rear bar a little. Rectify those problems then we can talk top quality sitting spot on and best bang for buck! BAM!

I would replace the standard turbo oil line with an earls braided item and inline filter ($150ish), if the standard filter is blocked it'll blow your new turbo aswell, a tune wouldn't hurt either and should only cost a few hundred if the car is already tuned. Prevention is better than a cure! Would the misso rather part out a few hunj or a thousand plus every time a turbo blows

This would be a good upgrade but add xcal4 with tune and you will be looking at $3500 give or take, add another 700 to get valve springs installed worst case scenario

Hey buddy did u get it fixed?

Yeah brakes are next on my list. I was considering the dba t3 rotors with bendex pads but now leaning towards the xyz front brakes as I can get them cheap thru a mate. And thinking true track centre for the diff. Hoping for a high 11 tomorrow at willowbank all for day, or a ten in my brothers car

True.... that's a little disheartening to hear, I thought those autos were pretty good. I have only installed the pwr heat exchanger and it seems to handle 334kw ok, (far from 600hp, I know) although when I use the zf tune it gets a bit wild! Holds onto gear in high revs and doesn't want to change when in drive. Dam I've been floggin it too! Only got 80,000ks on it but probably wouldn't hurt to service it eh? So gtx upgrade means gear box tail shaft diff upgrade?

Is the precision 6235 a direct bolt in option? I dont want to build a motor but eventually the standard turbo is going to die, and I will have to upgrade, I can get the gtx gen2 for $2300 then use my standard rear housing with flapper mod and prob new actuator ect, I was told I will only need to upgrade head studs valve springs and balancer to run 600hp safely with that turbo, my brothers bf2 f6 ran 720rwhp in a stock motor with a gtx42 for 2 years before it kicked a leg out of bed at 7000rpm. Surely 600hp would be safe in a 2010 g6et??? So the gen2 gtx3576 is rated to 750hp and the gen2 gtx 3582 is rated to 850hp? Is that right? What sort of upgrade/ repairs are we talking about? Zf? Any recommendations for diff upgrades? Best bang for buck? The single spinner can be embarrassing and unpredictable at times

I made 334rwkw on 98 with injectors intercooler exhaust and tune, was told it would make 370-380 on e85..... has anyone used the gtx3576? My car hits 16psi before 3000rpm on the standard turbo, I could imagine the gtx3576 would be even sooner??? I like the responsiveness of the 3576 but wondering if the gtx3582 would be a better option than the gtx3576? I understand its a little bit more powerful but slightly more lag.... 500rpm or so, any thoughts?

Yeah first check to see if your brake lights work if they dont its the brake switch, then check your battery if its running low voltage it will also trip them codes so either charge it or replace it, in my case it was the steering sensors, (from when I removed the steering arm to fit the dump pipe) I had Clint from profile autosports scan the codes and recalibrate the steering for a very small fee! Hope that helps. All ford day at willowbank this Sunday!!!!

I haven't tried the tyres yet but if it starts causing problems like that I just wont use them, not keen on removing abs fuse.... wouldn't the car adjust to the changes if I drove around with them for a few days? Also a dsc fault has come up on my dash tried to read it/clear it with the xcal4 but it comes up NO DTC CODES FOUND. Brake lights still work and cruise control works battery is fine anyone have an idea what it could be? As I have no traction control now and have to nanna it around everywhere.... zf maybe? any help would be appreciated

Trying to stay away from e85 for now, but maybe when I put in the walbro 460 I will run it just for the drags. I will try these m&h semi slicks out its not gonna cost me anything and it would have to be better than the perrellis, they are getting fried on the street as soon as I hit half throttle...

Ultrex exhaust is also v band I have been fabricating and installing stainless pipes for twenty years and have never struggled as much as I did with this exhaust, its not completely garbage it should have just been made different, a bit more r and d or possibly their jig has moved over time I installed it myself and tried every orientation of the pipes until it sat up as high as possible with the best possible clearance.Will be going back to my brothers workshop in the morning to put it back on the hoist and make a solid mount, even considering making the mid section a twin 2.5 inch, but then it will probably need another tune

I was expecting around 315kw the tuner said it was a perfect night for tuning, nice cold dense air hence the high readings, I dont have many pics but I might throw something on there Yeah im just borrowing the semi slicks off my brother. Thought it would be better than the standards, I will put the tyre pressure down a bit and just give it a go! Hopefully mid to high 11s

Hey new to this site found this thread pretty helpful a few months back, time for the next stage?!? Brought a immaculate velvet g6et a few months back, 1 owner 75xxxks dead stock except for 50th anniversary rims from factory and fpv diff bush and blade bushes, just finished a few mods turbosmart bov earls oil filter and braided line k&n panel filter pw stage1 cooler and piping 4 inch stainless ultrex exhaust zf tune pwr heat exchanger 1000cc injectors xcal4 and tune at profile 334rwkw on 98, hoping to get a mid 11 with m&h 275 50 r17 considering I did a 13.1 in completely stock form. Including purchase price and all mods I still have change from 25k,

Hi im new on this forum, brought a velvet g6et a few months back, dead stock except for 50 anniversary rims(from factory) fpv diff bush and blade bushes, did a 13.1 at willow bank (stuffed the start/gear change) and have now just finished a few mods, pw stage 1 cooler and piping 1000cc injectors xcal4 tune (profile) and zf tune with pwr heat exchanger earls braided oil line and filter k&n panel filter turbosmart bov AND........ 4inch stainless turbo back ULTREX exhaust, 334rwkw on 98! A few things wrong with the exhaust which I will try sort out this weekend dump is extremely close to block and has a pin hole in the weld which I already fixed after it was hpc coated? Exhaust rattles over the diff at idle and low revs needs a solid mount?! Mid section pipe is hanging so low it scrapes on speed bumps and car is still standard height ? Mid section also has two 90 degree bends when it should just have two 45s (im a stainless fabricator myself) and it was soooooo fn hard to install!!!! ? If I knew the diff cradle had to be dropped I would have never brought the exhaust in the first place. Oh and the cat..... the flange on one side of the cat is square yet the other flange is on the slightest angle, (hard to see unless your actually looking for it) which should of been marked with a direction of flow or something coz it can only go on a certain way otherwise the rest of the exhaust doesn't line up! I wish I knew all this beforehand anyways theres my 2cents! Almost choked on it, going back to willowbank soon as I get the exhaust sorted. But this time I will have m&h 275 50 r17 semi slicks and the extra 100rwkw hoping for mid to high 11s