adams355

I said this

Oh sorry I didn't even realise the turbo was only good for 1000Hp, I didn't even have a look at it when you got it I just thought it was 1500hp + capable with the cam choice but all good you are making the same HP that other significantly more expensive cars are with the same turbo. I have been going over cams recently for an alloy headed real holdon efi 383 with single turbo. Turbo cams don't need heaps of duration like NA so old school 230/230 at 50thoa with some decent lift on 112 LSA is a big cam for a turbo car but not for a NA V8 you be looking at 252/258 at 50thoa with more lift on 109 LSA for very serious NA. I don't know how to do the conversion for DOHC at 1.0mm or something so I'm always lost on duration specs with barra cams.

Moving air at 7000RPM Standard Head - intake flow 242 cfm - 400 lift @28'' Comp Head - intake flow 335 cfm -400 lift @28'' The head is good for 1000HP at the crank, that's it untouched, you tuner boys are funny 😁

Its the head resistance to pressure...

Yes and that's why Puff's adventures is such a great channel

More in the turbo and more in the head might have to go heavy on the port Puff can only push so much air through, all the 1000hp-1500hp engines have heavy port work from what I have seen.

You asked for my opinion. Don't stress buddy, I will leave, do what you want.

Maybe Puff will sell you his territory then... And if your C63S is quicker than your falcon it might be time for another tune.

The 60ft time isn't very good, has to be run at the strip too many variables for a phone app or whatever it is.

Its for traffic light racing, when do you ever go 0-100 on the street, you have roll on for most highway merges and power above 100km/h is where they shine and roll racing is taking off. AWD is decent but you have to go epic like Puff. More skill in driving RWD properly as well especially in the wet or track. These cars are just so heavy, if you can take some weight out and have 400rwkw+ they are more fun. I don't think that it is under 3 secs either, has revs onboard to start plus he has 450rwkw? different cams, anything else? You can ramp in the tune for traction makes a huge difference and find ways to lighten the car.

Who wants AWD yuck. If you want AWD do what Puff has done that's the go. Or put the barra in a lighter car... solved and cheaper and still RWD. I don't even understand why there would be a market for this especially at 15-20k.

Do I get a star for trying? I'm 2 marriages and 2 divorces in surely there is something haha

Gulf Western SYN TS also has different viscosity's to Lifeguard 6. The SYN TS is slightly 'thicker', I talked to Gulf Western about this awhile ago because they actually have a better suited transmission fluid for the ZF but due to the fluid being heated over 80 degrees in the standard ford's transmission/cooler setup they prefer to use the SYN-TS. If you run a cooler and know that it doesn't get over 80 degrees you can use the LV ZF transmission fluid which is the same as Lifeguard 6. When I do my next change I am actually going to run the Amsoil multi LV ATF because it is a true full synthetic and my trans never gets over 80 degrees. So I will be the guinea pig for that, though I have already run a few different brands specified for the ZF with no issues. LG6 26.8 @40°C 5.6 @100°C GW SYN TS 32 @ 40°C 6.7 @ 100°C

We all know what the manual says and it usually works for 99% of standard cars. We don't have standard cars we have tunes in them and tunes in the ZF, they run way more HP, so the variables change. If you go by the manual you can't put Gulf Western in them. 🐴🌊

The point is it needs to be full, you can guarantee that doing it when cold. I have heard of a lot of transmissions failing because the fluid was dirty or it didn't have enough fluid in it. I have never heard of a transmission being over filled, well at least not a ZF because you can only get a certain amount in before it will drain out. I'm not here for forum kudos, I worked as a mechanic years ago and still do all my own work at a friends shop. We went through this all 3-4 times last year filling and refilling the ZF. We followed the ZF procedure on 2 different occasions and when I drove the car hard it went into limp mode. A transmission shop recommended filling when cold so I tried that and got a litre in or so. Had no dramas since x 2. You cant guarantee the conditions to be perfect on every transmission with the 'warm' theory. We live in Australia it is basically warm all the time. I have a trans fluid temp gauge on mine and it is usually at 25 degrees every morning when I start the car and only takes a few minutes to be over 30C.

Yea that's what I said to begin with. Does 4.5 L of cold fluid = 4.5 L of warm fluid or is there a mysterious difference? It only matters what amount of fluid is in there. Cold filling in Australia is between 25-30C anyway which is close to the ZF temp 'guide'. Do you think an extra 50-150ml is going to matter. They need to be full that's the most important thing otherwise with 500whp + they play up and go into limp mode if you push them. If you don't want to fill them cold while running get a full transmission flush done with the proper equipment.

They didn't have an exact calculation because they were sealed for life units. They came up with the 'calculation' on re-fill temp years after they had been built, after it became obvious they needed servicing. Most of the time it is fine but if you give them a hard time it will show up and go into limp mode using the re fill temp they they came up with. Some transmission shops require the car stays overnight for that exact reason because they cant give a warranty unless they know it is full when cold.

I do it in Park. The most important thing is that the fluid is cold, first start of the day. They fill them cold at the 'ZF factory' because they are sealed before it even gets near a car. I'm trying to find an article I saw a few years back. Mine would play up until I filled it when cold after doing the service a day before.

Its not the fluid a lot of us here use it with no problems. Was it definitely GW SYN-TS? Otherwise its the tuners issue if it has happened after a recentish tune.

Did it have a ZF tune as well? Check the fluid level when first started for the day, when its cold. Start and fill to it comes out (level ground or 2 jacks etc). Then go for a drive and manually go through all gears up and down changes and reverse. Otherwise back to the tuner.

Flow restriction would be the head

Well done Puff. The big shops charge big money to get up there and you did it at home pretty much. I have a turbo boner now so I am going to change the oil on mine right now ha.

Me likey cams, I think TBRE have a couple as well, not sure if they are off the shelf though, earlier boost and longer rpm. I think these engines were supposed to rev to (make power to) 6k but ford realised oh sh*t these are going to be a bit wild and smash their v8's.

love the updates Puff E85 will be a very good thing

The 460 Walbro will only pull 18-19 amps maximum so in theory you can get away with the stock wiring and a lot of people have including me but there isn't much room for error or spikes or what not. That ebay guy is a trusted seller I have bought a few things off him through the years. Symptoms sound like pump though as you said. Check the connection from the pump to under the module top as well.