adams355

yea, that's what bad belt tensioner sounds like. It sounds like its coming from head. Check first, might be lucky.

Add belt tensioner and idler pulley to list

Yep they are designed to slip until they reach 30C for warm up, shouldn't happen after that though. I prefer the Gulf Western SYN-TS fluid as well feels a bit smoother than the Lifeguard.

What size are they? The shorter ones. I need the bolt size and thread, not the head size. Thanks

Yep, easy 10% in the trans and stall. How does it drive compared? What is peak torque and rpm (if you wish to say). Enjoy its only money

Hey, hey, hey that's a whole 117kw at the fly...... Hmm, who knows at that power level geez, no expert ballpark -10psi for same power???. I know who is an expert though for turbo, blown, NA head work not just v8's either is Tony Knight of Knights engines SA. If whoever is contemplating this could get hold of him I think he would be interested. He isn't taking work on atm but you might be able to twist his arm, at least get some reliable info out of him, honest guy. The young guru in head and engine work for any engine.

Yea , I talked to Spiro over the phone (Its in QLD now) I didn't know it was abnormal at the time though. Maybe it was for a friend or relative, Its really the only way to get 14psi in there on a 'stage 1' tune. It wasn't tuned previously and this was only 2 years ago. Thanks for reply.

So what was the reason mine was tuned like this?

lol, the turbo boys are talking port work Coming from 308, 304, 355, Iron heads. VN heads, alloy heads, manifold porting. You have it so easy just turn up the boost. What was it 850KW stock heads, cams omg wonder why I came to the darkside. Seriously no offence but in what circumstance would it ever be worth it $. CNC isn't the holy grail either.

What about this thread, I'm not trying to argue the fact. I think it may be the exhaust and standard cat stopping it from holding boost, but I'm not a 100% sure what's going on there though till it goes on the dyno. Thanks for reply's.

Yep, I'm planning on the tune, if I go back to stock boost control I will be up for actuator as well. I saw some posts on here about decent manual controllers getting to boost quicker? I can get 14psi in second gear at 50%+ throttle. Will the stock boost control be the same (sorry just a newb to turbo). Its strange Autotech tuned it like that...

Anyone, any thoughts on the manual boost control with good tune? Will the standard exhaust and cat be able to handle 14psi? I have logged it peeking at 14 and dropping off to 7. But it seems to have come good recently. No where to do the 3rd gear run but

Hmm, found these http://magnafilter.com.au/magnefine.html nothing about aeration though. I think I might be putting one of these on the ZF as well (good reviews online). Ryco has something similar for power steering only, apparently they are standard on BA V8? Still have to confirm what they are actually for from Ryco - https://www.autobarn.com.au/ryco-power-steering-filter-sp91604-z504

Ok finally did some work got the trans cooler in (davies craig with a fan in front of right wheel, works perfectly and the auto feels like its new again). Had it and the diff serviced, oil, plugs, everything else, modified airbox etc. Finally had a good look around the engine bay and through the XCAL and to my surprise its running a 14psi tune and a turbosmart manual boost control on what I think is the standard actuator. Hmm, must say its tuned very well, only ever heard it ping once on bad fuel. Its been doing 400km a week for quite awhile. So, I've settled on an outlaw hi flow cat converter (heard good things) some new coils and an upgraded fuel pump before the tune. So what is everyone thoughts on the manual boost control situation? I take it I will need a new actuator for 14,15,16 psi to go back to the boost control solenoid? Are there any benefits staying with the manual control It gets to max boost early.

Where can I get this filter? Cheers.

Ok, I might leave it for awhile then and replace some parts first. So, what is this 'magic' formula for another 50rwkw? I only want 300 max. Thanks.

What are the early signs or worrying signs of wear in the 6 speeds. Its has a new convertor. Yea, has the injectors done lol. Has a cooler, tune, injectors, K&N filter and 9 pound of boost from Autotech. Only needs cat, fuel pump, tune and 12 pound actuator for 300 I've been told. It's in QLD now though. Trying to keep it as stock as possible I.e. no 4 inch exhausts etc. Its the 07 model.

I have an BF mk2 turbo with 250rwkw atm is it worth chasing the extra 50? Engine has just over 200 000 and the auto is slightly worn. I drive about 400kms a week but I will need it to last for awhile. Fuel economy is still reasonable. Is it worth it? EDIT: lol I just did a search there is a couple of threads on it, pretty old though see what you guys think now. Thanks

You only need a good cat convertor (100 or 200 cell) for 300rwkw, rest of exhaust is fine.

I've heard removing the rear swaybar on a BF inproves handling is some ways, anyone tried this? My car is lowered I will be putting a whiteline front swaybar on it soon, just wondered what the best option is for the rear? Thanks

It was the instrument cluster if anyone ever has the same problem.

Changed the pump... still not working. The instrument cluster? Anyone see one do this. Works perfectly till it gets to half a tank

The actual sender unit only still has same pump module.

Hi all, this site has helped me immensely already. I have an issue with my fuel gauge on a BF11 XR6T. My gauge and dte work fine until I get down to under half a tank then the dte starts losing up to one hundred and two hundred km's in minutes, the gauge also follows the dte down to nearly an empty tank. However I still have that fuel or near left in the tank. I have replaced the fuel sender, same problem occurs. Where do I look next the electronics in pump and clip or the dash? Thanks