adams355

yea, I know I thought you could just replace the pipe anyway.

Don't need the intake, just wanna replace stock one. I only have a monza style intercooler on it. I can't find one at pwr, pw etc. I might of missed it.

Can you still buy these for bf? Thanks.

yea so, thinking 3.5" with 4" body, have the option for 5" body as well. Will the 5" round body fit in there alright...Might run 3.5" pipe off cat to centre muffler with merge as well... any thoughts...

Use the 5W-40 Nulon its better oil or better yet something else. I used 10W-40 Nulon for awhile until recently I changed the oil at 6000KM it had already started oxidizing badly (turning red) and turning to varnish its not a long life oil only the 5W-40 is. This is my experience with it anyway. The engine was flushed and clean before I put it in... 2c

Na, its bf11 will be getting tune already has one in 14psi, cooler, dekas, ts actuator (10psi) airbox mod etc

So, 3" to replace standard or worthwhile going 3.5, maybe with slightly modified cat back pipe to centre muffler. Thanks

It will get a bit of flow there. Its also a large cooler so should be right for temp. My cooler is half the size with a fan and only gets up in temp in traffic. Probably should of just went the large cooler lol.

Check out this thread lionel options for service

Yep, service first it will be running even hotter now with more power which will deteriorate the fluid quicker. They really do need a proper cooler without this the fluid temp will be reaching 100+ degrees C from the coolant exchanger. Any temp over 80 degrees C for transmission fluid decays its properties exponentially and permanently. I thought mine was on the way out, cooler and service, totally different transmission.

lol sorry buddy

Who is doing the tune? In Brisbane?

So, no mods needed for oil that's good, great engine these. Looks like its time to go to lakeside. Lucky enough to have it just around the corner.

Apparently some of the turbo's have baffled sumps, not sure how good they be out of the factory. Always room for improvement and more oil.

Baffled sump, oil pressure gauge minimum. Depending what engine, modification to oil pump, pick up and oil system (not sure how for the barra someone will know). What weight oil were u using?

I was looking at this one from same store. Yes, no, maybe. I had the GSS340 in the big pod but it would hesitate under hard throttle at less than a 1/4 tank of fuel. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/FALCON-BA-BF-XR6-TURBO-F6-FPV-SNIPER-320-LPH-E85-98-PERFORMANCE-FUEL-PUMP-ASSEM/292332706217?hash=item44106319a9:g:Ek4AAOSwoR9aDN-s

If you are going to use the penrite make sure its definitely the ATF BMV (Full Syn). https://www.penriteoil.com.au/products/atf-bmv-full-syn

Aftermarket parts are usually pretty good these days. Yep, best to change filter and fluid at the same time. There are a few members on here that have done it themselves just make sure temp is right for fluid when filling (there is a proper procedure) Not sure on the penrite, I have seen that fluid and it is approved for ZF, just not sure how many have used it. I have never done a full flush, just dump and fill. There are a few on here that have though and haven't had any problems. I'm don't know the full flush procedure maybe someone will pipe in.

You can buy this (below) and get some gulf western SYN-TS 20L for around a $150 if you search around distributors. Then just pay a transmission place to do it and you supply parts. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ford-non-genuine-ZF-6HP26-6-Spd-Automatic-Trans-Steel-Sump-pan-Conversion-kit-/191480556178

Do it on street tyres unless it be a strip queen

Gulf Western SYN-TS x 2 If you look around you can get 20 ltrs for around $150

How does it not have external air? Mine is in front of the wheel with no fog light. Anyway I must be wrong.

Why though, if its further forward where will the exhaust air exit. You will definitely have to modify inner then also will be more likely to be damaged if not running fog light. Also, that's the most practical place for it in regards to solid fit up. Makes sense to push not pull in that area. Though many pull...

You can't run the fan that way unless you take wheel arch inner out. You still get airflow the fan isn't running all the time. Plenty of airflow especially if you are not running the fog light.

I think so, that's where mine is. It will sit around 55-65 degree on open road but once it hits traffic or drive hard for period of time, temp will go up. I have the davies craig one with a digital temp selector its set at 79 degrees, it never goes over watching torque app. I put silicon reducer in the fog light hole 5" to 4" gets a good airflow then but probably doesn't need it, but the fog lights look like a frog to me so they had to go. Also, you can cut or bend up the front wheel arch trim or whatever its called to get some exit flow going. My fan pushes through from front.