DavoWA

Common issue, particularly after a longish run. All cars generate a bit of "oil", however it is only some raw fuel being added to the sump when the car is being run around town. When you take the car on a decent run, the oil gets hot enough to vaporise the fuel off, and the oil level goes down pretty quickly. Just top the car up and everything's fine. Most cars burn some oil, particularly the lower viscosity ones. I suggest that you change back to a 15w/40 or 15w/50 product of your choice because the 10w/30 is a bit light for our engines, either N/A or "T".

One day Cams licence is about $30. The October 5th is definitely ON, but I won't be at this one. You can still go and have a look, but the next one should be November 9th. I will be at the November one. How about making it a "meet"?

Hoooooo weeeee!!!!!!!!!! Someone's let the dog off the chain now. (Ken??) Since we're talking about REAL stuff here, let's clarify a point or two. The mighty badge that is FORD :o is known as the BLUE oval, not the Mercury Silver oval, nor the Acid Rush oval, nor any other colour oval. So my theory is that since Ford is the BLUE oval, the only true colour to have is BLUEprint. Hence we should be known as "Team TRUE BLUE", :o being the only colour to approximate the REAL sense of the maker. Any better ideas out there??

Thanks to Teryy for the moral support last Sunday. The "T" ended up 18th out of 39 cars, but would have been 10th on real times if not for a couple of minor indiscretions by self. Hosed 7 out of 8 Porsches, 4 out of 6 WRX's and a few others as well. Some VERY FAST rice burners were quicker, but put 1200kg against 1800kg (with me in the car :lol: ) and similar horsepower, and the light one wins. I can confirm the effectiveness of the traction control. ON = SLOW - too much power being dragged out OFF = HEAPS FUN, but be careful and it is QUICK Next one is October 5th, and maybe a long course session, so suits the "T" even better Come on down and have a play guys - you can get a one day Cams licence on the day if you haven't got one.

Dead right Ante, the 15w/40 is partly to do with engine build, but also to get reasonable fuel figures as per AS 2977? (correct number?). One of my colleagues who deals with factory guys at times, says that the engines will prefer slightly heavier products, but don't go 20w type products because they are generally only mineral products and also don't have the same performance ratings as the 10w's or synthetics. Most 15w/40 meeting the nominated Ford specs will perform well for most people. The lower SAE "W" number generally means lighter viscosity oils, but not always. The chart above didn't come out right when I posted it, but the "W" number is ONLY to do with cold cranking viscosity (-5 to -30 degrees numbers), not viscosity at normal cold start temperatures. The lower viscosity products generally don't allow the lifters to pump up quickly enough, hence the rattle, but they WILL circulate through the engine faster when it is cold. The higher viscosity products will take a miniscule amount more time to separate the moving bits, particularly cam lobes and cam bearings. This is where the bulk of the serious wear happens. Unless of course you stand on the loud pedal when the engine first fires up, then your big ends get a hammering as well.

Point No. 1, Castrol DO make a 10w/30, but it is only for the trade maket like car dealerships and workshops, not the retail market, hence you won't see it on teh website. This is primarily due to the "fuel efficiency" comments in the “Customer Assistance, Warranty And Service Guide BA Series”, and the need for dealerships to use this type of product for the recommendations regarding fuel efficiency. Mobil, Shell, BP and so on also make products for these markets. Yes, FPV use Castrol in the factory, but not the normal Ford range. There are a few other threads relating to this subject but I haven't looked up how to put the links in yet. (So much for being technical):lol:

Firstly, the viscosity classifications are best described as follows: SAE has established that twelve viscosity grades are suitable for engine lubricating oils. The physical requirements for these viscosity grades are described in SAE J300, which is intended for use by engine manufacturers in determining engine oil viscosity grades suitable for use in their engines. This is a chart indicating the actual viscosities for each grade. The "XXw" number refers to the cold temperature pumpability of the oil and the second number refers to the viscosity range of the oil at 100 degrees Celcius. (cP=centipoise and cSt=centistokes - both measurements of viscosity) SAE Viscosity Grade Low Temperature Viscosities High-Temperature Visc Cranking (cP), Pumping(cP) Low Shear max at temp max at temp Rate Kinematic °C °C (cSt) min max 0W 3250 at -30 60,000 at -40 3.8 — 5W 3500 at -25 60,000 at -35 3.8 — 10W 3500 at -20 60,000 at -30 4.1 — 15W 3500 at -15 60,000 at -25 5.6 — 20W 4500 at -10 60,000 at -20 5.6 — 25W 6000 at -5 60,000 at -15 9.3 — 20 — — 5.6 <9.3 30 — — 9.3 <12.5 40 — — 12.5 <16.3 50 — — 16.3 <21.9 60 — — 21.9 <26.1 You can see the differences in the cold cranking temperatures for the various grades under the "Low Temperature Viscosities" heading, and also the different viscosity ranges under the "High Temperature Viscosities" heading. Ford factory fill product is not synthetic. It is a 15w/40 mineral product. Perfectly OK for the job, but not as good a performance as most synthetics. Mobil 1 0w/40 is OK for the application also. It is less viscous at 40 degrees C than the 15w/40, but very close to the same viscosity at 100 degrees C due to the higher viscosity index, being a synthetic. This will not affect the warranty as the oil manufacturers (mostly) recommend products that they know will perform in the required application. FPV are recommending a 0w/40 for some of their vehicles. No comment on the 3rd point due to the fact that there are number of choices available that will perform very well. (I work for another manufacturer, as a technical manager) The handbook recommends a 15w/40 API SJ/CF or better, with the recommendation for SAE 15w/40 being only for optimum fuel efficiency. It also states to NOT use just API SJ or CF, but the rating must have both. It also recommends against the superceded specifications of API SH, SG, SF and earlier. These products will not perform as well as API SJ or SL. Provided you use a quality API SJ or SL, and preferably with an ACEA A3 and B3 rating as well, you will have no issues with warranty. Synthetics will usually perform much better than mineral oils, but whether or not you will realise the additional benefits for the money you pay, only you can decide. If anyone has any other questions, just post them and I will try to answer them. I will not comment on any individual product being better or worse than another, but I will point out the various specifications if necessary and hopefully describe the benefits, or otherwise, of them.

Rob, Whilst XT 10w/30 is fine as a product, it is not what is recommended for these vehicles. It is a straight mineral oil, designed for engines requiring low viscosity oils, including the AU and C***dore engines. The product won't do you any damage, but the recommendation is for a 15w/40, and I use a synthetic 10w/60 myself, but I feel that the 10w/30 may be a bit to light for these engines. Time will tell, but I would suggest that you change back to a 15w/40 or better next change. Just check your oil consumption to make sure you're not using too much.

OK, OK.....WA guys It's finally happening............the Belmont Park Racecourse carpark autokhana. It is on this coming Sunday, the 14th and my "T" will be running in the arvo, after 12 noon. The WRX and Porsche clubs are sending some " cannon fodder" :D (or should that be XR6T fodder ) So I need some moral (not athletic, Silver) support, so come and have a look and see if you might like to have a go yourselves sometime. See you there

Eagerly awaiting the avatar

Chris, as a technical manager for a lubricants manufacturer that has been trying to provide "unbranded" advice and remain anonymous so that there is no perception of blatant advertising, think it would be a bloody good idea. No more trying to walk on eggshells.

About 18 seconds so I guess there's some consolation. The first one I saw was a direct top down shot of Isaac Hayes' head - at least that's my story. :lol:

Could well look into that, but still don't really feel like swapping all the gear over. Wonder if a couple of quiet laps at the end of the day might be possible....... :idea:

I'd seriously like to do a few laps just to see what the car will do, but I'm not prepared to swap the extinguishers form the Jag into the Falcon just yet. The other thing is that $140 is a bit steep for just a few laps. I don't want to do a whole day of "playing", partly because the car hasn't had the brakes and suspension set up for doing it. I spent a few quid on the Jag for that purpose, but at this stage, I don't want to spend the bucks on the XR for what will probably be a one off. :( The 9th of November definitely looks OK, and don't forget to come and have a look at the Autokhana on the 14th of September. You need the Cams licence if you want to enter, but not the fire extinguishers. The 2 clubs going to this meeting are the Porsche club and WRX club, so if you want to see how a real car goes, come on down!

Correct. September 21st is the last Sunday street meet. It goes to the Wednesday nights in October sometime. There is a street meet/test and tune on the 28th, but only for ANDRA licence holders.

Let's just arrange our own deal and nominate a date to enter the street meet. One day in late September or early October is probably OK for me. As much as I enjoy "playing", you can have too much of a good thing. There's still other stuff to do that needs to be done.

STOP PRESS!! The autokhana at the Belmont Park racecourse carpark is ON 14th September, both morning and afternoon sessions. 2 car clubs have nominated the event as a club event, so the numbers will be there. I will definitely be running, probably in the afternoon session. :D Come and have a look, or if you want to have a run, you can enter on the day and also get a 1 day Cams licence for the event. Check out here for info www.actionalarms.com.au/Motorsport/General/MaxAuto%20&%20Pro-Max.pdf and also here www.actionalarms.com.au/Motorsport/ProMax/Pro-Max%20Challenge%20Cup%20-%20Introduction.pdf Good fun and also a way of assessing manual vs auto potential. I'll come up in the arvo and have a look. I might just have my helmet in teh car with me, and my Cams licence, just in case How much $$$ is it likely to be?

Is some of this in an 80 kmh zone? Hope it's 110. I'll be in, say 14th September?

Well, whatever is on, I'll have a look. What is involved in getting into the HSV session? Helmet, Cams licence, money? Keep us posted.

That could be the transmission cooler if you ordered the car with a towbar. I use Castrol Formula R 10w/60.

All of the above are valid comments and questions. In general, you shouldn't need an oil cooler unless you are either doing some performance work or towing on a regular basis. Two things happen to oil when it gets hot, and by hot I mean over about 100 degrees C for extended periods of time. Firstly the viscosity ("thickness") will reduce, meaning that the oil will "thin out". Oil viscosity is a linear progression directly proportional to temperature. The hotter the fluid, the lower the viscosity, or "thinner" the oil becomes. Secondly, if the oil becomes too hot for an extended period of time, then it will oxidise, or "cook", turning black and then getting thicker or more viscous. The oil gets thicker because the heat causes a chemical reaction leading to the addition of more oxygen atoms, which then promotes even more oxidation, and so on. For every 10 degree C rise in oil temperature, the rate of oxidation doubles, so persistent hard driving or towing will increase the rate of oxidation. Too low an oil temperature will also lead to sludge formation by not allowing the contaminants like fuel and condensation to "boil off", and this will lead to more rapid chemical degradation of the oil. This is why most manufacturers recommend shorter oil drain intervals if you are driving the vehicle harder, or towing, including a lot of stop-start short trips, and also recommend synthetics for longer oil drain intervals. In the case of the BA, Ford have also increased the size of the sump so that you can get the 15000km oil drain interval with reasonable quality mineral oils. This is also why most higher performance vehicles also recommend synthetic oils, because they resist oxidation far better than mineral oils. All "normal" engine oils of reasonable quality have oxidation inhibitors in them, and these will generally allow the standard oil drain intervals to be safely achieved, even with the occasional towing job or high speed run. If you fail to change the oil at a suitable time, you will find that the engine will start to produce "sludge" and "varnish", and these will increase wear rates significantly and also cause things like sticking lifters, sticking rings and so on. An oil temperature of between 80 and 95 degrees for general operation should be fine. The oil temperatures under the piston crown can occasionally reach 300 degrees quite easily, however the natural cooling provided by the oil circulation around the block and sump will keep the bulk oil temperature at the desired level until you push it.

Best tried when absolutely p!ssed :lol: Q. If it takes a poxed poodle 3 weeks to bumscuttle a bas*ard cat with a glass eye, how long would it take a Paradise Duck eating a yard and a half of India rubber tubing to sh1t out a gross of French Letters. A. About as long as it takes to stuff a pound of melted butter up a wildcats ar5e with a wet noodle.

Agree. If you need more than 240 kmh, you one sick puppy :D

I just hope that the power war allows a little bit of "factory" improvement. Which other cars can dial up as much "mumbo" with a change to the computer and boost level.

Don't worry PSXR6, you picked EXACTLY the RIGHT colour :o