Steveor

Well I've sorted the torque steer problem and thought I should share it in case anyone else gets the same issue. I just had the sh*tty stock lsd replaced with a truetrack as well as bearings and new crown and pinion set. During the replacement the guys at the driveline shop noticed the axle tube was moving in and out of the pumpkin (centre housing) and there had been an oil leak around the tube fitting. I told them I had previously noticed a couple of holes around the point where the axle tube fits into the housing. It was at this point that I realised what the holes were...the factory plug welds used to retain the axle tube in the centre housing had broken and completely fallen out. There was nothing holding the drivers side axle tube into the housing other than the spring mounts. Obviously everything was flexing under torque causing the tube to float and misalign the rear which led to the torque steer problem. I collected the bare housing and tubes and took them to my work (fab shop) and cleaned and prepped the holes and dropped in 3 new plug welds with decent penetration this time, unlike the sh*t job the factory did, took it back to the driveline shop, had the new bearings and crown and pinion fitted along with the truetrack LSD and HOLY sh*t!!! Pulls hard and straight and lights both rears up like it should and doesn't sound like I'm dragging some poor dog to death under my car every time I make a tight turn. I am now one happy camper.

Thanks for your help. I'll keep you informed when I figure out what it is

Well I've smashed that dirty little search bar like the cheap ho that it is.... To no avail. Can't seem to find any matches no matter how I describe it. I'm getting a full diff rebuild in 2 weeks, new bearings, crown and pinion and a Harrop truetrack LSD. I'm waiting to see if that makes any difference but I'm not overly optimistic that it will. I've had a quick look at the axle mounts and couldn't see anything obvious but I might have to investigate further, maybe measure wheel centre distance front to rear.

My FG MKII Ute has developed a bizarre and horrible habit of torque steering to the right slightly when accelerating hard under boost and lurching back again when I lift of the throttle. I initially thought maybe the axle housing mounts may have shifted causing misalignment of the rear end but now I'm not so sure. It does it while I'm holding the wheel dead straight and doesn't quite come all the way back when I lift off. Anyone else experienced this problem?

Any suggestions? Can't find anything I like that has the right offset.

Apologies if this has been asked a million times already but I'm in a hurry and need to order rims ASAP so don't have time to look for the answer. Has anyone fitted 18x10 with 22mm offset rears to stock suspension FG MK2 XR6T Ute? Will they fit? Thanks in advance for any answers

The rears look good. Can't get my head around the drift fronts.... Looks too much like a light truck rim.

Mine does the same....light squeal noise when turning with fair amount of lock at low speed. I've been thinking axle bearings. Wouldn't a bent axle give the same noise all the time?

Yeah wouldn't mind picking up some GTP seats if I could get hold of them for the right money. Mind you, the difference in price between my 2012 XR6T and your Clubby would allow me to have some seats hand crafted from the scr*tum skin of bengalese tigers, fur left on of course

Ha yes it does. In spite of all this grumbling all I have to do is come out of a certain large roundabout near me, which then proceeds up a small crest and onto a straight in a non urban area, with the fun control button off, and feed it to the big black beast and I forget all the sh*tty bits of my coon and nearly split my head in half with a monster grin. And seeing as how it's on my way to work, traffic permitting, I get to do it every day

I agree seating position is a bit on the high side but it's not terrible, and I'm 6ft. Steering wheel is ok, I can see instrument cluster and plenty of clearance getting in and out of the car. Leather seats are pretty ordinary, virtually no bolster and too soft. Given that you pay a premium for the turbo and it's a significant performance increase they should have put better seats in the XR6T. Cornering hard, with no bloody drivers foot rest, is a bit like trying to hang on to that big spinning disc thing in Coney Island at Luna Park.

Ahhh different strokes for different folks. IMO all wheel drive is no fun on public roads. Too grippy which means pushing them to stupid extremes to have a bit of fun. If you're talking hillclimb, rally or club events then sure they're a lot of fun. Then there's the aggot squash factor.... Falcons and Commodores were made for typical Aussie families and as such there is decent room for comfortable driving. My son has a 06 WRX and at 6ft tall I find I have to pick my nuts up and hold them out of the way just to sit in the bloody thing?. Give me a rear wheel drive dinosaur any day cos they usually come with big arse amounts of torque so a bit of sideways action can be achieved without running the risk of vapourising yourself and a power pole if you get it wrong. And remember.... If it weren't for a meteor T Rex would be munching on you as a morning snack

K31th makes a valid point re government sponsorship being unfairly biased towards Expensive Daewoo but it doesn't take development funding to manufacture seats that don't squeak, a dash that doesn't have more rattles than a jar full of nuts and so much drivetrain/road noise coming through the rear wall of the cabin that I've gotta constantly check there isn't a hole behind my seat. After all my XC, AU and BA never had these issues. I've argued with my Expensive Daewoo loving friends for years that the Falcon is the only true Aussie designed car, not a variant of an Opel body with a yank motor but a true local with arguably one of the best 6 cylinder engines in the world, designed and built here so it's disappointing that they've dropped the ball so much in the end. I don't care if the styling is a bit dated or it doesn't have the latest in cabin electronics but surely fundamentals like seat height, squeaky seats, road/drive train noise and rattly dash point to the head of design/engineering either being a deaf dwarf or an imbecile. Oh well...... I'd still rather walk than drive a Commodore ?

Thanks for the comparison Ozywalker. I'll check out the 255 idea for the fronts, just dont want too much excess tyre wall roll or the uterus will feel like its driving in a bowl of custard. Been a Ford man all of my 53 yrs and can't believe how bloody hard Ford made it for us compared to the HSV lot. I love the power of the turbo 6 with the 6 speed manual and the ute handles pretty good even if it does have leaf spring rear but the lack of attention to detail and the squeaky seats and cabin rattles are appaling for a 4 yr old car with 50k on it and probably indicative of why they went tits up in the end. Having said all that, it would still smash my old 302 top loader XC ute

Hi All No one seems to have much love for steel wheels and I understand the weight issue but quite frankly the whole 20 inch alloy look just doesn't work for me and the roads around where I live aren't that great, so much so that the 20 inch KMC rims that were on my FG MK2 XR6T when I bought it seem to crack as soon as they're within 3 metres of any kind of pothole. I've had all 4 wheels repaired in the 5 months that I've owned my car so it's time to change tact and find something a bit more durable. I should also note that we repair damaged alloys at my work and I've seen everything from Simmons, Speedy, ROH, FPV, HSV even OEM euro rims buckled and cracked so it seems nothing is immune. So my question is....has anybody tried Dynamic Drift Steel wheels and if so how was the fitment? IMO they look ok even if they're only 17" and available in 17 x 9 with 30mm offset (front) and 17 x 10 with 35mm offset. Sounds a bit Dukes Of Hazard if I put 245/45's front and maybe 295/45 rears? Any feedback from you gurus would be good.