Sladdo

Hey guys thanks for the welcome. Yes I have read that about the 5sp box's. So far so good with mine. I'm running CASTROL SYNTRANS Z LONG LIFE 75W-80 in it which has defiantly improved the gearshifts compared to whatever oil was in it when I bought it. But yeah if/when it breaks, I'll defiantly upgrade. I will upload pics asap.

Yeah my CD player doesn't work at all. Who bothers with CD's these days haha. Would be nice to have it repaired but I'd rather spend $1000 on something else.

Gday. Hopefully posting in the right place. My names Nathan. I own an 03' BA XR6 Turbo sedan 5sp manual with 143km. Mercury silver with leather/suede interior, premium sound etc. I live on the Gold Coast & have worked for Ford as a mechanic for the last 8 years. Engine/box: Pretty much stock with the exception of a K&N filter & a centre muffler delete. Alloy overflow bottle. Aeroflow fuel pump. Malwood clutch with alloy throw out bearing with braided slave cyl bleed line. Suspension : SL Kingsprings up front, SSL in the rear with KYB shocks all round. Big Whiteline front & rear sway bars. Slotted & drilled rotors with Bendix Ultimate pads. SuperPro diff bushes. SuperPro blade arm bushes. Fresh genuine Ford lower/upper outters etc. Freshend up LSD with 3.46 gears. Inside: Not overly special. All globes are LED. 18% tint. Outside: Not really worth mentioning. Paint is pretty average. LED number plate globes & parkers. H.O.D 90/100w globes. Future plans are now that Ive got everything underneath it up to scratch, to start working on the motor. Next part ill most likely buy will be a Powerbond underdrive kit as my belt & tentioner are getting a lil sad.

How long did you leave the battery disconnected for?

Remove your drivebelt then crank it over & try again. If noise still persists, id be checking for a wicked exhaust leak around the manifold/turbo (intake & exhaust bolts meant to be re-torqued every service!). If that's all ok & no leaks, id be looking inside the turbo.

Make sure your key is fully returning to the ON position after you crank it. Seen on numerous worn ignition switches where they dont return fully & your car still thinks you're in the 'crank' position however its returned just enough to disengauge the starter.

Remove the diff or fuel tank? Just to clarify, you meaning the little arm with the rose joint at either end, that runs parallel to the lower control arm? Is it your inner or outter bush that's no good?