Oracle1

I agree caliper needs to be bigger and that is why I am trying to find out how hard it is to source the PBR caliper that Ford was using on the 325 mm rotor Awesome forum BTW K31th

So to be clear I want go with 325mm Dba slotted rotors, my original calipers with a seal kit put through them with the new bracket to fit the larger rotor and Bendix premium pads, I think that will be a massive improvement on what I have now?

Hi All, I have read through the brake threads and studied the conversions. The 355 mm rotors and Brembos are very nice but a little hard to justify price on a BA street/work ute. My brakes are a total rebuild so the 300mm standard diameter rotor with slots seems a little pointless so I have arrived at what I think is the middle ground. 325 mm DBA slotted rotors with either my original calipers with new seals and the bracket kit or PBR Calipers Ford genuine or the variants I have seen. Can anyone comment on the differences on the two caliper choices?

800 for the whole car factory gas canopy and mags, recond good auto 480,000 km motor is very good ex freight company vehicle this is the real donor car, the other car is going to be my daily and yes I do like those FG rims more than the ones I have lololol I couldnt help it

Progress Update They have begun to multiply.......

So have we heard anything on the health of the car? That's a far more valuable life to lose.

Same in Qld in the past I have been booked in a HZ ute many many years ago for having a towball obscure the plate. All factory too...

no definitely not, I like LPG. but I am impressed with its fuel economy on the petrol, mind you its running 98 at 1.50 per litre. I also like the ability to run dual fuel, its mighty hard to fix if one should run out of LPG. I just went thru your divorce thread, how is your ute running? I am starting my research on gas next week and I found one of my old gas converters that I am going to put a seal kit thru. It will go on the bottle regardless, I do way too many km to run unleaded. I am just starting to read thru the turbo section of the forum to start working out turbo and manifold choices

Did 500klm on the highway today running around and found out some of her bad habits will start the real detail tomorrow averaged about 8.3 l/100 on the open highway with aircon on

This thing has been loved I could tell the moment I saw the photos on the net went straight down to Bris and bought it. No dints in the cab at all mostly original paint with a few little touches. Never been hit in the front (hard) clean underneath I am cheerin the tub is very straight, two dints maybe. Hadn't thought of making a trailer that a good idea cause as far as I can see the tub is worth sh*t...... I am happy and I think the Km's are legit I have seen enough sh*tbox in my time thanks all for help let the games begin

This is a different car 2004 BA MKII XLS 115,000 klm Petrol 4 speed auto new pads on the front 4 tyres so so prolly 40% 12 months extended warranty which is meaningless only a tiny bit of guttter rash on the front left otherwise neat as a pin nice interior drives really nice handles like a bucket of sh*t but that is to be expected. looks like it has bigger springs all round. I like the way it goes it has some grunt. Overall its nice car I am impressed with the design, tragic Ford stoppen manufacturing. 12mnths rego $7500

Well gentlemen look what the cat dragged in, Apologies for poor quality pics more to follow in daylight

look at the specs for the torque on the gas motors https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Barra_engine the gas motors are only making slightly under the petrol torque figure with less horsepower of course. This is why I am interested in LPG turbo, not for hp but for torque. Notice the increases for the eco lpi motor. The car I am looking at has an old fashioned taxi mixer style setup which I am assuming is the first gen. If this is the case then it is dead set easy to put a big mixer on and run the metering on positive pressure with fan.

Copy that I don't need to go that far and he makes a valid point about engines that close to the edge. I would be more than happy with 300kw at the flywheel. Just reading through @Rab thread now. Also looking at the eco lpi specs. Saw the TR6060 today and I am chasing info from Mal Wood.

Hi all and thanks for the advice, I am currently sniffing around a 2008 Falcon Cab Chassis R6 FG Auto White in color (my fav) factory mags very nice looking car with tinted windows one owner 140000 km for 10 grand. Can anyone tell me the if the R6 options may have included the heavier suspension. Any other nice bits that come with R6 lol? I am sure he said to me it did have heavy suspension. Re: Questions on transmission definitely 6 Speed Manual I like the idea of a 6 speed auto but it seems overly complex and expensive for my taste in that area. A six speed manual would be awesome but for towing in some instances the auto would be nicer. I much prefer a manual box overall though. Studying up on the T56 now. How do they differ in the front suspension, do they share the same front end? Would love to talk to Matt about what he has tried. I have found a nice FG ute already set up with exclusive gas but minus the hairdryer. Its about the body my friend and a good body is hard to find. Swapping hard bits in and out is easy, a very nice paint job not so easy. Respect what your saying re feeding a turbine but I have a little experience in this area I am an aircraft mechanic with a background in turbo piston twins and PT6 gas turbine. This machine is not about outright power. That is too easy anybody can make power, but you must also do it with longevity and efficiency. I am aiming for around 250-280 kw at the flywheel on gas and would be more than happy with these numbers. I am really looking for driveability and torque. I am getting old crew I am a bit of a fossil. The main aim of the game is an efficient road going ute that I can move myself about in cheaply. LPG has some definite advantages among them a high octane rating meaning I can compress it more in a stock engine, its a little help with the usual higher compression ratio in N/A engines. LPG is a very clean fuel also. This is why I was wondering if anyone had some info on how the exclusive gas engines differed, if they had bumped up the compression to suit gas and hardened the valves. This is the challenge for me. If it all goes bad there are still reliable diaphragm mixers that will feed an engine very efficiently if it tends to sit at one RPM like mine do. Also a good mate of mine is a gas fitter so I have a signature and he trusts my work. Re supercharging yes it produces good numbers no doubt about it (have studied this kit yesterday) but it draws shaft horsepower from the crankshaft unlike a turbo which scavenges energy from the heat of expanding exhaust gases. I want thermal efficiency up with higher compression from turbo and gas, intercooler, coolant effect of liquid gas expansion in the inlet tubes. Hell I may cut loose with some water meth under hi boost ( I jest of course )

Hi all new member looking for advice on building a One Tonner LPG turbo just about to go out and buy a either an FG or BF ute would appreciate thoughts posted and exact description in the ute section cheers

Hi all, thanks in advance for any and all help. I have done a lot of reading in the past few days of various conversion threads trying to find out as much info as possible re the differences between the BF and the FG models. Call me crazy but at 45 I am having a little bit of a mid life crisis and I want a fast ute, again. I've built a few fast cars but of late most of my time has been spent in late model turbo diesels and I haven't bothered to keep up with the models and what part fits what. I have owned and run falcon sixes and eights but not for many years. I have also done some unusual conversions so I have some experience and I can also paint. I am looking around ATM at BF and FG utes and I was hoping to ask the differences between the two and what to watch out for in features with regard to the following criteria. This is a basic outline of what I want to achieve as the end product, 1. Max price for donor car 12000 before mods and a One Tonner Cab Chassis with alloy tray approx 2005 - 2010. 2. The car will be LPG. 3. Will try and get as much life out of a four speed auto as I can and may even stay with a modified 4 speed auto as a final gear box but would actively seek a six speed conversion if it can be done. (I know how to nurse machinery my machines die prolonged slow deaths) 4. Would like to turbo it, to take advantage of LPG high octane ratio (liquid) looking for torque and fuel economy (did dedicated LPG engines have higher comp ratios, can ECU be remapped?). 5. Have read the threads about FG being much nicer to drive than BF but go fast gear being easier to get for the BF. I am getting older and I would like a bit more refinement which is why I would possibly put up with a few more difficulties with converting the FG to go fast gear. BUT does it make any difference in the One Tonners? 6. How have the bodies of the FG and BF aged over time with regards interior build rattles etc and overall structural integrity? 7. Any other catches or gotchas that come to mind. I say in advance that I have read so many times just go out and buy X instead. Over the years I have scrounged and overhauled and I understand exactly how painful it is to do a build and can understand this argument. But in this case I am looking to build something unique and so buying X instead really doesn't help me. Besides that I like being the last person to put something back together and I get to choose the exact part I want. The models mentioned previous are at a stage in the life cycle that parts are now cheap and I may buy wrecks for parts if I have to. your thoughts people?