Dream Machines

It depends where you go Most shops - cut and polish, hand wax silicone rich industrial products used on interior and engine bay What I do - from 250 to 1500 (limos mainly from 1200 +) Paint correction - three step machine polish so every mark is removed. Paint correction, enhancement and protection - four to twelve step deep clean, correction, shine enhancement and protective coating Orange peel reduction - permanent burial without abrasives - 5 to 50% buried in most cases Exterior unpainted plastic/rubber/urethane/resin trim moldings machine polishes with glass and acrylic based polish and protection system - non abrasive. results are permanent Deep cleaning, softening and conditioning of vinyl and leather - non greasy. dry to touch. soaks in Mag wheels clayed, polished, sealed Wheel arch cleaning, blackening Glass polishing and rain repellant coatings GLARE product treatments time - 8 to 60 hours from the basic service to the best

the old man sure knows his stuff. what brand tyre shine did he put on? The main concern with tyre shine on walls is it discolours them this however can be fixed

That is one aspect people do not understand. True professional detailing and enthusiast detailing as well, takes a lot of time Myself and colleague's in the UK and USA spend up to five days on some cars that's what it can take to get a concourse show car finish from factory paint Involves deep cleaning to bring the colour back to the paint, lifting up the metal flake to the surface, paint correction (all marks removed), enhancement to increase wetness, depth and clarity Plus interior, exterior trim polishing and more

Here are the clay bar makes I have and the differences Clay Magic/3M - blue or red Red is heavier grade and will marr dark colours Blue may leave fine marrine if paint has iron filings on it Contains soap and perfumes thus needs a soapy lubricant for it to work best Can start leaving bits on your hands once it is soaked with lubricant a few times Bilt Hamber - UK made bar with no soap or perfumes the soft bar is more kneadable and as effective as the 3M blue bar and half the price water or quick detail spray can be used with it and will be easier to wipe off residue trick - cut the bar in half a few times and re knead to reveal the middle layer that has not been used yet microwave a bar for 20 seconds (MAXIMUM) to soften it if it becomes difficult to knead

I was curious to see how Damian would do with the Car wash scene

Victoria - Eurogloss prestige, Final Inspection are just two of the finest over there Make sure the detailer you choose if not one of these two, doesn't leave buff marks on it

Its a damn good but expensive tar and sap remover that's it

Anything that is water based, not solvent based and that is silicone free, will be fine The water based ones will be usually a matte or satin finish and the solvent/silicone based will be glossy The solvent dry rots rubber and vinyl and can affect plastics over time My personal favourite is Driven to Perfection VRL, a creamy water based product that absorbs into leather, vinyl and rubber and that does not leave any residue to wipe off Wipe on, walk away For best results always clean your interior dash, console, door skins and seats with a non acidic, PH neutral or low alkaline silicone/solvent free cleaner Check meguiars MSDS sheets on their website if you want to know which ones are solvent and silicone free Most stuff is fine, just keep clear of some high gloss products (silicone-solvents) that are not dry to the touch and that attract dust The cleaner I use every day at my shop is this one (gallons of course) http://www.autoprodetailproducts.com/product/Soft

So far I've never used nulon, mostly motul (600 C dot 5.1 brake fluid), Redline (water wetter, SI 1) and Fuchs 10 W 40 fully synthetic the car has definately improved alot since putting those fluids in To stop the whine in my Tickford AU XR, I put redline 85W250 heavy shockproof diff oil in the car might cause drag and lower accelleration pickup but it worked

Wax eraser is the product that will remove polish from the grains of textured trims

Aussie Gold Showroom sealer glaze spray for wheels is my choice spray on, leave to dry and cure on the wheels - done no more brake dust build up Killer on paint and interiors too I love it As for tyres - dunno. have tested a tonne but don't like any of them

yes indeedy. I highly recommend Zaino, GLARE, Toughseal and any sealants/waxes from wax it From other thread, The trims around the windows and the wiper arms- glare micro finish and pro polish the windscreen cowling - G Techniq C1 - see here Please note: this was a sample from G Techniq UK, I do not work for them or sell it http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S28-XvUYdYE

The trims around the windows and the wiper armns- glare micro finish and pro polish the windscreen cowling - G Techniq C1 - see here Please note: this was a sample from G Techniq UK, I do not work for them or sell it http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S28-XvUYdYE

Zaino is definately one of the better amino functional resin based sealant systems, though I've been told that it has problems with water spotting on occasions Eight months is around about the durability time that some friends have indicated I am about to test Z8 against Aussie Gold Showroom sealer glaze spray, Prima Slick, Duragloss 923 and Driven Quick spray concentrate I still believe that prepping the paint with clay bar, detox (deep cleaner that brings natural colour back and reverses porousness and oxidation) without abrasives and then either Glare or Menzerna polishes before using Zaino, is more beneficial as you will have a water like slick feeling paint finish with perfect mirror image reflections even before the Zaino will be applied and that should enrich the paint more But for those who won't spend or don't have the time to do all that, Zaino is fantastic For the market it was made for, which are enthusiasts who want to aply a few products and get a great shine, it is great. I don't use it as I am more into using GLARE non abrasive systems to bury orange peel and provide the shine or a combo of Menzerna and other polishes to get as close as possible to new paint job and show car perfect finish before any sealant goes on the car. Sealant and wax are just the icing on the cake, I am a big fan of the Glare finish line. The new Advanced is an amazing sealant and all surface gloss enhancer

Holy cow, that ain't good Have you been washing the car with a high pressure washer or gun at a self serve commercial car wash place like Pro wash They usually run at 1100 psi and at that pressure, the paint can be damaged if the water is sprayed at the paint from within a few feet If that's not the case and you have been hand washing it then it is definately a ford australia factory caused problem Geez it looks thin