REI600

UPDATE -- Went over a bump and now the passanger side low beam is shining BRIGHT 😄 Good thing -- It is currently getting power and I didnt mess up the plug replacement. Bad thing -- That'll make it damn hard to fine the looseness in the circuit 😄 Anyone know where there are joins/connections I can manually check to see how they look?? A multi wont do squat to help while it actually works 😄

Sorry that it took nearly 3 years 😄 The ute will actually be for sale in the coming months as I will be moving to live in Japan. (^_^) A few things for sort out to maker her all shiny again.

Yeah, my mind was heading in that direction too. Actual fault instead of a strange glitch. Cheers 😄

I have no clue what there were used/installed for. My guess is it was something audio/video... maybe someone had a sub and amp in there at one stage...?? I ripped them out and threw in the bin. They were not connected to anything at either end.

Hey Guys and Gals, Been a long time since I was on this website since before tonight... A lot of sh*t has happened since then 😄 Right now though, I am looking to solve an issue that I am having with the ute. I have been having an issue with the passanger side low beam (only) not working. A little time ago, I replaced the bulbs with 55/60 blue and the low beam worked (from memory) but the plug on that side, was partly melted -=- Apparently due to someone using too high a wattage bulb (or so I read). Given my current situation, I am neatening the big girl up and try to get her tip top. This is one of the issues I would like to get sorted. What I Have Done: Thursday -- Replaced passager plug (H4 replacement plug from Bursons) with those shrink/solder/seal joiners joining the wires. Today -- Replaced the bulbs with normal 55/60w (normal being not blue) Effect -- nada 😄 High beams work and driver's side low beam works a treat. It is looking like there is a wiring issue a little further back.... I was hoping not. Anyone ran in to this issue with theirs and have a solution?? Cheers millions in advance.

Nothing flagged up as being stolen when the relavent checks were done so, all I can do is assume that it is legit :D

Getting a local mob to reset the leaves and then, I'll deal with the shocks and bushes. Will be a fairly solid idea I think and saves me trying to ship this junk across country. Freight for this kind of thing tends to negate what ever savings can be found unless the gear can be collected. After the suspension is done... Then I'll be looking into helping her breath in better... That'll be fun I think Then a tune That should hurt

Yeah... This is my idea too. Getting the new gear and then I will just get rid of that crap. Hard to see where the earth goes... I've not really looked yet though. LoL thought I'd ask the questions :D ............. bloody toggle switches :'(

So, I am getting my ute rig to a point where it resembles that someone that has a clue has owned it... she's been mucked with by some strange "confident" folk. I did ask the guy I bought it from what this junk was, he didn't know. I am on a mission at the moment to not have no choice from what source my tuna comes from. Looking into the U-FUZE universal AUX and head unit connection and, as I've read, that plugs into a "floating" plug behind the fuzes. Easy enough. 'Cept, main aint floatin' It has the pictured plug in it and is, eventually, linking into these two toggle switches... just have NO CLUE what they'd be for...?? You guys have any idea? Maybe it was a common "mod" at one point. Appreciate it.

So, I am thinking that a Set of Kings FOR-303SL would do the trick, A set of Nolethane bushes and then just work out which shocks I wanna use... I am not planning on competing in any hill climbs but would like the ute to stick pretty well to the blacktop. See what I can find. There is a few options. Rears done would be a day job so long as I am organized (I'd be doing it by my lonesome).

@ROB83R -- Thanks for the tips mate I've had a sticky at the gear McDonals Bros are putting out Always impressive but, WAY outside my needs :D I'll chat to the aforementioned. Appreciate the tips! @OZYWALKER -- The process seems pretty straight forward. The relocating and centering of the axles seems to be the trickiest part of it all :D I've not nailed it down to one shock or the other really. KYB and Bilstein are both great. It'll come down to what I can afford and what is available really. I'd say it'll be a two parter. Rear and then front. Thanks for the bushing tips!

So, I am trying to get this ute back to a point where it resembles that someone has given a sh*t about it at some stage. Getting there I guess... The next step in this process, is what holds the vehicle on the road. I took it in to the local Fulcrum dealer and had them give the old "once over" and it came back confirming things I knew and also telling me of wear that I wasn't aware of but wasn't too surprised to hear. So, on the cards is a front and rear suspension overdoo. A couple of bushes here and there and I think the LCAs needed a bit of loving. None too shocking. The two quotes I got though... Holy christ!! One quote for KYB shocks and the other for Bilsteins. Neither of them are happening. At least not through them. Doing some reading on the changeover process of the rear leafs (as I've not really mucked around with leaves before) and the process seems quote simple. I've been doing some reading on here as to which brand is a decent option. Kings came up, Saw something about Pedders. A lot of these mention "superlow" and that is not something I'm keen to do at all :( The thing is too bloody low now (partly due to the sadness of the suspension gear I think). I am not a stance kid and I am not looking to join that club. Just want a usable bloody ute :D Standard or 1 inch lower than would be fine I think. New nolethane bushes are available and VERY cost effective which I LOVE!!! Pointers as to where I ought to be looking? PS - Any tricky points about changing over the rear leafs in these or is it as straight forward as it looks? Thanks in advance

I know this is a "please remotely diagnose my vehicle" kinda thing but, If it is a "known" issue, maybe you guys can point me in the right direction. Conked out only once, noticed the struggling to maintain idle a few times now. I have a 2003 BA turbo ute running the auto 4spd. No known mods. Have these things got known MAF/MAP issues? One struggle - Was waiting at a set of lights where it started "searching" and then just went back to normal idle. Car was warmed up already. Nothing unusual. Conk Out - Leaving a shopping center, going slowly due to stupid speed pumps, started "searching", died. Put into 'P', started, drove off with no further issues... Anyone got a clue?

Didnt I say Intake Manifold..?? Thought I had. Yeah, I am looking into making a few piping changes and this MIGHT be a say to simplify some of it. I am not at all familiar with the fuel setup on these yet so, I'll have to check that out... Not really something I want to much with if I don't have to.

I have been looking at the TB relocatoin. Makes things a lot simpler. But, recently saw the engine bay on an F6. The intake manifold SEEMED a lot simpler than the one on my rig... Does the F6 intake mani fit on the BAs with minimal fuss?? Aside from that idea... I'd be keen enough to just get the relocation and get things simpler that way.

So... I am hoping someone has dealt with these dudes at some stage... and can vouch. http://www.performance-wise.com/page9.htm Bottom of the page = solid BIG cooler to suit the early rigs.

Overall plan for her is to simply getting her running efficiently. Get her breathing and out smoother and just working without increasing stress or risk of breakages. Money DOES make anything fit. This is a road I've just diverted from (for now). My name's sake is a project that I've chosen to... put on permanent ice for now: Datsun 1600 running a 13b turbo rotar with BIG fun factor. I'll re-attempt it one day when things are more settled. As for the different kits, the BF and FG coolers look like they'd do a fine job. More so than the smaller (allbeit deeper) BA version. That setup pictured looks like the goods. Would do the same job as the relocation kit. I imagine it'd be considerably cheaper as well. That something "off shelf" or custom fab job? How is the height clearance on this kit??

Hey Guys, Been doing some looking and reading into the idea of chucking an under battery CAI, a TB relocation (process west) and then grabbing a HDi Hybrid cooler. I'd read that for "stock" cars, the Hybrid coolers are fine which was nice to read. I am not looking to break records or do mad skids, just improve what I have and make it work more efficiently than they did from factory. Not all the pipes are going to match what I have planned but, I'll likely get the basic cooler and have some piping made to save that becoming an issue. Question I have is this -- On the BA, BF and FG - How much different are the mounting points and space available for the coolers?? Reason being, The physical sizes are quite different and mounting points seem to be different as well. Only going off of the "KITS" you can get. Can you chuck an FG cooler onto a BA and deal with the mounting in a fairly straight forward manner? If this question has been asked before, which I've no doubt it has been, I appreciate your patience. I did have a hunt but nothing really popped up as an answer for this question. Thanks in advance for any and all help. BA Intercooler Kit Bf Intrecooler Kit FG F6 Intercooler Kit

The only things I have changed from the car not doing it, to doing it is the hubs, discs and pads. Could be that I've upset something with the abs but I'm not thinking it'd affect the steering in the way that it has been affected. Power steering.... SEEMS like it but it didn't do that before. I've done some reading and the lines get to leaking quite a lot?? But, people turn to replacing the pump as it is the cheaper option?? Loose rack.. not as likely as that'd bump and carry on and, likely make the same "shudder" regardless of direction the wheels are being turned. Getting the brakes done in the morning, I'll let them know what it is doing and maybe it was in the way that I've put something back on. First time really doing anything to the car, gonna have some "learning" moments. Thanks for the tips.

I've got the rig booked in Thursday morning to have a pro go over the brakes and adjust the hand brake as well. I've got both but, if I pro does it, it is done properly 100%. I will let them know what it is doing and, if it is brake runout or something else brake related, I will hopefully get that sorted same day.

Hub nut was properly positioned and torqued (as best as I could with the tools I have) 300nm is insane! To undo them, as I mentioned above, I fixed the socket onto the nut and leaned on it... undid :'( As for greased... no sir!! :'( Looked into the replacing of them pretty extensively and no one mentions greasing the hub/nut.......

Brand new hubs and bearing kit. I didn't replace bearing alone. Still easy to install incorrectly? No noise when driving in a straight line or turning to the right.

Being an Ex EVO 8 owner, nothing would make me happier. Also, having that cash spare to go brembos, would also make me quite happy too I imagine. I've another issue to solve now I think.. and I am a little confused about it. Changed: Front and rear discs Front and rear pads Front hubs and bearings Now, when I steer wheel to the left, the car shudders like the power steering motor is having some trouble doing what it is told..... I'll do some searching, see if I can't find the known issue and solution on here somewhere. Only when steering the car to the left though.

So, for future reference, part number and descriptions are: Caliper Guide Sleeve/Pin -- AU2 2C099 A Guide Pin Boot -- ER2B069A As for the bolts, they did have them so I went down to the local Repco and picked up M8 x 1.25 @ 20, 25 and 30mm. Ended up using the 25s. Not sure if people didn't know the parts or advice... shame. Hope I've helped someone.

So, today and yesterday I had plans to go over my newly purchased 2003 xr6 ute's brakes as there has been some wheel shudder, intermittent squeaking and a "bearing issue". Today, was allocated to doing the fronts as I figured, I'd give myself the most time to get that done (the whole day). Today has strengthened a long held belief that, some people, should NOT work on cars... In the caliper there was a 12mm bolt heads along site a 13mm and ALL of the sliding nuts have been almost completed bloody rounded off :'( (one of which eventually snapped) The caliper bracket was the same in that it had odd sized bolt heads on the upper and lower. Bottom was a 19mm head and the other was a 15mm one. Couple with the fact that I've been supplied with the wrong bloody brake pads for the front :'( today is not coming up peaches for me at all. So... Now I have to source some new brake pads, get a refund for the one supplied incorrectly and TRY to source some "slider bolts" and bracket bolts as well. <-- if you guys happen to know part numbers, I'd be really appreciative... that way I can just call ford and ask for part numbers. Save more I <3 Bananas ups. Hope ya'll are having a more winning day than me :D OH... The bearing issue... pretty confident that the issue there was not the bearing but the fact that the hub nut was done up SO softly that, I fitted the 36mm socket, attached the bar and leaned on it... and it undid (both sides). Some people should NOT work on cars!!!!!