RJF6

got some time to look at it on Saturday morning and after pulling out a couple of spark plugs I noticed they were dry, so I got the wife out to turn the key while I had a screw driver between my ear and the fuel rail and nothing no flow, drained tank as it was full and removed pump, discovered the line from the pump to the lid(that the lines connect to) had broken off, So new fuel line in and off she went. I had mistaken some vibrations I felt in the rail while roadside as I sign of fuel flow and I was wrong! :( I put a new o2 sensor in just cause I was working on the car and I also noticed that the battery negative clamp is loose, the bolt thread is stuffed couldn't tighten or undo it. I'll sort it out when I have some more time. Tip for young players: do not try and remove fuel pump with a full tank LOL. I was lucky to have disconnected the fuel line at the filter thinking it could be blocked, after waiting for the line to empty its self of fuel for a minute I noticed it was being gravity fed, as the tank was full and the lines come from almost the bottom of the tank! (sh*t idea) Thanks for your replies guys, I'm slowly learning about this car

Did it turn over? Mine cranks fine just won't start

Hey guys thanks for the replies, so I can feel fuel vibrating through the rail when it's priming, I will disconnect the return line and make sure today, with the sct plugged in it is reading rpm while cranking so a guess the cas is working, is there anything else that could cause it to lose injector pulse and spark? Left it for a few hours while I was at work, tried to start again no good, tried holding throttle to the floor to turn off injectors in case it was flooding, and nothing just keeps cranking not even a cough out of it

Hey guys, After some advice, today I was driving to work.... nek minute I wasn't! The car just stopped no cough no stutter just went from cruising along to engine off, dash all lit up as it does when you turn on the accessories, engine cranks over just won't start, I didn't have much time to look at it as I was heading to work just had it towed home, tomorrow I'll get hold of a scan tool and see what it says, I can hear the fuel pump priming and can feel fuel flowing in the rail, So I'm thinking no spark and or no injector pulse, Has this happened to anyone else? Ba mk2 F6 114,000k's 60lbs injectors sct tune that's about it

Same dick beating P plater drove slow AF down this road, when we got to dual lines to enter the round about I moved right to overtake him, he pulls right and cuts me off, I move left and pass him on the outside lane, he floors it half way through the round about to not let me pass and spins out and off the road hahaha That made me feel good, none was hurt only has ego, I hope he has learnt to to be a dick beater!!

Hey dudes, Been lurking around the forum for a while thought I should post here, I am the new owner of a ba mk2 F6 after a long history with Jap cars this is my second "performance ford" (I had a turbo tx3 as a p plater). Must say I really like the car although I think the last owner wasn't really nice to it, I've been going over it slowly and servicing it and I'm planning on doing some more modding to get it where I'm really happy driving it. At the moment it has 60lbs injectors, walbro pump, high flow cat and a xcal4. My plans are cooler (looking at aero flow 600x300x100), exhaust, Clutch, coilovers and swaybars. first I need to fix boost spike and rear end knocking probably diff bushes! that was the First thing I did too haha, I hear you on missing the jap cars these things are just not as agile.

update. After some more driving I started to hear some exhaust leaks, mostly on cold start, I found a few exhaust leaks in the little time I had to go over the car, changed fuel filter and gearbox oil, also tried to bleed the clutch but I think there is an issue there seems to be sucking in air, further investigation needed :( But fuel consumption has dropped down to 13ish lt/100kms happy with that. Thanks for the help guys

thanks mate, yeh I plan on running a manual one

Yeh ya Never get under a car only supported by a jack, I just did my oil for the first time car only took 5.5 lts of new oil and 5.5 is all that came out, I ended up driving up on to some wood blocks to change mine to, easier then using a jack and stands, oil filter came out pretty easy by hand no tool required, remember to run a film of oil over the rubber seal on the new filter and don't tighten the sh*t out of it, then hopefully next time around it will come out easy again.

Hey guys, I've had a search and could not find anything, I'm wanting to know if anyone has changed the standard boost gauge for another one (that shows actual boost level) and what is involved in doing this, I've read that the stock gauge is an electronic one and has no boost/vacuum line going to the actual gauge, is this correct? Sorry if this has been covered before but I couldn't find it!

Yeh I'll have a good look over it, it's way to thirsty, maybe dud o2 sensor or some exhaust leaks

Yeh that sounds a lot better on the pocket, need to sort that out ?

Well the first tank I got about 500klms of 6th gear freeway driving from Sydney back home, second tank driving to and from work and a bit of a hoon on the weekend 320klms pretty poor I thought!! Car is telling me it's averaging 15 odd lt/100ks, and I hardly hit boost during the week is that considered bad for one of these? ?

as far as I know o2 sensors adjustments are not used at WOT only at cruise, could definitely be stuffed though being 11 years old and contributing to poor fuel economy, I cant hear any noticeable exhaust leaks but that doesn't mean they are not there, so I will have a good look for them. As for me thinking its in the tune its an argument that makes sense, I've heard the car ping (big time) and I'm guessing that at the times it feels flat its because the car has hit R&R before an audible knock, I started this topic (being a noob) to learn about the limits of the standard parts I'm still using so I could gain a little extra power, and thanks to your comments and the info on the forum I have completely changed approach on this.(Although still an absolute noob) now I'm thinking turn it back to a safer level and save some coin before reaching for more!! and here is the dyno graph!!

Awesome power curve mate, that's what I'd like mine to do!!!

Yeh I hear you mate, but it's also sh*t on fuel think if a retune it now then hold off for a few months I'll get my money back on fuel saved lol, plus I feel very uneasy driving it after hearing it detonate the other night ☹️️

yeh I was thinking the car was pushing hard to do what it is, think I'll retune for 20-30kws less until I sort out the other gear, surprised the guy who tuned it let it out of the work shop if it's on the edge that much, done some reading last night and I'm slowly learning more about these beasts

I only talk rwkw!!! new to this forum I thought Rwkw was the standard across most forums as we are all testing our cars @ the wheels and I didn't need to elaborate on that, but all good I'll remember to post rwkw not kw

ah see I was told that the fvp was pretty much ready to run 300kw+ with just injectors and a tune (by a ss driving mate who thinks he knows his sh*t) this is the info I need to learn, think I'll change fuel pump and filter, then have it re tuned for less boost until I can do intercooler kit, battery relocate and intake. seems most people go for the big named kits are they really that much better?? I better get reading

Yep replaced with genuine coils

The coils and plugs are new and the car is not miss firing, I think the lack of power on and off is from the tune being to aggressive for my lack of mods, I just don't know enough about the cars limits to know what components are letting it down, or even if it is just a sh*t tune and everything else is ok, apart from the suction pipe coming off all the time (stupid plastic crap)

Thanks for the replies guys, they are some good suggestions skid I'll try and get some time on the weekend to go over everything, will changing the actuator help with maintaining steady boost? I was thinking of changing to a 12psi turbosmart one, I've been reading missed results and fixes to boost spike/control issues on these cars, if I can make the tuners job easier I will by changing or replacing anything problematic, as for it having inconsistent power delivery I think it's in the tune, maybe some days I'm getting r&r and others I'm not? maybe heat soaked intercooler/ engine bay, as I said I'm a noob with these cars and have no idea on when the standard components reach their limits

Hey Guys, Ive bought myself a BA mk2 F6 two weeks ago, It has a couple of goodies but is also giving me a headache, I bought the car knowing it had 60lbs injectors, high flow cats and a sct x4 flash tuner, the car makes 302kw which is pretty good considering the lack of mods (as far as I know being a barra Noob) Issue 1 some times under load the car just feels flat and well short of 300kw other times its a beast Issue 2 under WOT in 4th Im sure I'm hearing a ping from time to time so I'm just not doing that anymore, and in my years of owning turbo cars its the worst ping I've heard on one of my cars Issue 3 the crappy intake pipe from the turbo keeps coming out of its counter part on top of the engine sucking in unfiltered air I'm trying to get a copy of the dyno sheets from the tuner showing boost, he has told me it spiked to 15psi and then dropped back to 13psi. With standard Cooler and Exhaust (-cat) am I at max power or is there more in it? My plan is to have it retuned at another workshop just wanted to know if there is anything I should do first? Thanks Guys P.S trying to post up graph but don't yet know how to

That's a good read and great result!