azzah

Looking for people's advice on an issue that was fixed by ford @ 99,000km but now at 105,000km it seems to be back. Will they cover it since the issue wasn't fixed permanently or tell me to bugger off you're past 100,000km so no warranty. Was getting a drive line vibration which never happened until ford replaced the drive shaft coupling and diff cradle bushes. It went back in and they found the drive shaft coupling wasnt balanced correctly so they rebalanced it but found the vibration was still there so they replaced the tail shaft and issue was solved or so I thought. A few thousand km later and it's coming back. Don't know if it's related but getting diff whine between 90-100km/hr but not at any other speed I'm dyslexic and cannot turn off simple functions in tapatalk

nope but all work has been completed without question

when it went in for them to inspect the problem I reported no it didnt, when I picked it up I spoke to the warranty manager and told him what I was doing he said go for it we will only knock it back if the upgrades you do are deemed to have caused the problem, so this time it was dropped off to them with the turbo side intake done, battery relocation done and new intercooler pipes

thank god for warranty, car was booked in yesterday and today to get the tailshaft rebalanced, they ended up doing the following - both upper control arms have been replaced - all engine mounts replaced - tailshaft replaced

Guess I could spend the day detailing it and buffing out the swirl marks from all the times the cops washed it with a broom

hopefully that's all it is, its strange the smoother the road the more I seem to feel it

still on stock/factory tune so should be fine already spent $800 of money I didn't really have to begin with, if I dont get anywhere with ford I will take it elsewhere

Firstly sorry for the long post Purchased a turbo side intake and battery relocation kit and tomorrow is my first free Saturday without the wife and kids to bug me in months so its the perfect time to install it but I'm a bit worried it will void the warranty and here is why and if anything has had similar problem to the below or know what the cause might be any ideas would be great. Ive had the car for a bit over 2 months and had some things fixed under warranty by Ford that were identified by NRMA pre purchase inspection. which were - leaking oil from the timing cover - leaking exhaust manifold while cold, once warm it was fine - oil marks on diff They fixed all those and while ford was looking at it they identified that the drive shaft coupling and diff bushes needed replacing so they were replaced under warranty but over the following days/weeks I started to notice that on some roads I would feel a vibration above 60km/h through the seat and floor its hard to describe exactly what it felt like but kinda like either there was something stuck in tyre or something was wobbling. I don't feel it through the steering wheel and can be felt in drive and while rolling in neutral. It has slowly gotten worse to the point where on certain roads it feels like I'm driving over a bed of pebbles so I went to a beaurepaires to get them to look at it - On the first visit they noted that the tyres were crappy cheap Chinese tyres put on by the dealership and could be the source of the vibration and that they also didn't bother getting the tyres balanced, and that the front left rim had been repaired (ex highway patrol car) I got the tyres balanced to see if it would improve it and it didnt - on the second visit I got them to swap out the repaired rim with the spare full size rim in the boot hoping that the repaired rim might be the cause, but the problem still persisted - the next day I booked in and got a full set of Michelin Pilot sport 3, $820 later I was hoping problem would be resolved, sadly it wasn't. I now have it booked back in with Ford to get it checked out in 3 weeks, but now not sure if I should hold off on installing the turbo side intake knowing it might be quite some time until I get another chance to install it

Thanks if it's going to cause issues I'd rather make sure my spare tyre and the ones on the car are the same size. Was at a tyre shop the other day (before I found out about the spare) and they did say the tyres on it now are cheap and nasty (but plenty of tread) so I think the dealer has just put the cheapest tyres on they could so I'm tempted to piss them off and just get 4 new tyres that match the spare

Recently purchased a second hand ex NSW highway patrol xr6 turbo with the typhoon wheels and I noticed yesterday that my spare tyre is a different size to the tyres on the car. My spare is 245/40 R18 and the rest of of my tyres are 245/45 R18. Am I right in thinking that if I ever get a flat and have to put the spare wheel on that I should minimise the time I spend driving with that different size tyre or is it perfectly fine to drive on. Also which is the size that would have been provided from factory 245/40 or 245/45

I doubt there's very much R&D involved in making a small tray to hold a battery and then selling it for $400-500. Any way we are getting off topic wasn't looking for an argument was just stating the big price difference between the two I could make the same statement about Subaru's being more expensive to mod then the Evo and they have an even bigger market

If there was only overseas companies mass producing these cheap parts for the Evo I'd agree but the majority of the parts I fitted were Aussie made and have to compete in the same market as these one producing parts for the XR6 T

I hear ya my never took my Evo down the strip but I had mates with less power then I had getting in the low 12s high 11s and I probably spent about $2500-3000 including a dual map tune

Yeah but I notice everything for the xr6 turbo is over priced even generic kits. Previously had an Evo 8 and mods on that were easily half the price of xr6 T mods

That kits got nothing on plazmaman pricing, those guys must wipe their arses with $100 notes

This might not be the case for the BA and BF but looking at some premade kits for the FG to get some ideas and the pics I see for 4 inch kits all have aftermarket cooler pipes. Is there insufficient clearance for a 4 inch pipe under the stock FG hot side. this kit is 3 inch and that says its specifically made for the stock cooler pipes, eBay sale here they do a 4 inch kit but says it doesn't suit stock cooler pipes eBay sale here and plazmaman kit also says you have to replace the hotside to fit their 4 inch kit So perhaps I will have no choice but to get him to fab up a 3 inch pipe

Yeah Looking at that it would be a tight fit and plazmaman only do the kit for the ba/bf so guessing the angles don't work right for the FG so perhaps I will just relocate the battery. So guess my only unanswered question is am I better off getting a 3 inch intake on the stock turbo rather then a 4 inch intake. mods feel free to change the topic to something like 3 inch intake vs 4 intake

Got a family member that runs a fabrication business so looking to get him to make up a turbo side intake and air box. I don't really want to relocate the battery so was thinking about a mini battery. I'm sure this has been done before so was wondering what model odyssey battery is recommended that will fit in that space and still fit a pod filter. Also with the stock fg turbo am I better going with a 4 inch or 3 inch intake. Have stock cooler pipes at the moment but will most likely upgrade them but don't see myself upgrading the turbo at any point

Might try a few passes then

Yeah it's not from lack of trying my father had a heart attack and has been in and out of the hospital the last 5 months and my wife's grandfather has had 4 strokes and has been in hospital for 6 months so if I'm not up at the hospital then she is then the rest of the time is spent at work or controlling our 3 year old. actually been thinking about taking a week off work and putting more shelves up in the garage so we can finally get the cars in

yeah my BA XR8 sounded like a V8 should sound, previous owner spent some money on the exhaust. Had quite a few other XR8 owners come up to me in car parks etc commenting on the sound and how they wanted theirs to sound like it.

The V8 had instant power once you were above 3500rpm lol

No sorry didn't get any before and after pics but in the sun you can really see the difference when you compare it to the rest of the car. With the rest of the car you can really notice the swirl marks reflecting in the sun whereas with the bonnet you have to look closely to notice them. If its sunny before I drop the car off at Ford in the morning (getting a few warranty items fixed) I will take a photo of the bonnet that been polished and most swirls removed and one panel that is full of swirls. You will just have to excuse the fact that the car is covered in dust as I live in a new estate and a lot of land is being cleared so dirt is constantly in the breeze and as we only moved in 8 months ago the garage is too full to get the cars in.

picked up an 2014 FG Mk2 XR6 turbo ZF about 5 weeks ago and been reading up on a few things but not all posts specifically say if they are about the FG or the BA or the BF so here goes Firstly these are the mods I'm eyeing off to start with, not looking to spend thousands just minimal spend and then tune it restrictor ring removal turbo side intake (found a 3 inch kit that says it suits the factory pipes) battery relocation rear muffler removal (drive on Hume highway and M5 daily so don't want drone and heard the centre was more likely to drone on a sedan) Now onto the actual questions Hoping I can do all those with out a tune, the only one not 100% on being safe without a tune is the restrictor ring but from the pics ive seen the ring is on the exit side of the cat so should be safe. Once funds have recovered I will move onto getting it tuned Once I am ready for a tune how much am I looking at for a HP tune in Sydney, and any HP tuners close to the Camden/Campbelltown area what boost level do most people safely run on the stock FG turbo and do the stock pipes handle it or do they start leaking past a certain point

Hey all recently picked up an MK2 FG XR6 Turbo and seeing as it is an ex cop car the greatest of care wasn't taken when they washed it so it's covered in swirls. So I got my Clay mitt out and RO polisher and got to work have just done the bonnet so far and it got a lot of swirls out but after 2 passes some slight swirling still remains although its probably 80-90% better then it was. Is Ford paint known to be tough paint to polish/correct items I used to try to polish/correct were Mint protools DAS-6 Random Orbital Polisher Menzerna Fast Gloss FG500 (2 passes) with a microfibre buffing pad Menzerna Super Finish SF4000 (1 pass) with black finishing pad Duragloss Total Performance Polish