BigMoscow

Brake upgrade done. Braking feels completely different. Less night initially but allot more progressive. If I stomp on the stop pedal, food comes back up. Need to get used to it I guess.

Upgrading the brakes this weekend with heavy duty pads and T3 4000 rotors

Cams will help me get air/fuel in and exhaust out of the engine more efficiently. help the turbo spool quicker. No one has given me any solid reason why they are a bad idea. I agree 100% that I can achieve my goals without changing the cams. I believe I can achieve my goals with better drivability and less stress on the engine with cams.

Kind of. It's my daily driver. Goal is to have nice daily driver with the potential to get into the 9s

It's soooooo pretty. Match made in a porno. Cams are not a certainty. Atomic did specifically say that even though it's called a stage 4 cam, it is still relatively mild and is designed to lift power across the rev range. There is no machining required, just need to check the tolerances. I'm not planning on spinning the motor any harder then stock.

That's why I'm still very much interested in the Atomic stage 4 cams. I know they have to sell their parts but after getting some much needed tuition on cams from them for free, it's hard not to be impressed. I am told the stock crank is quite good and I'll hit my power levels without upping the rev limit.

Cheers. Seen some amazing dyno graphs on the 2.8l engines. Can't wait to see what it will do on a 4l. As for the housing, im leaning towards the 1.15. Large enough to let it breath but not too large and split pulse of coarse.

Sorry for the confusion. I was visiting Adelaide. I'm in Perth. I'm opting to have the same guys to work on my F6 that worked on my GTR. I trust them. I'll need to get some one else to tune it though. From what I am told, the 1800hp unit will be overkill and will require a fair amount of structural cutting to fit. Jonny tig recommend the 1400hp unit, just said to opt for the 3inch inlet and outlet.

I chose the 6870 as it is stated to support 1100hp of air but it should still be as responsive as the stock unit. You reckon ID would work better then Bosch?

For pumps will be going Walbro 460lph all round. They are quite cheap, reviews are good and compact enough to be invisible. Very much like the processwest kit. Plazmaman or processwest fuel rail, bosch 2000cc injectors and turbosmart regulator. Would like to go all processwest.

Hello. Sorry I have been away for a while. An update on the build. The GTR is sold so Money is now freed up for the F6. The list has changed some what since the last time I was here. Will be chasing a little more power. At this stage I will build as much as I can around the engine while choosing the components for a bottom end rebuild. Leaning towards the Atomic 998 rebuild kit but now set on it. As for the rest of the list: Precision 6870 gen2 cea turbo high mount twin scroll manifold ext gate of coarse 2000cc injectors jonny tig 1400hp stepped intercooler with 3 inch in/out piping upgraded in tank pump and a twin pump setup with surge tank on the outside big battery in the boot atomic valves and retainers atomic oil pump gears rebuilt zf with billet input shaft 4 inch exhaust still looking at the stage 4 atomic cams once the paerts for the motor are picket, that will be rebuilt also. End goal is 1000rwhp on e85 and around 600on 98ron. Would love to dip into 9s on e85. After driving a few very quick Gtrs and one very very quick xr6 turbo in Adelaid, my eyes have been opened a little. The xr6 in adelaid had 670rwhp and I had no problems driving around in it all day. The hard part was not booting it every chance you see some open road. If any one has any suggestions regarding the list of external parts or which parts are good for a rebuild. would love to hear form you.

Besides the cam shafts and valve springs I won't be doing anything else to the head. Atomic have advised that besides checking all the loads, no other head mods are needed. They advised that even though it's a "stage4" cam shaft, they aren't very wild/lumpy by any means.

There is a huge difference between in drivability of a 10sec car and a 9sec car, let alone 8. I am sure that with practice, I will run 10s. As as for boost levels, this is where every person will be different. I get the general idea that going over 25psi is starting to push the internals. Cams will ill be the very last item to go in. So I will be able to post a direct comparison between pre and post cam shafts. If time and money permit, I will post some pre and post time slips also. I just can't see how they would make the car worse. They are also one of the cheapest items on the list.

Big boost would be fine if e85 was readily available. Currently I have to stay with 98ron. So big boost is too risky. In time, I'm sure e85 will be everywhere and I'll have the $$$ for a forged bottom end. As for going into the 8s. This is my daily driver. I have been in some 9 second cars. Both gtrs and big v8s. They all had one big problem. I would never drive them daily.

So I hear that after a short period of time, doffs start to move around on powered up sedans. Is it true and what's the cure?

This will be more the fast enough for everything I want to do. There red will be suspension upgrades needed but I should be able to get into the 10s and be pretty competitive on the track. Plus it will still look stock enough to make an occasional rice burner/hsv owner and maybe even bike owners saying WTF later on I might invest in a bottom end see what numbers I can hit.

I like you Mightbuyaford. You are an enabler. It it was my thought exactly. Stage 4 Cams #306551 Duo Phased Advertised Inlet duration 262° Advertised Exhaust duration 257° Inlet duration at .050” lift 203° Exhaust duration at .050” lift 196° Lobe lift - inlet and exhaust .223” Valve lift - inlet and exhaust .455” Lobe centres Lobe centres 112degrees computer controlled

It will be the atomic stage 4 cam. You are right, it is not. But they are not expensive to buy or to install. Plus it will help response, lag and help me reach my goals easier.

Just had all the quotes come back modifying the original turbo cam shafts valve springs cold air intake intercooler kit oil pump gears injectors twin fuel pump system battery relocation gear box mods (input shaft and clutches) 4inch mild steel exhaust hand controller freight,labour,tuning $18k the he whole system will be E85 compliant and everything will have room to spare should I go the E85 rout later on.

First and most it is a daily driver so response is important. Accessional hill climb and drag strip trip is second. Looked into e85 storage and unfortunately it's deffinetly out of the question while I have a toddler. I spend allot of time in and around the garage in my trade and he is with me all the time. One bad step, one moment of lapse in concentration and I'll be on the news as the worst parent. Has anyone here rolled the guards on an fg? Just want to know the width of rubber people are able to squeeze under their sedans.

I am going with atomic for allot of the parts. Oil gears, valve springs. The cams are still a couple of months away. If all turns out well and I have the funds, I'll do the cams last. That way we can see a direct comparison before and after.

You just summarised 4 hours of reading for me. Where were you last night

I am by no means as car smart as Some of you guys but so far every article I read says that more lift and duration on boosted engines is a good thing. If the tuner is good enough there should be power gains across the entire rev range. NA ENGINES are different and there can be substantial power losses. With the GTR I increased both lift and duration slightly and it felt like I stroked the motor. Everything improved. Ressponse, lag, power. No losses anywhere.

I will most likely use xtremefordtuning for tuning of the car. Most of the install will be done by me and two mechanic friends. The only thing that will be done by the shop is the cams if I end up going that way. I am told that cams will help the exaust leaving the chaimber and cylinders filling up quicker. Some people claim power gains just by changing cam shafts and re-tuning. without adding any extra boost. I know th engines are world apart but cam shafts worked a miracle on my GTR. Turbo wise, I cant give the exact specs from what I understand (three worst words in tuning), The housing is gt37 with a brand new billet wheel and ceramic bearings. This aparently will give me more then enough airflow and will spool just as well as the stock turbo.

I can only go with what I have here. Speaking to per4manz, they seem to know what they are talking about. I've delt with them in the past (be it a long long time ago) and had good results. We have two main turbo rebuilders here in Perth. One has very bad reviews from tuners and these guys seem to be getting good results. I know people are saying that cam shafts are a waste of time at my power levels but the more I read about the benefits the more I am tempted to drop them in.