Ruger

When your battery is on its way out that few minutes of water pump could be the difference of your car starting or not.

there is a few issues I have with these - first being battery. the pump running when the car is off is not good for the battery in any way it will take its toll on the battery over time. No matter how effiecient it is its still an electrical motor and it still puts strain on the battery. I wouldnt run one without a deep cycle battery! Belt issues have been covered by you lot its a big issue. And failure! I know a bloke an engine builder who runs one in a 253 powered torana failed after 2 and a bit years nearly cooked the donk. as for horsepower - the windsor blokes in the states in their 5.0 stangs get 11hp. For us in our brand new modern cars to get 9-10rwkw in my opinion is a little on the optimistic side im thinking more like 4-6kw max. its about 10hp on a clevo too afaik so go from those figures.

im 50 50, on it count me in for now but I may have to pull out.

I read it, Re read it, Re read it again, squinted at the photos for a good hour then said to myself how the **** did he get that working! he mentioned someone in perth if I get another twin system going ill be giving him a call alright!

4495's here dunno what rwkw im making but ive run 95mph.

what ya looking at doin ? my next will probably be davies craig ewp

I'll throw mine in also as its got the xr8 cat back magnaflow metal cat and pacemaker 4495's http://members.optusnet.com.au/quantum3/exhaust.avi

HAHAHA The Primer Destroyer! awesome name. especially with all the scratches and dings and scuffs all over it it definately looks like its destroyed a few things in its life! The car is a mess lol not one panel is clean and scratch free The air con is a dash out job and easy days work. be carefull when you take the seat out not to scratch the paintwork on the inner panel thing where the door goes. Take the box one off all together All the 4 way rubbish is all in the seat rail. get a fabricator to make a custom one wont be too expensive A few weeks sounds good to me mate shouldnt be a drama ill let you know closer to the date though but I dont see any problem unless I blow something up (hope not :( )

Let me know id like to see the ute run I might race my primer monster aswell. if you want to lighten your interior get a custom solid mount seat rail - stock one is heavy. take out the passenger seat and the airbag Get rid of the tail gate, sports bar and all plastic trimmings that dont need to be there. if you dont like aircon take the compressor out, all the lines, heater core and all the plumping. easy 40kgs just there. before you think about any of it just remember 6LBS = 1HP! so 30 odd kg = 10hp. oh and ditch the tow bar if you got one.

It would weigh a bit even though its alloy and the utes already have a 100kg weight disadvantage to their 4 door cousins. Ive never removed the tail gate on the utes so I cant help you there. should have gone for the alloy tray (they are very ugly though lol)

One thing I noticed when I did my underdrives, it really didnt feel like it pulled any harder but you could tell how quick it revved up that it wasnt how it was previously (revs quicker, speedo moves quicker) Similar feeling to a lightened flywheel.

I know exactly what you mean but problem being it will most likely have to be electoronically driven. To get the twins to work on mechanical linkage youll need the tps to be on one tb and the driven motor on the other one so you have 1 of the sides of each tb free so you can do your linkage there. Problem being with a staggered setup the TPS will have to be on the main throttle body and the also the motor on the main one has to be the driven one. This leaves you no room to setup a mechanical linkage (like you said with springs and stuff) because you have nothing to run it off. Pain in the but? Yep I know :( Driving the second one with a high torque servo and appropriate controller with the right programming might do the trick though. As for my rough idle you wanna know what it was like? unplug the motor on your throttle body and the idle will go skitzo very very very rough, not the occasional caugh, splutter, or misfire. sounds like its running on 2 cylinders. The stalling that was probably just the computer freaking out, tune would prob fix it. The idle when it was working sat on 900rpm it wasnt possible for it to go any lower because the each tb was letting too much air through and the butterfly was already set as far back as possible. also when you start the engine usually in an ideal setup itll rev to 1100-1300 or so then settle. with the twins it would rev to about 2k (wouldnt be good on a cold morning!). ecu tinkering could fix that though. Its possible to get it going definately not out of reach just gotta keep working at it.

That makes sense With my manifold in particular if you looked at it in detail each throttle body is positions perfectly above each bank of 3 cylinders. That I dont see as a problem. If you implement the staged throttle body (similar to the vac secondarys on a carb) then there will definately be phasing issues. the only way to do a secondary would be for it to be fed in the middle of the manifold. I did go through alot with it ill post up in more detail after some rest, im screwed.

The Map sensor does the reading. it reads vacuum and boost. standard map sensor goes up to 1 bar I think that's how the ecu puts its head around things. the ba map sensor also has an integrated temp sensor. When you get the manifold off get pics! I wanna see the inside. Hiddeous as for the vacuum testing I dont have access to the required equipment. if anyone does im happy to put the hard yards in and do the testing.

Edit: Jays RPD are out of business theyve decided to calll it quits and continue it on as a hobby that's not good at all oh dear sad sad day. I just worked it out the surface area of a single 90mm throttle body is 6361mm2 whereas twin 70mm is 7696mm2 so the twin will still outflow the big single by a bit. Might be my next project though.