bbq_xr6

I'd like to agree, but this absolutely isn't cutting corners. There's has to be a very good reason but I have no idea what. Such a complex contraption is adding a couple of hundred dollars per car. Making it harder to assemble. Costing much more in raw materials. Adding 3x more failure points. Even by the factory stage, it would be far cheaper to scrap a years inventory and redesign it to single high pressure flex than continue using this monstrosity.

That's normal. The torque converter lock up clutch (TCC) is designed to slip a tiny bit for smoothness and nearly the best fuel economy. The computers are trying to balance the slip, they apply the clutch a bit too much and you have practically direct drive harshness (like putting a manual in fifth gear at 60km/h and flooring it, you'll feel the buzzing through the chassis as you're seeing there), then realizing the engine should be spinning a tiny bit faster than the auto input shaft and backing off the pressure on the clutch to allow a bit of slip. It usually goes away when it warms up. It can also be a symptom a a split rubber bush in the auto letting out fluid pressure at low RPM. It's unlikely to cause a failure, but it's annoying until it warms up. Try changing the auto fluid. Do it properly. My favorite method is to cannibalize a plastic sump by cutting off the oil pickup and drilling right through and putting a pipe below so the auto can suck fresh fluid from a container and flush the torque converter properly which needs about 8-10 liters, unlike how most auto trans specialists just dump the sump and refill 3-4 liters.

I have a story too. Had my FG XR6t for about 7 years. I frequently tow around 2 tonnes (racecar full of fuel + electric braked tandem trailer + 6x 20L jerry cans of fuel + tools + spares) and found the FG as good as everyone here describes. Mine runs on liquid injected LPG and I average about 20L/100km on highways at 80-100km/h. I replace engine oil (any 5 or 10w40 synthetic) at 7-9,000km, ATF (Nulon synthetic 6HP26 compatible) at 30-40,000km and diff oil at similar intervals. Nearly 200,000km and only one major flaw with FG Falcons that some people can't even fathom as an issue and don't notice before/after. The half shaft unijoints are complete underengineered weak piddly rubbish, both OEM and aftermarket. Towing (within Fords rated load and speed specification), they typically last 5-10,000km before lash is measured in millimeters instead of low micrometers per CV joint as per specification. This causes massive NVH problems under load at speed, most noticeable with urethane diff and rear suspension bushes since they transfer harshness to the chassis more than factory rubber diff bushes (which also have similar short life in turbo editions). I haven't towed my racecar for a few years and in 2016 I made the stupid mistake of paying for overpriced OEM half shafts thinking they might be better quality. 40,000km and all four CVs (two per half shaft) are so completely shredded without towing, they need replacing again. I've lost the reciept too so I'm an idiot. These shouldn't be so weak. Every time I replace them, the car is as silky smooth as it was when it rolled off the dealership floor. My tailshaft's rear CV is also starting to be a little loose but that's completely expected at 200K after a very hard life. Gearbox and engine are perfect. Live axle, single piece tailshaft with two unijoints would last forever but drive like an EA-EL.

High pressure power steering hoses are a common failure on many cars, after changing mine today made me curious why the FG XR6t has such a complex abomination of a power steering hose? Three high pressure hydraulic hoses, six high pressure fittings for the supply side. Looks like it could easily be re-engineered as a single high pressure hose with two fittings. Also a crimped fitting on the return side 10cm from the attachment of the power steering cooler. Does anyone know why it's got so many parts to it for seemingly no reason? Here's a photo of one https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Power-Steering-Hose-Fits-Ford-Falcon-FG-4-0L-6Cyl-XR6-Turbo-06-08-11-11-Ser-1/272977004738

I had a slow coolant drip, would have to top up the water once every few days and I saw the dried coolant trails on the bottom of the water pump. I bought a new pump and replaced it along with the gasket and rubber O-ring (genuine green one), then it started one or two drips every second, major water leakage. I sanded and buffed the metal hose that connects into the back of the water pump to smooth it out but no matter how many times I try remove and refit it, the water always leaks from the rear metal pipe. I tried refitting the old water pump and it still leaks. I bought a new O-ring and it still leaks. When reassembling, is the green O-ring meant to go all the way in the water pump recess, or all the way down the metal pipe where the flange is? The metal water pipe doesn't seem to have any damage on it. Should I use some type of silicon or glue on the fitting? What else can I do to stop it leaking?