06TXR

Thanks mate. Will the fit the utes?

Hi guys Looking at getting some replica GT rims with staggered fit for my FG GS ute. They are only available as a 19x9.5 +40 offset for the rears and 19x8 +36 for the front. From what I understand the 40 offset will push the tyre out about 15mm and in 23mm. Is this ok for a ute & will it look funny as I have been told utes need something like a 30 offset which will push more of the wheel out. I assume it will not look that much different than the OE rims and tyres? Will wheels from the GT-F fit better?

Ended up calling Bryan Byrt Ford and had a chat to the service manager there. Told me to bring it in and they will have a look and seek approval for warranty. The leak was the timing cover and front engine seal. Complete coverage under warranty. Gotta be happy with that... To be honest, they would have to be the easiest and possibly the best dealership in SEQ that I have dealings with. I just wish I bought the car from them. Selling dealer put a big gouge on the front bumper at the first service. Was on holidays and took the car to a closer dealership for the 30k service only to be called a lier by the service adviser with regards to... you guessed it brake shudder... BBF offered to fix the brakes when they were doing the centre bush. I declined and fitted cross drilled and slotted. Def buy my next falcon from them!

Noticed a smell of oil burning last night and went to investigate. Found oil leaking from the RHS of the engine. At first I thought it was leaking from the turbo drain line to the sump, but on further inspection, found it was coming from further up. Pulled the front half of the turbo shield off + power steer pump and seen it was leaking at the front where the head / block / timing cover meet. Washed it all down and went for a run and definitely leaking from this area. Little disappointing having to do this at 47k & 18 days out of warranty and the car was / is never flogged. I had to do head gaskets on my EB and EL xr6, however both were in their late 100,000k. Would have thought that these problems would have been sorted by now. Is there an oil pressure gallery feeding to the head around this area? More likely to be the timing cover? If so, can this be resolved without removing the head? If the head does need to come off, how do you release the timing chain on these engines? Any other differences in removing the head compared to the SOHC? - cam phasers etc? Anything I should do to the top end whilst it is apart?

Stupid question, but if you were to buy a new short motor / block etc from Ford, does it have a new engine number stamped into the block or do you stamp your original number into it?

Had an opportunity to open the throttle up of my BFT - Transmission in "performance" mode (D on dash)2nd to 3rd gear upshift around 5900 rpm 3rd to 4th never happened nor did the the engine hit the rev limiter around 6100. Was watching the tacho waiting for the upshift 6000, 6100, 6200, 6300, 6400, 6500 and no upshift. Force the upshift - backed off and shifted into adaptive drive. I only did this the once and was lucky to also have a video of it. Has anyone else's BFT done this? Should I be taking it back to the tuner and asking WTF? In saying that, was of the understanding that we cannot modify the 6 speed auto software which would indicate this is factory?? It has never done it in adaptive drive.... Any thoughts?

Browsed bits and pieces of that article as I got dragged around the supermarket this afternoon... The xr6 was definately a 6 speed in that comparison?? Didn't take that much notice. Standard fitment for the n/a xr6 is the 5 speed auto. Assumed it was as 5 speed auto I read it. We'll just have to wait to 4.0 meets direct injection. SV6 0-100 6.4 XR6 0-100 6.8 am I right??

Hey xrt funny you should say that, mine makes the same noise at idle... I am not too fussed, remember my 351 making a simular noise at idle. Took it to Denmac Ford today as it is still on the tail end of the 5 year extended warranty for the carrier bearings in the differential and LHS door lock modulator. To be honest, I was going to have to whinge and whine about the diff noise. Nope. Both approved by Ford :)Hopefully the get it right as my EL XR6 had 2 replacement diffs and was on the way out again when I sold it to buy the Turbo. Anyway, goes back Monday for the diff Will ask about the engine noise then. How long have you had yours & how long with the noise? Getting any worse? Cheers!

hey all Relieving my turbo from towing duty and have taken delivery of a 04 BA ute with the barra 220 5.4 engine with 68k on the clock. Love the instant grunt from stand still, but is over quickly and really lacks top end. I have some pacemaker extractors and xforce dual exhuast on the way to hopefully liven it up a little - Understanding it will never ever compete with the turbo. Has anyone here done any mods to the 5.4 3 valve? (ie capa flash, increasing rpm from factoy limit of 5250) Not sure I wanna spend large amounts of money (camshafts s/c etc) on it though as I would rather spend it on the turbo... The sensor in the sump on the RHS - oil temp?? Thanks in advance everyone for input

Fitted a standard 92 degree thermostat. The engine is running no hotter than what it was with the factory "drilled" thermostat even towing double jet ski trailer. It is up to temp now in less than 2km vs 15km+ for the factory fit...

My BFT does the same thing. The ZF appears to loose drive to the tail shaft and you can hear the diff pinion loose contact with the crown wheel momentarily and back on again as it shifts through second to first. Can also hear it randomly 4th back to 3rd if you listen hard… Whilst stationary shift manually between first and second and you hear the same thing. Don't recall the 4 speed having the same issue. Has 40k did it before and after tuning.

Still has the 92 in it and it takes forever to warm up on cold mornings. It is that bloody second hole in the thermostat that the factory puts in it. Wonder if it would be ok to buy a 92 or even a 82 without the second hole to promote faster warm up. Understand the first hole is for air bleed, but when all the air is out of the system the little ball floats and blocks the hole. Usually you drill holes in the thermostat to hide another underlying problem.... Does anyone have a thermostat in their T without the 2nd hole?

Thanks for reply. So you are using an aftermarket thermostat now? If you are, does it have the hole? Should we be putting this hole in the aftermarket replacements if they do not? It takes forever to reach operating temp - and for the heater to work!

I have had concerns over the amount of time my xrt was taking to reach operating temerature. The moment you start the car you can feel the radiator getting hot giving an indication that the thermostat is not closed properly. I made mention when the vehicle went in for its 3000k check over service and was told they found a sticking thermosat and replaced it. Car came back and sill not much difference. Made mention again on the 30k service as was told all was perfectly normal - the car was also shuddering bad when on the brakes and the advisor told when I was booking it in, it was because they were hot spotted from driving to hard. I challenged him to get down on the floor or get the car on a hoist and point out the hot spots on the car which he flat out refused and argued with me... Changed my "hot spotted" with not a mark on them this weekend to slotted ones with green stuff pads and decided to check the thermostat that was "perfectly ok" I noted that apart from the normal air bleed hole with the jiggler in it, there was another hole that had been drilled into it. Is this additional hole requred for some reason or anther on the XR6T engine?

Can anyone tell me if there is any difference in the top end (camshafts, head, valve size etc) between the BF XR6t and the BF F6? Thanks

Hello people Hoping I can get some feedback on some questions I have regarding mods. I have a BF XR6T 03/07 6 speed auto. It has been CAPA flashed to 240rwkw. Only other mod is typhoon lower air box and intake and one number colder plugs If I fit a process west stage 1 intercooler will I also need to do injectors and re-tune to prevent lean out from colder, denser air into the engine? Performance gains from the I/c alone? Understand there is about 6 pis drop across the standard I/c, so to achieve 10 psi at the manifold the turbo will need to produce 16psi which adds heat to the intake air, slows spool etc... Will the engine run (enough to get it to the tune shop) with bigger I/c and injectors with either standard or 10psi mapping? A synthetic fluid that meets Ford mercon V LV/SP spec suitable for the ZF? With 240rwkw and the auto in sedan, what kind of 1/4 mile times are people getting???? Thanks in advance

HSV - I don't want one HSV - Why would anyone want one Holden. Go better, Go Falcon It amazed me that this is Holden's billion dollar baby and they still couldn't get it right. Fuel lines, seat belts. Maybe the seat belts were designed that way so when she catches fire from the fuel lines, you can abandon vehicle easier. I was driving home the other night thought a car was coming for me on the wrong side of the road. Then I realised it was a VS with the faded red tail lights. Only took them from the HQ/HJ kingy to the end of VS to fix. Not to mention their botched efforts at an IRS from VP to VX! Didn't the VS have issues with cathing fire too, rubber transmission lines coming off and showering the engine with transmission fluid? Do we all remember the ad for the new ecotec? You know the engine that rivaled many 4 cylinders on fuel consumprtion (and performance). Those ads were short lived. They had them running too lean an it was buring the oil off the bores? engine failure before 100K? Not to mention piston slap. So bad was it that there was gmpistonslap.com....

Hey Guys, I too ahd a BA turbo 5 spd which had 3 diffs replaced and was in ford every other day for issues with driveline clunk. I sold it in march 07 and bought a new Liberty GT and have not had one issue. I am hoping the FG fixes these issues as I miss the power.