ratter

you can not replace the actuator with a different one without adjusting the tune

let your insurance chase it up for you

my advice was not so you bring the car to me, but at the end of the day if you, or somebody you have got to do your setup, are either of you going to take responsibility if it doesn't perform? everything it seems these days fall in the lap of the tuner when it comes to blaming some one if it does not work to how somebody thinks it should, or there are issues based on parts you have used.

unless you have a stronger actuator you do not have enough to make 300-310 on an honest dyno

well the main thing is it is working for you for what you want

we have not noticed in real difference in the stock housing performance but know that if the orientation of the housing is slightly different is can add or reduce the actuator preload which will affect a car if tuned in open loop, what size actuator is now fitted and what boost does it run in the mid and at what duty cycle.

have you spoken to your tuner about your mods? we have seen many cars done by mechanics that think they know what they are doing, only to mess it up and the owner ends up paying the mechanic to do the job and then having to pay the tune shop to fix it up, some mechanics are really good, some are good for changing oil.

Just realised who you are, don't you run a 3" exhaust? if so the turbo port is not going to be as vital as when running a big exhaust, if you think it work well let us know the exact details, what size actuator and what boost at what duty cycle at 4000 and 4500 rpm, that will show how well it works, not trying to be smart but without that info anybody could claim anything

KPM are spot on, unless fuel pressure is logged, you have no idea about what is actually happening

boost up top is not an issue, it's mid range boost when a stronger actuator is used with a free flowing exhaust and intake. how about a pic of the flapper open and what size flapper did you use?

it's 4 bar delta pressure

is that aimed at me?

do not thinks it's going to work very well based on what I can see in your pics

well that's a start

I had a car towed to me after an engine rebuild and I had to get it running, the thing would not start with my tune in it and actually shot flames out the throttle body, did some checking on cam timing, they were timed correctly but the inlet was in the exhaust position and vice versa, swapped them around, retimed them and all was ok, no damage at all

keep us informed

some of you guys are idiots! It's on the internet so it must be true!

^ and it reads identical to my dyno except for the decimal point

I have a group buy happening on the Process West stage 1 and now stage 2 coolers if that suits you at all

the part that has been cut off is not easy to show you in the pics but nothing to do with what you have circled, no there is nothing your mechanic can do, it's a complete radiator support panel from ford that is a panel shop job to replace it, if any metal has been cut that would need to be fixed to be 100%. I have not meant to stress you out at all, there are plenty of cars out there that have been modded like yours, the only problem may show up at rwc time but front strength and air bog deployment could technically be affected

he's wrong! The plastic part removed is structural and should be part of the roadworthy inspection. One of my customers is an engineer at ford and he explained it to me a few years back that even though it's plastic it's part of the front strength and can affect a few things

Are you 100% positive it has been removed? It can be an issue when dealing with people that do not know these cars, things can get slipped by, ask them nicely about the legalities of removing structural parts and then explain that your car has it removed. As I sais previously it may not be an issue at the moment and you think that in a few years time and you may need another rwc that you will find somebody that may overlook it, that may happen but Vicroads send info out to their testers quite often as things start to get noticed to inform their testers what to look for, your car obviously passed this time but it may not next time.

chase it up and let us know how you get on can you take it down and get a proper quote, I know it will vary from shop to shop but would be great to see what sort of price range it was, that quote seems cheap to me as I would think the front bar, guards, headlights all would have to be removed for the panel to be replaced but yes please let us know

I would chase it up and see what they say, it may not affect you at the moment but it may if you ever need a rwc in future, I.e canaried or selling. 2nd thoughts though, what state are you in? It is illegal in vic and I'm assuming other states frown upon cutting a car up also