ratter

sounds like it is working ok

tyre size can be set, but just one size, it can not be altered for front and rear

we have not had one in a car for 20000 klms yet, but it would be time based issue if the ethanol was affecting the filter, any filter can be blocked fairly quickly if there is rubbish in the tank, that is not a fault of the filter just the filter doing it's job

you will need to keep very similar if not identical size rolling diameters front and rear

do you have different sizes front to rear?

single?

do you have stock wheels on the car?

trying to work out a deal on FG bolt in cats

too many variables with the current range of surge tanks and too many pieces to make it worthwhile to offer any real discount, I have asked

fuel trims are a good tool to help asses the running of the car, that is assuming the o2 is working correctly and not getting old

no idea what the conditions are before it does it's diagnostic trip

the code for generic obd2 codes is the same for all manufacturers, but manufacturer specific codes may have different meanings for the same code number. The Aussie Ford ECU does not know fuel pressure to give a pressure reading

that's a good example of why correct diagnosis is needed, but to be honest if I had a car with 1 faulty coil, I would be recommending all to be replaced as well, assuming it was a definite coil issue

I have a mate that teaches advanced automotive, he has a saying that I agree with "test, don't guess"

no worries mate, it just came across as a general comment

not quite true Jet, we are forever trouble shooting cars that we have not seen previously most workshops will do any work that customers are prepared to pay for, at present we have a BF XR6T that we have never seen before, it was brought into us as he can not get to the bottom of his issues since the bottom end was replaced after a blow up, so far we have found that the cylinder head temp switch which normally fits in the rear of the cylinder head has been broken off so a new one was fitted into an exhaust manifold stud so it is getting full exhaust heat into it, the turbo actuator hoses are on incorrectly, the turbo housing is wrong and the boost hose has cracked from the exhaust manifold heat, the front housing does not have a reference nipple so boost for the actuator is being taken from the inlet manifold, there is mechanical noises from the cylinder head and possibly a valve timing issue, wiring looms have broken plugs, incorrect boost pipe joiner on the throttle body and the blow off valve is fitted the wrong way around.

most cheap scan tools/code readers will only read generic OBD2 codes and not manufacturer codes, I have seen many cars that the owners say there are no codes and yet when we plug our scan tool into the car there are codes

He asked a very direct question, I answered directly, I do not have time sometimes to go into details about problems, he then asked why and I gave another answer

PWR heat exchanger fits

if it's been tuned for the stock actuator and you fit a 12 psi one then it will overboost big time

not on one of these cars, but a leak down test is normally more accurate indicator of what is going on

no your wrong

it will come up everytime codes are cleared or ecu is flashed, it will stay until the car has completed a drive cycle test

off hand the compressions we see on my gauge are normally 190-200 psi

I have no idea whether genuine or not but would not be surprised if non gen as the guy was pushing the iphone 4gs harder then the 5