ratter

it's easy to blame the tune and it may be the tune, but fact is you may have a mechanical issue that needs to be sorted

Simon made his own dyno but it uses dynologic software which is the same as Mainline use, not sure whether his software is up to date but that should not affect the basic dyno operation

so what's your problem, you can't get more than 16 psi or you cant get less than 16 psi, 2 totally different situations and what wastegate duty cycle is it actually getting, need this answer to know whether it's mechanical or tune related

just a correction, their dyno is not a Mainline

good tyres will help for sure as will a lsd, but a lot can be how the boost comes on in the tune

Thanks for the kind words Tyson, I'm glad we could help bring the car up to a level that you wanted, it's bit of shame though how the journey went

Harleys get picked up for excessive noise

stock exhaust systems do fail and need to be replaced from time to time, but as said above, totally stock?

factory tune has a wide margin of error built into it, once boost and spark are increased that margin can become very small, comparing a factory tune to an aftermarket generic tune is a pointless exercise, and afr is only a small part of what can cause any issues

did they drop the catback first to see what difference, if any it made? they may be correct, but if you have the worlds best cat but there is still a restriction in the system, then things may not change much at all, unfortunately for you, this is a example of things can go wrong and it happens quite often

how do you know the spark is safe?

you would need to check whether they give any engineering documentation but then you may need to get it engineered on your car to be legal, I had a Mcdonald bros 4 link years ago and I know at the time the heim joints were not legal in vic but they had an option of nolathane ends, but their set up was mainly for drag racing. If you wanted it for circuit work, ideally you would want something that was similar to the previous V8 supercars, but either way it may be wise to speak to an engineer in your state

are you looking for a legal option and what are you expecting from the four link? I.e. a drag race set up or a good handling suspension etc, the answers to these question could have an impact on the answers you may get

don't waste your money

no it can't, you need to fix what ever is causing the overboost

many issues can not necessarily be seen by eye, even a well trained eye

KPM do not sell ID injectors, they sell their own injectors which are testing the same as ID's, Herrods sell the ID's

ID1000's will fit straight in if supplied with the wiring plug adaptor and will be a lot better injector than the 2 you mentioned, but yes spacing the rail is required for a full length injector like the 60 and 80, obviously the car needs to be tuned before attempting to start the car with an injector change

sorry but the dyno chart does not tell me much about the tune as it does not show boost or afr, but even if it did, that does not mean anyone could tell whether it was a good tune or a bad tune, a bad tune can some times be spotted with the info but no one can tell how good the rest of the tune is

on the weekend we did a 560 klm round trip in Bels G6ET, most of it was open road driving at 100 and 110 kmh but there was quite a few 40, 60 and 80 kmh roadwork zones, we ended up averaging 7.8 l per 100 klms

most the auto GT's we have done end up around 360 rwkw, not all cars perform equally though

I will check as time permits, but the last group buys took up quite a bit of time

"Holley" sticker ahh sorry, that works on old school cars "Unit" sticker seriously though, as others have mentioned, trying to do things cheap can cost you more in the end

what boost do you want to run? and I would suggest a better intercooler, but just my opinion

never seen one spike, but as Adam said you may have had a ECU waiting to die and it jus happened to while being tuned????