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ratter

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Everything posted by ratter

  1. every car we have seen that have jumped, jump both cams
  2. Loctite will not handle the heat, you either have to keep tightening the bolt, or fix it properly
  3. StevenR, these housings crack quite often once tuned, when they crack around the bolt hole, the bolt will continue to come loose, there may be no performance loss though until the bolt actually falls out, some bolts can not fall put though because of the pipe fittings
  4. Although it showed my better gains, we still used a K&N in Bels G6ET, because we can clean and service it on a regular basis rather than replacement. Some aftermarket filters are worse than stock filters
  5. I think some of you guys are missing the point, the Maserati owner although a friendly rivalry, thought that because he had an expensive luxury car, he would be quicker than an old Falcon work ute. So many people disregard what others have and think they are better, this applies to many turbo owners as well, I really think some people we talk to honestly believe that a stock XR6T is the fastest production car in the world and once modded they are even better again
  6. they are probably identical but not genuine
  7. -SteveR- your turbo housing Is most likely cracked
  8. that is cheap if ford are using a ford genuine turbo, they used to be a lot dearer than that years ago, well the BA/F turbo was anyway, we recently replaced a turbo on a G6ET, it can be done for under $2500 but he warranty normally calls for a new oil feed line so I would recommend fitting one of the aftermarket lines and possibly changing the oil and filter while doing it all
  9. our insurance would only cover a repair if it was directly a result from faulty workmanship on something we have done or caused by a part we fitted, it would not cover any cost associated with the faulty part but any damage occurred due to that part failing. Hopefully it works out for you but the mechanic may have to tell some stories to get a repair covered because failing while being diagnosed may not be seen as being his issue, and then you still need to find the cause
  10. A GTX complete ready to fit on is going to be a lot dearer than what you have mentioned, you need a rear housing, you may be able to use yours if it hasn't been damaged, the wastegate port and flapper will require modifications, the front cover needs a boost reference nipple fitted, you need an actuator and will require a custom actuator bracket and the front cover has a 4" opening so a new intake will be required. You will then need a tune and the supporting mods to support the new boost level
  11. so it broke while mechanic was trying to fix the problem, but did he cause the problem?
  12. off the top off my head it was around the 78-80 while the dyno showed 83
  13. replacement sensor also read low but consistant
  14. did Zeitronix get back to you with an acceptable answer?
  15. In my section there is dyno sheets showing the gains with the Kenne Bell fuel pump module, for some reason I can not do links at present
  16. I have the Kenne Bell Boost_A_Spark to try at some stage when I get some time
  17. not a bad idea at all, but check the guide as well as we see these break the slipper part of quite often
  18. some owners have complained about the power change or intermittent idle and we have picked up on the jumped teeth, one FG we had had a bad rattle but one FG had jumped 3 teeth and caused the light to come on intermittently
  19. Clean oil can mean the oil is not doing it's job
  20. sometimes there are no obvious symptoms as the can has closed loop control
  21. the normal FG rough running when cold does not trigger these codes, but it can be tuned out
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