ratter

Some of the turbo's these days are raving about how much power they can produce and still retain factory turbo like spool, but no one has shown a dyno sheet that I have seen showing this with rpm labels on it or even an over lay of the 2 different turbo's, it would be great if they are that good but most things are a compromise

emissions is the reason, except for some Direct injection engines which are normally not readily available in Australia due to our fuel quality pretty sure OEM went away from lean cruise due to NOX gases, cars that have it, have a NOX convertor in the exhaust

OEM did not get it wrong with cruise mixtures, they target lambda for a reason and fuel economy is not the ideal reason

so using HP tuners?

can you put stock injectors back in it and flash a Ford stock tune back into it

are you flashing with HP tuners or from a xcal?

do you realise there's more info in the second post you started?

Jim should be able to sort out as anyone online will only be guessing, no matter how good they are, but your issue almost sounds like an overboost, but as I said, guessing

flashing with HP tuners or reloading a tune from a xcal?

does the car have the stock tune or has it been tuned? Have you done any mods to the car at all, include air box, exhaust etc?

Best stock rebuilder would be A&B, Not all performance builders are doing full reco's at their advertised price

what was the problem then,

I guess anything is possible, highly unlikely but possible, the actual flapper arm is quite strong and I can't see it being bent unless hit by something

if the wastegate is hard wired shut, it eliminates a dodgy port job unless it is held open or the port extends past the actual flapper, I'm sure you would have checked it was closed though before wiring it in that position.

no idea about other shops, you could be spending $6000-$9000 and have to replace your petrol injectors

I have done a couple but not pushed high boost at all, would need to check my dyno to be accurate, but have seen only around the 350-360 rwkw mark, anymore timing they would ping. We have to remember that manifold boost is only a measurement of the extra air the engine could not consume so the rwkw number is a better indication of how it's performing, if the turbo is maxed out the boost will be dropping no matter how strong an actuator is used. pumping 20 psi in it early may not give a higher rwkw number, it just may mean this number is made earlier in the rev range I.e Bels G6ET would make 320+ rwkw at 13 psi, on 15 psi it would still make 320+ rwkw just at earlier rpm

bjc are you saying it was still too slow coming onto boost with the gate wired shut?

orbital system has 0 adjustment available to it so pretty much rules that out for you, JTG has adjustment but the system would need to be modified before even tuning

If your port is done well, you should hopefully have no issues, unless outing a heap of preload on it but that can be largely dependent on the exhaust etc as well

are you using the stock actuator?

I don't think the mono leaf and caltrac would be ideal for road handling either, that set up is more for drags as well. I have no experience with that 4 link, it may be an improvement for road handling as the weight of the leaf springs is removed performance will depend on the arm locations and quality of the shocks

I'm far from an expert but if you wanted to go drag racing that would probably be one of the best set ups you could go, a heim joint would be best but no engineer will pass them for street duties, so a while ago Mcdonald bros was offering a nolathane type joint which some engineers were passing, it offers a lot of adjustment for the ic but to get it to work the best would mean quite a bit of setting up, which is what a lot of people don't do so do not get the best out of it

cheaper to upgrade it while it's still in one piece

yes and yes

making bigger power higher in the rev range will help make it live longer than the power earlier