ratter

Miss firing aand surging can be felt as 2 entirely different things, some people can not tell the difference, yes a coil pack or a plug will cause a miss fire but not a surge. Torque management can do all sorts of things and the main noticeable one is close the throttle, when the throttle is closed the engine receives no boost (as well as no air) so it drops power imediately and then it reopens and gets boost, this can happen constantly and give you the surge feeling. My wifes car was purchased originally to be my development car, we would make changes on the dyno and all would appear ok, then go out on the road and things may play up a little intermittanly, sometimes we would only get torque management issues in only 3rd or 4th gear although I would not be recommending boosting it in 4th, we tried these things to see what would happen. Torque management is just not 1 parameter that is turned off when tuning as many think, there can be a series of different things not even listed as torque control that will affect the final torque management control. Tuners will be like any tradesman, you will get some one who does just enough to get a desired result (final power figure in this case) and others will spend more time to chase drivability and possible problem issues.

Clock spring on the steering column, could explain all your problems

Coil packs or spark plugs will give a consistant miss fire feel but if the throttle is shutting and reopening it will feel like a surge issue. Your tuner has access to the required parameters to change if this is what is happening.

sounds like initially it was the battery or possibly a starter problem, but the short circuit may have done some damage to expensive electrical items, hope it is not too bad, but get an auto elec to look at it rather than guessing and putting parts in that may not be a problem.

Assumimg it's not miss firing, it sounds like another torque management issue shutting the throttle, but guessing is not acceptable enough to rememdy the problem, it needs to be data logged to see what is going on.

there are plenty of places that can mod the turbo wastegate, some better than others, start with your tuner first

good to hear you got it sorted. now you can enjoy it for christmas

as mentioned check the obvious, fuses etc, check operation of brake lights as if they are not working it may be affected, a faulty brake light switch will also stop it from working. If that is all ok, flash the standard tune back into the car, it it now works, you may have a tune based on an incorrect processor code for your car.

To get an accurate idea of what is going on, Actual throttle position needs to be logged. with these cars you can have full throttle at the pedal but the throttle blade may be closed due to some torque control etc, also if commanded position is logged it still may not show what position the blade is at.

is that logging actual throttle position or commanded position and/or is it pedal position?

have you logged throttle position or torque control ? If the ECU is shutting the throttle the boost will drop off like your chart assuming you are logging it from the manifold side of the throttle blade

fair call, it's just you see so may people talk about the et rather the mph that indicates the available power

forget the stop watch, you need to know the cars speed at the end of the 1/4, that will tell you about the power you are making.

to make a fair comparison, they should have been run in the same gear. Although both are used on the same brand of dyno, different models of the software have been used also

Dump her and go out with her best friend or sister!

Don't want to sound rude but your comments remind me of a saying I once heard and totaly believe "You want powerful, reliable and cheap, pick any 2, but you can't have all 3" Good luck with it

so what was the problem?

is your tuner data logging torque management, spark source etc etc? Not knowing the sniper product, does it have access to all torque management settings?

Unless you are thinking of buying the tuning software yourself and then tuning your self, you should be shopping for a tuner that you are comfortable with and then use which ever product they use.

If it is crankcase pressure causing the problem, forcing the dip stick to remain in will cause the pressure to be releived elsewhere, possibly a gasket or a seal will blow.

If the tester notices they are not original he will fail the car, you may be lucky and the tester may not know????

Correct, fitting a different one or even not putting the originals back on in their correct location and direction can cause binding of the cams or even a seized cam. Replacing one would require the cam tunnel to be line bored.

I'm sure they can be gapped.

what plugs did you get? Iridium and Platinum plugs will be damaged by gapping them

has yours always been like this or has it dropped? different tuners will deliver the boost differently, hitting it hard at low RPM is not really a good idea but will make it feel stronger