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Clayton

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  1. Hi everyone, cheers for all the advice and suggestions relating to this issue. After the Injectors were changed to a set of ID1000's and one of Jet's custom tunes, I have seen what is otherwise a "Dead Stock" G6ET become both a fun and really enjoyable car to drive, with so much more poke (266 rwkw / 686 nm). It has been nearly a month now since the changes were made and I have not seen a single hint of the old symptom's returning to haunt me and I now have a vehicle that I no longer dread going out to start and it puts a smile on my face every time I drive it. Thanks Jet, much appreciate your knowledge and skills.
  2. Over the last 12 months I have used multiple tanks of fuel from different sites and brands and even played with different RON ratings along with I don't know how many dozen cans of "in tank" fuel system cleaner to no avail. All this has achieved, is to convince me even more so that in my case it is not a fuel issue, but an ignition / ECM problem (which is backed up by the last visit to my local Ford dealer, although they could not find the cause of the fault). I still clearly remember that when I picked it up from having the 90K service done, being told they had downloaded all the latest software updates to the car and this is when all the crap started happening and so I am with you now that it is more than time to give up on the dealers and find an aftermarket tuner that knows their stuff.
  3. Fantastic news. I guess the next question is, who in Adelaide did you use that actually has good experience with these engines and who knows what they are doing?
  4. No, unfortunately never got given the Compression figures and exhaust is just a nice even "Matt Black" with no discolouration.
  5. Apologies in advance for the following “Novel”. 3 years ago I bought my 2008 FG G6E Turbo (stock Std.) with 60k on it and I had no issues with it until 12 months ago when I had the 90K service done at approx. 82K, due to the age of the vehicle (currently at 95K). The service was done by the selling Ford dealer here in Adelaide and it could be totally coincidental, but just days after the service I noticed an intermittent miss at cold start, that went away after approx. 30 – 45 seconds. At the start, it could be 3 or 4 days before it would do it again and importantly, if let for even 5 or 6 hours it would not do it again. It was only if left overnight, or if it sat at my work for 9 or 10 hours that the fault would return. Even on a 40 degree day, parked in full sun, it would still do it only if left long enough for, what appeared to be a case of the engine returning to normal ambient air temperature. It has never not started, it just idles crap on 1st cold start. I returned to the dealer to discuss possible causes and was advised straight up it was the Battery, which was duly replaced. Over the following weeks it continued to intermittently do it, so the vehicle was then left with the servicing dealer for days at a time over several weeks so they could hopefully replicate the cold start scenario and I even went there many mornings to show them what it was doing and to try and get it to play up whilst they had it. Eventually it did do it in their workshop and then the fun started. I appreciate intermittent faults are hard to find and they had apparently never seen a cold start miss before in a G6ET. The list of checks that were carried out over the following days / weeks, include from memory (not in any order): Battery replaced Fuel Pump / Pressure Regulator checked at start up and overnight for any pressure drop Fuel Rail removed and cleaned Throttle Body cleaned Head Ports checked for “build up” and cleaned Fuel sample sent out for analysis Injectors checked for leakage, cleaned and tested Spark Plugs checked Coils checked Oxygen Sensor checked Latest software downloaded to ECU, although I was also told at the time of the service that the ECU was updated ECU swapped out with another vehicle from their yard for testing Apparently an Engineer from Melbourne also came over and looked at vehicle Compression checked Cylinder Leak Down test CO2 test of cooling sytem After all this and with nothing obvious being found, I was told it was normal and most Falcon Turbos have poor cold idle. This Dealer then refused to return calls and would not even take bookings from me for other work to be done. Over several months the miss got more regular and more severe and would ocassionally last several minutes, until eventually I had the “Check Engine” light display on the dash. Over the next week while I waited for the booking to come around, the dash light actually went on and off by itself several times while being driven. I took the car to another Ford Dealer closer to home, who cleared the codes (there were lots) and they wanted me to drive it until the “Check Engine” light returned so they could see the current codes. When taken back in, they were lucky enough to have it consistently play up and the codes indicated a miss on cylinder 1. They swapped components from cylinder to cylinder and the miss stayed with cylinder 1. After again replicating most of the above tests, although they were sure it was electrical, the only issue they could find was a slight dribble at no 1 Injector when left under pressure overnight and thus it was replaced. The vehicle was flawless for several weeks, although slowly but surely the cold start miss has now returned to being evident 9 out 10 cold starts, although it is nowhere as severe now as it was at its worst point and there have been no further instances of the “Check Engine” light coming on. When starting the car now, I just hold the idle up at 1500 rpm till it clears and then have no further problems while driving. There are no other driveability issues and there is no loss of power or performance in any way even under really hard acceleration from low or high speed. You can probably guess how much I have already spent on this issue, but I have some more coin saved up, ready to start looking further again. Has anyone ever come across this or a similar issue, or have any ideas on what I need to just start replacing regardless of how good it may test out? Or do I stick with my current philosophy of just drive it until it stops and the problem eventually becomes glaringly obvious? Any suggestions or feedback will be appreciated.
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