HI PSI

How much was the the NIzpro cooler?

OK....... I am not a critic and this response is not intended to offend any party. I do not agree with a lot of statements made earlier. I do agree that these woofers are not the ones to be used with this amplifier as the amplifier will see the wrong inpedance. This will affect power output, therefore affecting walue for money and sound quality. In my personal opinion, (And this is not being brand biased in any way) I would look at comething like a set (2)of Alpine SWR-1222D'S (Sealed Box Vol 25 Litres each Box must have partition seperating each sub) or if you're on a budget a set of Alpine SWS-1241 ( 28 Litres each as per woofer with partition) For the sake of lesser typing, I will refer to Dual Voice coils as DVC. * DvC woofers do not use more power than single voice coil woofers that has the same power rating. Dvc woofer do not put more load on you amplifier unless you run the woofers at a lower impedence. Run it at it's 2Ohm rating will not reduce its life expectancy. Less resistance = more power output and consumption from the amplifier. It will merely be running at the impedance that it was designed to run, so you can get the full potential out of the amplifier. * DVC subwoofers have as it states, 2 voice coils. 1 winding at the top and bottom. Doing this allows the woofer to be better controlled as it has 2 magnetic fields working with each other instead of 1. Distortion *To simplify audio distortion I will compare it to your engine in your "T". If you hold your accelerator to the floor and it's not getting enough petrol. What does it do ?? It starts to miss because it is no longer running on all cylinders and does not have controlled detonation. Powering a woofer is exactly the same. The Amp will start to clip ( run out of power/Starve for fuel ) and the cone starts to lose control of its movement. resulting in distortion. People seem to think that, if they put in a higher powered speaker/woofer it will be LOUDER..... BRTTTT... WRONG...[/b] It will do exactly the opposite as it needs more power for it to run at it's full potential and therefore distort easier and earlier. You M UST match you system. Just the same as you do your intercooler, exhaust, injectors ETC... Getting the Jist yet ??? When choosing any amplifier and Woofers/Speakers. Ask for their NOMINAL or RMS power ratings. This is what the true power output of the amplier is and the power needed to run you Woofers/Speakers to their full potential. For gods sake, Make sure that the box is made out of MDF (18mm minium) and is sealed/Air tight. If it isn't it WILL destroy the woofers if it isn't. If you're not technicall inclined please see a professional and get a custom box made to suit the vehicle. It will fit and sound better. I will try to get a few pics in the next few days, to give you some ideas. I recommend that you buy as big a amp as you can afford as this will dictate the quality of sound and loudness.A mono amplifier will be more efficient and provide you with a higher output than a 2 chanel amplifier. Mono blocks are solely designed to run Subwoofers. I have placed below the specs for the Amplifier that you selected. Note the 1200w MAXIUM. It is really a 600w Rms/Nominal amplifier. The GM-6300F is a 4 x 60 Rms Nominal amplifier. Which is a bit lower than what I would use myself. What are they worth $$$$ wise ???? PLease take in mind that overpowering a well tuned system will not destory the speakers or woofers. I have had 1100w RMS running through 300w Rms woofers. 150 rms through 50 w speakers. Please ensure that Mono block has an adjustable Low Pass crossover networks. The 4 Ch must have an adjustable High pass crossover network. If it doesn't, Don't buy it. as this is crutial to tuning the amplifiers. http://www.pioneer.eu/eur/products/25/29/1...400M/specs.html Use a quality power supply and please be sure to use a fuse as close to the battery as possible. Also replace the earth from the battery to the chassis and the engine to the chassis (Minium 2 Gauge to be used). Run a minium 2 gauge power supply to the amps and the the same for the earths for the amps with this setup. When running 2 amplifiers, earths the amps to one point (both together) as it reduces the difference in potential. Failing to do so will result in a WHIRR noise when you rev the engine (Extremely annoying). At the shop, we always earthed our amps under tha back seat. We drilled a new hole(Be sure to earth it on the right hand side, Fuel tank is on left) take all the paint away with sand paper, screw down amp lead terminals and then paint over. If you a few spare $$ buy a 1 farrad capacitor. It is a very worthwhile investment. Speakers * 1 Do not put component speakers in the rear Why , you say ??? Because it is an absolute waste of money as any spekers placed in the rear parcel shelf will give you a Mono signal. Put in an average quality(Brand name) Coaxial speakers instead. The rear parcel shelf is the easiest area to get sound from as the sound waves reflects forward off the rear screen at a level that is close to ear height. I could eloborate greatly about changing speaker location. I will not as I assume that you will be using the factory location. Therefore it is not justified. 2. The front of the car is the hardest area of the car to get sound from because sound is directional and the woofers are mounted alot lower than head height. This is why you put the most amplified power and best speakers in the front. With the savings from the rear speakers, get a set of GOOD components (Alpine SPR-17s) in the front. Midbass performance in this area is critical. Hence my recommendation of the Alpines. I really need more details about you car as I need to determine where to mount the tweeters and what angle. Does it have Premium sound already? I've had a very big day. So I willleave it at that for now. If you have any queastions at all please feel free to ask. I apologise for any typo's as I really can't be bother to proof read it at the moment... Let me know if you have Premium sound or not and I will comment further. I hope that this has helped

The amp will be fine to run. I would presume that the amp is 2 Ohm stable so just make sure that you get the right impedance woofers. Are the woofer single or dual voice coil (1 or 2 sets of terminals on each woofer)? Is the enclosure going to be ported or sealed? Let me know what make and model the woofers are and I'll run it through my Bassbox program... Install an aftermarket headunit as it will offer higher quality sound and control.

A bit off topic, But I thought that you may appreciate it..... Found it in a friends garage... VXRse Screaming eagle drag bike. 1 Of 600 made and never to be produced again... Brand new and has never been started..

Thank you very much for the contact details. I will contact them on Monday.

I assumed that porting of the housing referred to the enlarging of the port where the flapper seats. I am not really concerned about getting it extrude honed. I am really just wanting it bored and the bigger flapper fitted. Who does the mods. Can you suggest anyone?

I have weighed up the Pro's and Con's of the external and internal wastegate mods. I I have decided to get my internal wastegate modded as I cannot justify the extra cost just yet. I may still go down the external path at a later date as I have purchased a spare housing. Mailny so that the car will be off the road for a minimal amount of time. I did a search and found no information on who actually does these modifications or the costs involved? Who have you used?? How much did it cost? What was the turnaround time? Thanks in advance... Cheers Brad

HI PSI (HIGH PSI) They are the plates on my car..

Before i commit to purchasing one of these kits.... Could you please tell me your experiences. 1- What kit did you purchase?? 2- Was there a noticeable difference? 3- Is te mod worth it? Thanks guys...

I have a single din kit fitted to my car. It's made by DNA audio and it's part no. is WHF103.. They fit very well and the colour match is very close. It is very easy to install and looks factory. These retail for aroud $80-$90. I have attached a pic of my player installed, so that you may make an educated decision. I hope that this helps..

Mine must be coming by carrier pigeon, and it must have a strong head wind !!!! I still don't have mine...

January would be the best time for me too !!!!

I saw this the other day... I miss my Ex..... But my aim is getting better

I just read the news report and comments on Australia Ford Forums... It is truely a sad day when people get cheers out of such an event. I really feel for him and his family. I am sure that we can all relate to pain that they are now suffering. I have lost much also. How about you??? Maybe instead. We as Aussie's should show some compassion and support our heroes and role models that inspire our children and us adults also. Go get'm Skaifey. Don't let the fat cats beat you. Even though I am a Ford man... I'd pay good money to see you back again.. You are a true gentleman in a world full of vilians and tyrany.

I'm looking at purchasing a new set of forgies is the next week or so and I am needing some advice as to what the best compression ratio would be for the "T". I have just bought a new block from Fraud for $788. I'm looking at a set of Spool rods or the set of Parr's that were on ebay. I will only push the new engine as much as the factory turbo will let me. So 400 rwkw absolute max. What pistons do you recommend? Any help would be greatly appreciated

My BAII sedan is on King Sl's. I have a camber kit installed with the maxium amount of shims that we can fit in. I am just shy of neutral camber. I have a very even tyre wear. My alignment has a 2mm total toe in... Do you brake extremely hard and late with your ute??? I used to get bad wear on the inside of my tyres from very hard breaking. It was caused by soft lower control arm bushes. The front wheels moving rearwards (Suprised me how much) under heavy load. Get a mate to hit the anchors hard at 20-30km/h and see for yourself.. I had Nolothane bushes fitted and it has seemed to have fixed the problem. The car now rides a bit rougher and I do get a little feedback (vibration) through the steering wheel. Being normal ride height, you should not require a camber kit. I would recommend that you get a second opinion on wheel alignment. The shop that fitted my camber kit did an alignment and a set of tyres were shagged in 5000k's. It took me a few goes to find a good aligner that knew what they were doing. Good luck..

Paid... Pm sent with screenshot of deposit... Thanks again for the group buy. It is truely appreciated. Now, all I need is a cooler and cold side.... LOL !!

I will be starting to build my new engine (New block, Spool rods with Cp's) within the next 2 months. I will give the engine in my BAii bottom end a bit of boost as it is stock at the moment. I almost have everything that I need except a cooler and piping. Siemens, Dual 2 1/2 exhaust with 4' dump, Actuator, Walbro pump Mal wood stage, Atomic cams I will be looking for around 400 Rwkw max. So the standard turbo will be fine. Like I stated earlier, I have a spare turbo exhaust housing. So hacking it isn't a real concern. I just want to justify the extra expense of the external gate and dump pipe alterations. My car is a 6 speed manual. I know it won't make a 10 and I'm not wanting to enter Horsepower heroes. I just wanna give the Ricers up here in their "sh*tBOX SKYLINES" a bit of grief. Is the money better spent somewhere else? edited due to fat finger syndrome.. (typo's)

Hi guys and gals. I have just purchased a spare secondhand housing. I will be building a new bottom end and I have a few questions about external wastegates before I proceed any further. I openly admit that this is an area that I have little/No knowledge. So please be gentle... I have done a few searches and have not been able to find any information on this forum. Any help greatly appreciated. 1) Which is better (Value for money) ? 2) Is an external gate only necessary for extremely high powered engines? 3) Is there any power gains/losses from using either? 4) If I get an external wastegate mod. How will this affect different boost levels with my different tunes? Does the boost level get adjusted by the PCM or does it have to adjusted manually by changing springs in the blow off valve? 5) I already have a new 12 pound actuator sitting here . Will a modded internal gate be sufficient? 6) Can anyone advise me as to the cost of both methods? Thank you for you time and advice Cheers Brad

[quote name='straughsberry' post='765083' date='Nov 10 2008, 11:59 AM']I'd be interested in a plenum GB depending on the saving and timing.[/quote] +1

I would also like mine powdercoated black with black silicon hose also please. Thank you

The best I can d/l in a day is 13GB. This computer runs 24/7. I never run out of things to D/l. I am a member of a few high level torrent sites that keep me well entertained. I originally got into to downloading due to having Tv's in my car... I have a lots of stuff... It is not illegal to share Porn as it has no copywrit. It is not illegal to download movies or music by Australian law. However it is illegal to share, distribute or make available (showning/screening) for public performance. One day the laws will change. I understand that Australia is closely watching what happens in the U.K. they have made the I.S.P's responsible (liable) for the content that their users download. Until the laws change I will make the most of the $90 P/M. Long live the constitution...

I would get ADSL2 if any Isp had bigger download limits. I'm only on a 1.5mb/256kb connection and download around 200Gb total of movies, games and music dvd's per month. The best I have done is 235Gb. I'd blow a 60Gb cap in a few days and have to live with 56k connection for the rest. Fark that.... I pay $90 P/month for true 1500/256 unlimited. If I could get a better plan I might change..... Look at how much I have downloaded today.. 11.2Gb in 22Hrs...

I was just reading about your car on Australia ford forums.... Nice job mate.. Did you change the cooler??? Do you still have it?

If you really think about it. These people with their extremist religion do not fear death. If indedd they did commit the crime they would be martyrs. This is what what they would want.. Appealing the conviction would contradict the action and the intent behind it. This leads me to the assumption that they (The supposed Bali bomber) might actually be innocent and be the fall guys. Let's face it. An innocent man will do whatever possible to prevent the execution...They had to have someone to blame... The world needed someone. We needed someone too... Don't take it the wrong way. If I had their beliefs and I went and blew the f*ck out of something. I wouldn't be pleading for my life.... Unless I was innocent.... I sincerely hope that they were guilty... Just food for thought....