HI PSI

I have not been keeping up with the new gear that has been released. Which is the most efficient turbo for pushing over 500 rwkw now?

I purchased my 2005 BA II in 2006, with 8,500km on the dial. It has now done 205,000km. I guess that my usage may not be classified as normal, as I regularly do around 1,300km a fortnight, as a round trip from home to work. In this time, the car has never left me stuck on the side of the road, other than when I lunched a few engines. And those were caused by a generic tune and a bit of abuse. Given the large amount of km's done in my car, it has had parts replaced due to normal wear and tear (And I drive it hard too). I replaced the wheel bearings at 140k, rebuilt the centre at 180k (due to pinion bearing noise), CV shafts at 180k. ball joints and few sets of rear upper control arm bushes, replaced the King springs and standard shocks with Pedders coilovers at 160k, A centre bearing, an alternator and a Mal wood option 3 clutch. Keeping in mind, the large amount of K's the car has done, my stepfather (Owner/proprietor of a Auto Trans business for 35yrs) drove it the other day. he could not believe how well it drove. He stated, "it drove like new". Obviously I do regular servicing : Engine: Mobile 1 Synthetic every 10k Gearbox (6 Speed manual) - Castrol Transmax Z - 40k Diff - Castrol SAX-FA Synthetic - 40k Despite the K's, I still love the car to death. It still serves me well and I would be more than comfortable to drive form QLD to WA tomorrow. Regular servicing is where it's at.....

Hi Daryn, would you be able to tell me what size head stud the engine was running?

I recently purchased these.

Wow !! What a way to welcome a new member.... I feel quite embarrassed and disheartened for having asked Daryn to post about the car. Sorry mate !! I was fortunate enough to purchase the exhaust from "the car" off Daryn. I drove from Brisbane to its location to collect it and while there , he was kind enough to show me the disassembled engine. All I can say, is that the design of the head and its rocker assembly is "unique" to say the least. Given that I have never seen or heard of the integration of the parts utilised, I can only assume that given its design and quality of machining, that it would not be out of place in Spiko's car. While there Daryn offered to show me the car, however, due to time constraints, I declined. After following the cars progress over time, I really wish that I had...

Hey bud, welcome to the forum. It was a pleasure to meet you and talk about the car. The concepts in the design and fabrication of the components literally blew my mind. It is unfortunate that we did not get to see it at the full potential, as Spiko intended it.... Thank you for taking the time to post about the car and its fate, I sincerely hope that the search for the missing parts yields results. I also hope that you will continue to update us with your experiences and progress as you continue to rebuild the car. I am sure that others will enjoy it also... Btw, I had a good look at the exhaust this morning. The quality of workmanship is amazing to say the least. It is a shame that it is hidden under the car. All the best.. Brad

Sorry Obsty, I am no longer considering using yates heads. I ordered a set of CHI's instead, as they will work with the manifold. Thanks anyway. Brad

Hi, tonight I tried to reply on my thread and add a picture. The picture is hosted on Photobucket and when I try to add the pictures link, it pastes into the box, but will not go any further. I will not allow you to get out of it either.. You have to close the page.. Could you please look into this?? I have also just noticed that you cannot paste anything when replying also.. As the page closed, the post was added to the thread and cannot be edited. Could you please delete post 11 and 12 for me please? The link is: http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/topic/87091-yates-c3-high-port-heads-on-a-cleveland Cheers Brad

Hi all, thank you for taking the time to reply to my questions. I have a small update.. I arrived home today and spoke to my local engine builder. You confirmed a lot of what you have all said, and to be honest it scared me somewhat as to the potential hidden costs involved. The main reason that I was looking at the Yates heads, is that I want to fit a cross ram manifold (Pictured - dummy fitted to previous owners engine) that I purchased some time ago. Until recently, I did not know that the Yates heads are basically the same as normal Cleveland heads (CHI's etc.)

Primarily the it will be used as a street/strip application in my weekender (XF Fairmont Ghia). The main reason that I am looking to go to the Yates heads , is that I have a Morrison Cross Ram manifold that I would like to run. As the manifold was designed and run with this style of head, I assume that this would be the only way that I could run it. Could it fit one of the heads styles that you listed in your earlier post? I recently contacted a gentleman that sells ex supercar equipment. He has two variants of the high port heads that he is willing to sell. The earlier version has smaller valves and utilises the standard style rocker gear. and the other has the Jesel style. I understand the costs involved with the Jesel style rockers, but as they will be complete heads (Rockers, titanium valves etc.) this is not a concern. With these two choices, I have two areas of concern. Will there be enough clearance for the valves with the cylinders, as the heads (Newer ex supercar style) were built for the Windsor 4.125' bores. Will using the older style heads reduce horsepower, compared to the newer style.Pistons are another issue, I am hoping that I can source and machine a set to accommodate a suitable compression for 98 ron premium unleaded. What are your thoughts? Brad

Hi all, I am looking to put a set of Yates C3 high port heads on a Cleveland. Could you please provide some input as to the potential problems that I may run into. I have very little practical knowledge with engines and I cannot find much info on the net. Cheers Brad

Book marked. Thank you for the awesome write up.

Hi all, I just purchased a 2010 kx450f from a police auction. Unfotunately the bike had been stored out in the weather after it was siezed and it still had mud all over it. As you could well understand this has stained all of the alloy frame and engine casing. I have scrubbed alot of the frame with reasonable success, however, there is still brown staining in some areas. the motor itself is next to impossible to do without removing the engine and I am looking for a less physical way to do it. What would be the best way to removed the stains and buildup, are there any chemicals that would give me a better result and would be less labor intensive? Cheers Brad

Is it necessary to replace both mounts, as only one mount would be likely to fatigue due to torsional forces? Brad

One would think that the dyno run in question would have been logged. Would this not prove or disprove the claims of the tuner ? Just a thought....

After 180,000 km's it looks like the old CV's have had the goat. I have had a bit of a google around and have not really had any success in finding some replacements. RThe car currently has 343rwkw and I will look at upgrading again soon. Can anyone share their expereinces and advice on what to purchase and where to source it? Cheers.

Jim replace my centre bearing for me. We talked about carbon fibre shafts while we were there. Sounds interesting but I am concerned about vibration from a one piece shaft..

Hmm.. New Process West plenum and cooler would be nice...

Thank you for all of the replies. The unavailability of the necessary parts is/was causing me quite alot of distress as I paid a small fortune purchasing second hand. It is good to know this information... I have genuine DJR pods, skirts here that were painted when the car was resprayed. I later sourced fornt and rear carbon inserts from Fibresports. I guess that it may be time for a transformation and come out with some spare change... I will keep you all posted... Edited due to typo.

I have started to contact members (Those with obvious usernames) by PM and am yet to have any luck, Despite offering cash or crownies. :-( I am curious to know how FPV could track the cotact information etc of owners who are not the original purchasers ?

I am more than happy to pay money,buy cartons or whatever else takes your fancy for the help. I do however need the Info quickly as the panel beater is running out of room in his shed and is threatening to put the car outside... The panel beater told me this also..... Hence my request.. Thank you.. I love the car to bits... Thanks !! I hadn't thought of them... I will keep that as a last resort. Thank you for all of the replies...

Late last week as I was traveling back from work (Central Queensland) when one of my greatest fears came true. With oncoming traffic approaching a Wallaby hopped into the path of my car (BAII Turbo). With no room to avoid the collision the car recieved moderate damage. I managed to limp the car home and lodged an insurance claim immediately. As the car is insured with AAMI with all modifications secified and coverd I felt at ease. This was to be short lived..... The car is now in the shop and the repairer called today stating that he cannot appropriate a new Typhoon Bumper cover, Insert or Bezels as I require a V.I.N number as they (FPV) are very strict on the sales of replacement panels. I am now at my witts end as I have scanned Ebay and other forums in the search for a replacement. I know that it is a huge ask but could someone please help me order the replacement parts? I am willing to do anything to get the car as it was... Here are some pictures of the car prior and after the accident.

Ford prices were over 1k for the bearing kits and $950 for the clutch packs from memory..

Full rebuild kit: 2 x Pinion bearings 2 x carrier bearings 2 x axel bearings 1 x clutch pack kit all seals, o'rings etc $545 delivered. :sungum:

When I fitted my Process West Surge tabnk and 044 on I had a very rough idle and intermittant stalling. This was caused by the filter (Mesh) in the fuel reg being blocked with crap. As soon as this was fixed, normal idle was achieved. Just a thought.... Good luck.