HI PSI

I looked at weld on's for the pump, but, there was no gain for me. As the distance of the weld on and a 90 degree fitting, ended with a similar result as the factory line. Space is a premium on the driver's side of my car. So, every inch that I save makes it easier to fit/run the other components.

Necessity is the mother of invention, and I just hate doing dodgy work. Do it right, do it once, it takes about the same amount of time.... Besides, it's not difficult...

It has always been my plan to modify the power steering piping. So, I have been playing with the power steering lines amongst other thing over the past few days. AS most would already be aware, a lot of the pressure lines leak where is junctions into the power steering pump, and the shape of the line and location of the pressure switch is a real pain in then arse when running big intakes. So, here is what we did..... This is a brand new factory line that I purchased with the intention of replacing the old one. It is a sh*tty design, so we decided to manufacture our own, to eliminate the aforementioned problems. After consulting a local gentleman that did quite a bit of engineering for Ford, we decided to cut up the old line and utilise some of the parts . Not much point in cutting up a new one... OK, Inside the pressure line is a restrictor. The restrictor runs inside the rubber hose on the pressure line. It is press fitted into the end of each fitting and this apparently stops surge and hammering in the line and stops it feeding back through the steering wheel. Here is a pic of the restrictor and one of the press fittings from which it was fitted to... As the power steering fluid flows only through the restrictor, I made a -6 teflon line (Shown two pictures above) which is made so that the restrictor it pressed hard against each fitting. We manufactured an extension and silver soldered it to the remaining factory hard line that connects to the rack, as the teflon line with the restrictor fitted was 100mm short. We soldered on a -6 fitting to match the new line. We tapped the Power steering pump, to take a -10 blank fitting. We drilled the blank and tapped a thread into it, so that a -6 bango fitting could be screwed into it. We also fitted a -6 to 1/8 npt gauge fitting, so that the power steering pressure sensor could be fitted. This allowed my to place the sensor wherever I liked. Here is the result... The return line was also modified and rerouted so that it could be rerouted to the remote power steering canister, which is mounted next to the brake master cylinder- (Previously pictured in a previous post). Not a pic of the reshaped item, but you get the hint....

Really keen to hear your thoughts on these, as my springs have sagged and need replacing.....

I finished mounting the fuel reg today.

With the engine bay becoming increasingly short of space, I found it incredibly difficult to find a suitable place for the fuel regulator. Given it's size and the fact that -10 lines must run too and from the reg, I could find only one area in the engine bay to mount it. The area around the ECU gives me the best and easiest route for the fuel lines, however there is very little that it can be mounted to.... With this in mind, we made a mount that will double as a blanking plug for the regulator. It will be angle cut to match the ECU frame and a thread tapped into it so that it can be bolted to the frame from it inner side. I will post more pics tomorrow when I get those stages completed.

It has been some time since I last posted, so I thought that I would post up what I have done since..... We modified the SS Inductions billet throttle body. As it was designed for naturally aspirated applications, it has a straight where the silicon joins. So we manufactured an alloy ring which has a knurl and shrunk it onto the throttle body.. I didn't like the way that the line gets bent back to fit the larger cooler, so we cut the line, welded in some fittings and fabricated a telfon line. This is how it came out......

Hi, I have purchased a 3 bar MAP sensor for my new engine (BA I6 Barra). Has anyone have any experience with these and have any of the information for the voltage range? EG: All map sensor work within the the same voltage range 0.5 to 4.9 volts 1 BAR 0.5V = 1 BAR neg, 4.9V is 0 BAR 2 BAR 0.5V = 1 BAR neg, 2.75V = 0 BAR, 4.9V = 1 BAR pos 3 BAR 0.5V = 1 BAR neg, 2V = 0 BAR, 3.5V = 1 BAR pos, 4.9V = 3 BAR pos

Glad to see that the build is still progressing. Just remember to be patient, as it always takes longer than expected (or planned) to get things done, and that quality work takes time. Keep us posted on your progress. :D

I think that my T56 won't be up to the task for my new engine. So, I am currently looking to build a TH400 to replace it. I am looking to build the TH400 to handle 1000+ hp and I would appreciate any advice on components that would make it reliable at this power level.

My engine guy expressed these same concerns with my air box, as the gaps around the headlights may be insufficient for unrestricted airflow. I too will have to wait to get onto the dyno to test it.

As the catch can will be a vented variety, it will be mounted out of sight. The only space that I have left is down on the chassis rail, on the passengers side on the car. I have contemplated venting it back to the turbo intake and I will be investigating it further tomorrow.

Unfortunately, I have already purchased an Oddyssey PC1220 for the car.

Some updates of the engine bay..... We are changing the rocker covers that I have previously pictured, as I want the cover to look smooth and uncongested. the two -12 breathers will now be exiting the rocker cover form the side of the rocker cover on the passengers side of the car. These will run parallel with the rocker cover to the rear of the engine and to a catch can which will be mounted where the old Process West surge tank used to reside. More pics to come.....

I traveled back home today and visited my engine guy on the way through. When I was home last, we had identified a problem the SS inductions throttle body. As the unit was initially designed for naturally aspirated engines, it did not have a knurl on the lip where the silicon hose attaches. As you can see below the picture below, the mounting surface if relatively thin and do not have a knurl to help hold the hose on. Given the amount of boost that we want to run through this thing, we would forever have problems keeping the silicon hose attached. So, a ring was machined from some billet and shrunk onto the throttle body. Once again, he has done an amazing job, with the resulting mod looking factory. Despite have an insatiable desire to get the car running and my butt in the seat. I realise that quality work takes time, and to see quality work like this, certainly makes the wait worth while......

After rereading my previous post I realised that I had used incorrect term. It wasn't reversion, it was pulse from the ports that was playing havoc with the MAP sensor. I will discuss your concern with my engine guy, when I get home tomorrow. Thanks for the feedback.

We considered this when the problem presented itself. I was fortunate to speak with a friend who had a Nitto plenum about the topic. While his car was being tuned (By Phil Laird), they indentifie reversion from the runners were effecting the Map sensor (which was near the rear of the plenum). To rectify this, they remounted the map to the front of the plenum, as far from the runners as possible. I guess that time will tell, if you are correct. Btw, thanks for fixing my pics. ☺

I can't seem to get the pictures to insert properly from my phone. Could a Mod please fix it for me and delete this post? As I would like to make it as easy as possible for members to view.

Than you for the support. It is greatly appreciated. As I'm back at work, I only get a few days a fortnight to work on the car. My engine guru completes the technical stuff while I'm away. So this helps to keep it moving along. The hot side is completely finished and we are working on the turbo induction. We decided to put the blow off valve on the hot side, so that we could keep it neater. We were considering the cold side, but we were concerned by the length of 2" required to get it across the other side of the car would be a restriction. This also reduces congestion in the engine bay. In this pic, we have placed a 4", 45 degree silicon elbow. So that we can work out where the intake will run and what we need to complete the task. A 5" stainless elbow had been ordered and should have arrived today. This is a the spacer that I had Plazmaman make to rectify the MAP sensor issue. It will be place between the plenum entry and the throttle body. It was supposed to be O'ringed by them, but as you can see, it was sent without this bring completed. However, they were kind enough to send the O'rings with it. Just another unnecessary frustration.......

I am not utilising the standard fuel lines, regulator or filter. The system comprises of: 1/2" teflon feed and return line Fuellab Race series regulator -10 inlet and return Aeroflow fuel filter - AF66-2043S -12 fittings Dimensions - 7" x 2-1/2". Aeroflow AF59-2431 - 10 micron stainless mesh filter and I have designed the whole build with efficiency in mind and I'm hoping that these components will provide adequate efficiency and unload the pumps

Very interesting. If it wasn't such a hassle to get the module out, I would test the draw myself.

Unfortunately, the KPM module only has one power input and the pumps power is paralled internally. Therefore, this option is not available.

KPM 1500 hp module - Two Walbro 460's

I didn't. At my request, Dave at KPM calculated the current draw and provided the figure. I do not have any knowledge of the field, and I would appreciate a second opinion.

Research has indicated that the two pump running at 18 volts would have a current draw of around 47 amps. Given the Kenne Bell boosters having a maximum draw of 40 amps, this option is not practical. It seems that my only other option would be to fabricate a new tank and build addition pumps an surge into it. Time will tell if the curent system will be up to the task