HI PSI

Hi Luke, is there any chance that you could give me a rundown on the process and what is needed to perform the task this way?

Not yet...

Yes. Testing will be conducted in the sunshine state. I know how you feel with pulling the manifold off. I will be donating my Plazzy for the test. I'm not looking forward to pulling it out, as it was a pain in the arse even when nothing else had been installed. I'm really keen to see the results though..

Haven't spoke to Daryn in a while. I'll get back to you... :D

Same car.

I am running a GTX 4202r on my rig, with a 1.01 split pulse rear housing.

Sorry mate, I didn't see your post until now. I'm not sure of the clamp force of the option 5 clutch. I spoke to Mal about it before I installed it. At the time, I wasn't going to use E85, so the clutch was more than suitable at the time. I have called him again since, and he said that it should have enough clamp to handle power runs, but blatant abuse would be detrimental to its life expectancy. I'm not overly cruel to the car anyway and I have never taken ot to the drags, so my driveline has lived a sheltered life. I am considering giving it a run, but I am reluctant, as I know that I will get booted.. Kind of defeats the purpose of going... I have had no end of bad luck with this bloody clutch dilema. as above, I pulled the box and clutch and fixed the bolt issue. Refitted the box and realised that I forgot to install the sandwich plate. So I pulled it again and fixed that. Left the car on the hoist and collected the next day, only to have fluid pissing out of the bell housing when I went to leave. Pulled the box again, only to find that the CSC seal had somehow been pushed past the end of the shaft. Fixed it and refitted box and bled system, only to find that I have a real sh*tty pedal and only 3/4 clutch activation. For the lifeof me, I cannot work out why... I kinda lost my sh*t after that and it has been left sitting untouched in the garage ever since.. Gotta love cars.....

I got sent some pics of the 3D printed plenum today. All I can say is that it looks schmick.. The owner is currently sourcing a cnc to get a billet one made. I am VERY keen to get one for myself, So I've asked him to get a price to get two made... I believe that the retail version will be cast versions (Alloy, I believe....) and I have asked him get a price on some magnesium versions, with the view to minimising weight. I'll keep you posted on further developments and release photo's when the owner permits.

Keith is pretty much on the money with the boost/rpm on the 42. I'm starting to see positive pressure at 2,200rpm with 20 psi at 3,300. Keep in mind that we haven't played with the cam timing yet. So I'm sure that we can lower it some more. The 42 pulls like a freight train to my 6,500 rpm limit (Will be 7k soon) and still wants to keep going. The difference between a 42 and the 35, is that the 42 doesn't fall over in the top end... I guarantee that you would LOVE a 42

Imagine what would happen if sh*t hit that fan...

Lol @ 4tb NAS. I have 54tb htpc just for movies.

Keep some bandaids handy. Braid is very good at making you bleed. Lol

Having been down this road myself, I can certainly related to the way that you're feeling right now. I don't think that the majority realise how much time and effort goes into a build. Especially if you are planning for something that is aesthetically pleasing and reliable reliability. It took me over 14 months to get my car to the stage that it would run and as I work away from home, I spent more that half of my R&R each fortnight working on it. In the end, you lose the passion and it becomes a chore. Only now, that we have started doing dome road tuning, that I have started to smile. I still have a way to go (Cosmetically) before I can class the car as finished, but the end is in sight. Stay the line with quality of the components being used and the work being performed. Keep at it mate, in the end the rewards will be ongoing.

I plumbed my rail and reg differently to what you have planned. I have two feed lines, each going to each end of the rail. The middle port on the rail goes to the reg. This helps to reduce pressure drop across the rail. It might also pay to go with larger lines, to future proof further upgrades. :D

We only torqued the bolts to 85nm and we used moly lube as per normal. We also machined a slot from the bolting surface, to reduce friction of the bolts head on the flywheel. Fingers crossed that the problem is gone for good. :D

I was very lucky, as there was a very small amount of metal transferred to the flywheel. We resurfaced the flywheel and filed the crank to ensure flat surfaces. I know what you're saying about the clutch. For that reason, I am very kind to it. No big launches or fanning the clutch at all. It will be interesting to see if it has enough clamp force, to handle the increased torque when the car gets a feed of E85.

I managed to get some time to work on the car yesterday, so I pulled the box out to investigate the source of the clutch problems. When I released the pressure plate and clutches something feel to the ground. I must say that I was a little surprised at what I found. We believe that the bolts ARP bolts were thread bound on the bolt shank and had not correctly fastened the flywheel. This had caused it to fatigue and eventually fail. Luckily for me, there was only very minor damage to the crank and flywheel. I sourced some 12.9 alley key bolts and refitted the box. Total cost of repair was about $20.

When you refer to "Ideas" are you referring to custom made parts? I have a few ideas also, all I need is a car and some time..... T here never seems to be enough of the latter, but that may change soon as my current project (Work) finishes in two weeks. So, I hoping to put that time to good use. :D Your question (Making moulds) is one of those "how long is a piece of string" varieties. Making moulds is a rather simple process. However, the complexity (Shape) and size of the part being produced will determine the time and resources required. Making custom parts and plugs (part made from scratch), are the most costly and time intensive. Primarily, this is the reason that a lot carbon parts are expensive. After you pull the part/plug from the mould, you then have to do a lot of prep work (Sanding and polishing), to ensure that the parts produced are free from flaws and defects. As for the materials, my carbon and consumables are sourced from Brisbane.

Countless hours spent on the bloody thing. But I can see the light at the end of the tunnel. I'm sure that you understand exactly how I feel. Btw, I check out your thread all of the time. You are doing a magic job with the build. Your patience and persistence is inspiring. Keep up the great work.

As mentioned in my reply to Luke, I will be making a variety of true carbon parts. My main drive behind it, is that I will be making sets for myself. I would definitely prefer to make the whole part, as it is a far easier process, but I have been hindered by not being able to source the mounts and clips for the interior parts. I have spent a lot of time trying to source them through my carbon supplier. they literally have thousands of varients and to date I have been unsuccessful and finding the correct style. Hence, why I am wrapping mine for the interim. As Soon as I can get them, true carbon ones will be made. As mentioned in my reply to Luke, I will be making a variety of true carbon parts. Some will be carbon copies, with some being custom made to suit a purpose.

The carbon wrapping should see about 1-2 mm thickness increase. I will be wrapping all parts around the edges and for this exact reason is why I ordered a alternate bagging material, that has significantly more stretch. this will allow me to pull in the tight areas around the vents and controls, as these areas need to be cut close to the piece, to allow the turns in the corners. I might post a pic later, to show what I am referring to. I am yet to work out any pricing on doing any of this. As I was primarily looking at only doing my stuff just for myself. But, I am happy to do some for fellow enthusiast... I'll sort out some prices when I complete mine... You really have to, to ensure that they will fit and have to correct gaps etc. As previously mentioned in my thread, I purchased my carbon DJR splitters and the front wouldn't fit because it had a twist. this stuff has next to no flex at all, so making the majority of the mould on the car is essential. I did the same when I made the new DJR mould last fortnight.

I'm always keen to try new things Luke. Luckily for you, I will be doing some of the parts mentioned for myself, so I cannot see a problem in making another set. Which front and rear insert's were you referring to, as I have brand new BF GT and Typhoon front inserts here that I will use to make the mould. Unfortunately, I only have a BF GT rear insert and bezels, so I hope that's what your after..... I'm hoping to make some moulds over the weekend. However, this will be subject to sorting my clutch issue tomorrow. As I need to fit the genuine bars and inserts to the car to make the mould. As this will ensure that it is the correct shape and fitment.

It's the same as normal resin infusion. I have however used a different bagging material, that is much more pliable and stops bridging. I was planning on doing some this weekend, but my bagging connectors didn't arrive with the rest of my order.

I think that it has to be something simple, as we're not pushing big power and it didn't slip at all... Yeah, it took a few runs to get the timing sorted. As we were putting a degree at a time.. Surprisingly enough, she didn't let go once. Those Nitto Invo's as pretty sticky little suckers.

Thanks Keith. It's starting to get there... Still got a bit of work to do yet though. I managed to get Joel ( My tuna ) up on Saturday and we spent about 3 hours on the road tuning. Basically, we were just doing 3rd gear pulls and set the fuel map, then started to screw some timing into it. Got got 20 psi with 14 degrees timing before we saw detonation. So we pulled it back to 8 and left it. We were just starting to have a bit of a play with the cams, when I started to lose clutch pedal. Initially, we thought that we had boiled the clutch fluid, as the teflon line runs pretty close to the exhaust. But I think that it maybe be something a bit more sinister... At the moment, it's an even way bet that the floating plate ( Of the twin plate clutch) may be sticking and not allowing the it to disengage. Or that the spigot has failed and not allowing the input shaft to stop spinning. Lionel (My engine guy) has graciously offered a lend of his hoist, so we'll know more then. Other than that, the car was pulling like a freight train and I could not get the smile of my face. We were only revving to 6,000 rpm and it certainly felt like it could spin harder. Now, I just have to come up with some coin, so that I can get it to the hub dyno in Harvey Bay and feed it some E85....