HI PSI

The IMS bushes are fine. The two outer diff bushes are the ones that have deteriorated.

The IMS hat is indeed the best option for these cars. Especially when planning on making power. I wish that IMS would o'ring the cover so that the hat will stop leaking on the mounting face. Mine will be upgraded when I decide to pull the IRS for the bushes. If funds allow, I'll also install some new gears the true-Trac that's be on the shelf for the past 4 years. I went trough some old posts and I note that Dan (CAT600) stated that the K-Mac front bushes were a lot like his design. I'll look into suppliers over the next few days. I am inclined to think that centre bearing has give up the ghost also. You just gotta love cars...

This is the last chance for this crank. Any more damage and it will have to be pulled. We're pretty confident that this will work. Now to fix the diff center bushes. What's is everyone using these days? Whiteline? Superpro?

As Promised - New bolts and dowels. We tried to get some 12 point bolts, but were unable to acquire. So we went for some Mopar 7/16 flywheel bolts instead. Gearbox is back in, al that is left is to install the shifter.

The time has come. My faithful CAT600 bushes have failed. Can anyone tell me if they are still available? If not, What's the next best? Cheers Brad

We drilled and tapped the crank today. I decided to install a new spigot and CSC and rear main while the box is out. I've gone back to the ARP bolts that I used previously, simply due to size constraints. We're still undecided on which 7/16 bolts we're goin to use. We'll sort that tomorrow and reassemble the car. I can't wait to drive it with this power. I'll post some pics soon.

Pm me your number and I'll tell you all about it

The sequential shifter runs fine. It's super heavy duty, so you can really swing off it. I haven't had a chance to use the strain gauge yet. We'll test it as soon as the flywheel issue is sorted.

Sorry to hear that, mate. Have you put a bore scope down it yet?

Hey Puff. thank you for your post. We've gone down a similar path, but we're adding 3 x addition 7/16 bolts and installing bigger, deeper dowels. We feel that the Atomic units are not long enough, which creates the ability for them to walk (pivot) and elongate the holes. This is what happened with my rig. Btw, how in your rig going? This is the jig that we made to facilitate the procedure. We will likely adapt atomics boss's into our design, so that we can drill and tap the holes straight. We will be running this system with all big hp Barra's moving forward. Thanks @k31th for providing the specific liks to Puff's thread. It saved me a lot of time.

Just clocked over 60k views. Thank you for your interest. Feel free to ask questions and provide feedback. Brad

3 x 10mm dowels.

A quick update on the car. It started to make a few funky noises on the last few runs on the dyno. So I borrowed a hoist and pulled the box (Again). It seems that the dowels have elongated the holes in the crank and flywheel, allowing it to twist and come loose. There was minimal metal transfer and all bolts were in place and still secured by the bolt retainer plate. In saying that, one bolt head broke off when I unfastened it with the rattle gun and another was bent. We put some thought into the cause of the failure and we surmise that the failure is due to hitting the limiter, causing extreme forces from the reverse rotating mass of the flywheel and triple plate clutch. So, we are drilling the flywheel and crank for an additional 3 x 7/16 ARP bolts, as well as larger dowels. I will not make a new fold plate, as I sourced one from Planet Parts. We will also be implementing either a timing retard or throttle reduction parameters 500 rpm before the limiter to soften its effect. I'll try to get some pics up as it progresses. Later...

I just thought that I'd share a link to some cheap alloy CSC's that I found on Ebay - $108 with free freight. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/122324549271 I hope that this helps some members. Brad

23 rwhp short. Lol. Story of my life...

It comes on very hard and has a broad range. from memory we're at full boost by 3,900 rpm. It goes to show that head work, bigger piping and good coolers make a significant difference.

Big day on the dyno today. We had to chase a few small issues. First was a sensor failure, then a misfire issue. We replaced the sender and installed another new set of plugs and the issues were resolved. We pushed the old girl as hard as we could, but had to pull it up due to the fuel pumps laying over. We ended up with 911 rwhp @ 26 psi. It look like I'll have to install a bigger gate springs and some 523/535 pumps to push it any further. Overall, I'm very happy with the results.

Thanks for the kind words, Tom. It runs a T56 Magnum with a S1 sequential shifter and strain gauge. The snail is a GTX 4202R.

It will either result in high 5's, or tears... We're also setting up the strain gauge for clutchless upshifts. It will be interesting to see what the fuel cut duration will be, for the synchro's to mesh. Exciting times.

Ensure that you have the block sonic tested before you start any machine work. The thinnest bore sections are between no.1 and 2 cylinder, but check all bores in all 4 quadrants. Some show good thickness 0.120" then go to 0.060 in an instant, then revert straight back to 0120". To give you an idea, I went through 4 block to get one good one. We even went as far as to offset bore my block to ensure maximum thickness...

It's time to get out of the 500+ club. The car is all ready for an E85 tune this Friday. Fingers crossed that we don't have to mop oil off the floor. 😄

It is nice to just cruise. But some creature comforts are good too... Unfortunately, I only have one set of series II door cards, and they were already modified. So I might as well go with it and make something nice out of a bad thing.

It's been a while... Work has recommenced. Still waiting on the engine assembly, getting close to the front of the cue. So, I thought that I'd start on other things. Roughing out component positions. Some Alpine MRV-1507's and 407's. One of the best Alpine screens ever made - Alpine IVA-D900 with PHA- H701 processor. Front stage is the Alpine DP-653, 3 way components. Rear stage is the previously installed R 61/2 2 way coaxials. A pair of Alpine RS-W10D2's where sourced for the low end.

The VN has been sitting for a while also. I'm starting to punch on with it also. STILL waiting on the engine to be assembled. We have everything bar the pushrods, so now I wait to get to the front of the engine guys cue. I'll comment on that thread and start with some updates soon. I have been enjoying working on the XR and I'm happy seeing it progress. I've been doing a few hours each day on it. All the console and dash trims back in the car. I wanted to be sure that the flywheel bolt issue was sorted before reassembling everything. The remaining tasks are primarily just finalising tedious cosmetic issues. I finished laying the mould carbon DJR splitter today and I'll wait a week before removing it and making the new part. I finally deleted the old ECU bracted and remounted the fuel reg. The header has been deleted and I've sorted a new radiator overflow tank, but it can't be fitted until the bar/mould is removed. A new carbon radiator support trim is also in the works, as the whole area looks horrible since installing the new radiator. The new trim will be extended to cover the the radiator and its mounts. Sorry for the sh*tty pics. I'll post more as I progress...

Hi all, long time no see. I thought that I'd drop in and say hi. I haven't done much with the car over the past few years. Essentially, I installed the FG cover, 52 mm radiator, new thermo's and deleted the header tank. I had the air conditioning re-gassed as my laptop guy wouldn't get in the car unless it was working. Sooky bloody tuners. Lol. We did a bit of street tuning and tidied up the idle and low throttle areas. Besides the clutch, it's pretty nice to drive. The car starts, idles and runs much nicer with the GTR coils. I've given the car a few good hits and it appears to have some issue when I wring it's neck. It misfires and spits for a bit then normalises. If I reset the ECU it disappears. I'll have to run some logs to see what's happening. I'm getting the car out of storage when I get home on Wednesday. I need to install remaining parts of the console, as wanted to ensure that we had sorted the flywheel bolts issues. I'll see if I can get a video of its acceleration. Hopefully the old GoPro still work.