HI PSI

I ran a flexible line and positioned it next to the ABS module.

I find it amazing that everyone has been complaining for years about the lack of options, and when one presents itself they complain about the price. I've just had my car rewired again, as I wanted to modify my harness and delete the factory PCM. Think about the costs involved with supplying a unit and making a harness, compared to the new replacement Elite 2500. Let alone having FREE tuning software with the package... The price comparison would be comparable to still running HP or SCT...... The biggest problem now, is that anyone with an Elite can tune and modify their own tunes. This will undoubtedly affect the income of some performance shops in the short term. But will increase workloads for engine builders, as more engines will be damaged/destroyed by amateur tuners.. The cycle will go full circle. Dale has confirmed that it is a replacement unit and has live tuning.

Dale Hilier has indicated that it will be around 3 - 3.5k abd that it has built in Lambda.

I haven't spoken to Daryn in AGES. I'll call him tomorrow for an update. I do believe that the car has been racing, so it must be fixed..

No. The input shafts have different splines....

Here are a new set of 0.020" JE forged pistons that have coated skirts and ceramic tops. I picked them up for $1300. There are bargains out there.....

Also do an IMS diff hat conversion also. You will thank me later...

Dollar for dollar, JE are probable the best value pistons for a stout Barra. I've built three engines using them (Sold two short engines). They're extremely high quality alloy that have minimal expansion. Therefore you can tighten up the clearances, which results in a very quiet engine. Btw, I agree with 99% of what Jet stated...

Thanks Cosmo, I have a small update for you.. AS some would know, we decided to remove the factory engine management altogether. Being the the Haltech was spliced into to it to maintain some functions, it turned into a rather complex, time consuming task. While it was all out, we installed/wired in: Installed and wired the thermocouples and amplifiers Installed a exhaust manifold backpressure sensor Launch control module - More of that at a latter date. Strain Gauge Gear position sensor While the harness was out, we decided to install Motorsport Connectors for the engine harness and thermocouples. This will make the removal of each extremely painless and time effective process, as well as neat. I went and checked on the progress of the changes on the weekend and I must say that the workmanship is amazing.. Here's a pic of one of the Motorsport Connector wiring..

I've sent Keith a new lot of re-uploaded pictures for the thread. Major regrets about posting so many pictures, as it has taken MANY hours and I'm only up to page 8. FML...

I installed new AEM sensors for this exact reason. I seem to remember my wiring guy saying something about them being GM style sensors. Could be wrong though, as it was a while ago.

You will need the matching t56 crossmember, csc, yolk and clutch. If you need a box etc, send me a pm. As I have a spare T57, with a Mal Wood option 5 clutch.

Thank you VERY much. You are a life saver. Is there anything that I can do to repay your kindness? Like a carton of beer?

Thanks for the reply Aaron. Due to it's size, it might be best to upload it to a file locker - Tinyupload.com Cheers

We're in the final stages of completely deleting the factory computer, and we require a detailed plug pinout and wiring colours. Any assistance with sourcing these would be greatly appreciated. Cheers Brad

BA II also has a six speed manual.. :D

I also run a 10 micro filter, for just that reason. While researching the topic, I found conflicting information on the use of the use of paper elements with E85. After discussing the topic with my engine guy, I decided to installed a stainless unit, with the biggest filter surface area that I could find..

Thanks Keith. It seems that that method is no longer able to be used. :-( I have now downloaded all of the pictures. How do I go about updating all of the links in the thread?

So, what horespower and torque increases would you expect (Given 850kw with a stock head) with a ported head?

I think that it's about time that I re-upload the pictures in the thread. Can anyone tell me how to download the whole folder from Photobucket? As they no longer have the "download folder" option in the actions section. I managed to get some using a download client, however they are rather small in size (under 100 kb). Can anyone tell me if these will be sufficient size to use as replacements?? Cheers

I'm not a fan of water meth injection. In my minds eye it's a bastardised fix, for things that can be remedied by utilising the correct fuel and quality components....

I will clarify right now, that I am not a professional, but I have spent a lot time researching an presenting probing questions to some professionals that have 40 industry experience. I am happy to exchange views and and I am more than happy for other to correct any errors that I make... So, here we go. The requirement or necessity of head porting is really dependent on the application/purpose of the engine. I have had many debates with Nem and the likes about this topic. Their line of thinking is "just throw more boost at it", and "if you you don't have enough boost, install a bigger turbo". I had a bit of spare time and we debated the topic. He had a few ill informed retorts and eventually resorted to statements like: "I run an 8, what do you run? Until you do STFU." Cases like these highlight this mentality and their lack of understanding of air flow principles. It also highlights that the majority are cheque book racers and don't design and build their own cars.. So, what is boost? All in all, boost is measurement of pressure. But, it is also a measurement of restriction.... As many here would know, this (restriction and it's effects on "boost") has been highlighted in previous thread when testing pressure drops with intercoolers. Keep this in mind, with the following.. A professionally ported cylinder head (Like mine), will see an increase of around 30% of cfm across the whole range. Now, think about that for a second, that is from 0.050' right through to 0.700' lift. This significant increases the volumetric efficiency and decreases turbulence in the ports. In essence, this increases the amount of air an fuel into the cylinders. This results in a substantial power increase, while utilising less boost, thereby improving part throttle response (Not really limited to part throttle) and overall power gains across the whole range. And we're not talking a few hp here, we're talking about substantial gains. Keep in mind that this also effect spool and efficiency prior to boost coming online...What's not to like there... A common defense used to justify no cylinder head porting, is cost. The old "it's not worth the money, throw more boost into it'.. Keep in mind that throwing more boost into an engine" results in increased IAT's and the compressor wheel ultimately working outside of its efficiency range, which results in diminishing returns (hp per psi boost increase and less timing). Keep in mind, that to counteract this, would require a more efficient intercooler or additional components like water/mentanol injection. Installing a larger turbo also has its pro's and con's. It will provide increased air density, but the resulting trade off is lag.. Hence, earlier statement about purpose and intent of the vehicle... of these incur significant cost. It is also interesting to note that 99% of the negative supporters fit larger intercoolers, piping, plenums and aftermarket exhausts. Every one of these components is rather costly and ultimately deisgned to improve airflow, efficiency and power output of the engine. So why would they do all of these things and still do absolutely nothing to the cylinder head? After all, bang for buck, it provides the greatest gains per $ spent...Talk about having an Elephant in the room... Just my two cents.....

I had a similar problem, with some aftermarket shafts that I purchased before built my car. We remedied the issue by centre popping the nut. This creates a pressure point, which stops the nut from undoing. I hope that this helps..

I heard a story that Atomic stage 3 cams are the same as FG cams. Any truth in the claim?

I speak to Marcus on Facebook. He's a really nice, genuine guy. I hope that he gets better soon, so he can post some videos of the beast..