HI PSI

Just read it... Well done. I look forward to your updates and pics of the build. Brad

You certainly don't muck around, do you.... Well done mate, I look forward to reading more about your experience. And the pics too...

Thank you for taking the time to read my thread, it is quiet lenghty and must have taken some time to complete. Generally, I don't get a lot of feedback, it sometimes feels like your talking to yourself all of the time and that no one is noticing the updates . It's good to know that it is not in vain and that it is of use to others. After all, that was the purpose of the thread.. From memory, we ran a tap through the flywheel to remove any old loctite and contaminant. We upped the torque on the bolts a bit and reapplied loctite to the new flywheel bolts. The car hasn't been run since, so I hope that we have resolved the issue. I guess that I'll soon find out. Lol. Thanks again for your input and good luck with your idle issue. Brad

At this point in time and as we have made considerable changes ( Deleted the factory EMS) over the past six months, I cannot confirm if the factory speedo or tacho actually work. The factory dash will mostly be deleted in the near future to fit the IQ3. If it is still working, I will make a video and post it before I make the alterations.

I had similar issues and found that the filter screen in the regulator was almost blocked completely with contaminant. Once cleaned, the issue disappeared. Food for thought.....

As in the IQ3?

Looking to join this list very soon.... Is there any recent updates to it?

It seems that imgur does not facilitate sound with their clips. Unfortunately, I don't known of any other methods of sharing the file.

It's ALIVE !!!!!!! https://imgur.com/uST7NDX

Finally home, after working away for three weeks. So, I thought that I'd update everyone on the regulator issue. The replacement parts arrived over a week ago. Here are the side by side comparisons of the of the old diaphragm and top section and the new updated versions. As you can see the parts are considerably different in their shape and surface area. Hopefully, we can say goodbye to the fueling issue and push ahead with finalising the wiring and setting up the Haltech to run all the the additional sensors. I'm really looking forward to playing with strain gauge and shifter setting for the clutchless gear changes. I have so much to learn....

Just keep in mind that the higher the boost level, the colder the plug...

You will have to be a little more specific, so that we may offer the best advice for your expectations. We will need to know: Budget Current modifications Transmission type Power expectation Budget Intended use of the vehicle. Ie: track, drag, circuit or street car. I'm sure that we should be able to offer accurate advice with complete information from the above criteria. Regards

Lol... Good work Keith.. FWIW Typhoon, many years ago I learnt to ignore troll and ignore their vein attempts of disruption. I took a few minutes to view his profile. I was unimpressed...

Has a mod been in the thread and modified my post? As my response only comprised of the first line and Typhoons post has somehow morphed into my response. How is this possible???

If you cannot give constructive feedback, or add value to the thread. Feel free to leave any time..

Lol !! Sure you would have.

Given that the feed and return lines are matching size and has minimal restriction, I cannot envisage an increase of head pressure at the regulator. As it will just bypass at the specified pressure and flow back to the tank. I'm running a KPM 1500hp intank module. At this point in time, both pumps run simultaneously and are not staged. I would like to do so, but the lid section of the module only has one set of terminals and we are therefore stuck with what we have.. I will be rectifying this in the immediate future (When I get the car back), by machining a new top section and installing separate power terminals for each pump, along with a Holley Fuelmat.. Back to the regulator, Fuelab continued with the "damaged from contamination" story line. Personally, I still believe that it was inherit fault with the regulators as they have redesigned the upper section of the regulator and the diaphragm itself. Both parts are in transit and we hope that this resolves the issue permanently.. If you've built a car from scratch with all new component and had to fault find this issue, you would understand the time and frustration associated with such issues. Tell me. how long would it have taken you to identify the issue, given the scenario and your professional experience? I really don't understand your sarcasm, as I was not particularly despondent in my posts about the issue. I was more so disappointed that a high quality and expensive component was DOA. Fuelab replied to my correspondence last night and immediately freighted the required upgraded parts free of charge...

I must have been typing my reply while you were... Lol. See post above this reply... This is the regulator specifications and model number: Name56501 High Flow Fuel Pressure Regulator -10AN Inlets / MAX FLOW 1/2" Seat / EFI (25-65 PSID) 56501 High Flow Fuel Pressure Regulator Item-detailsFUELAB® 565 Series Fuel Pressure Regulators have all of the same great features as our 515/525 Series except for extreme capacity. Utilizing a massive ½” return orifice and -10AN ports, these regulators hold no bounds. With the bypass capability over 5 GPM at 5 PSI, this new regulator can handle blow through carbureted applications well over 1800 H.P., and for EFI applications using belt driven fuel pumps; even further (with a flattened regulation slope). Regulator comes in four different pressure ranges covering applications between 4 and 80 Regulator Features Two -10AN inlet ports and one -10AN return port 1.75" sized diaphragm with 1/2" return orifice Gasoline, diesel, methanol, and ethanol fuel compatible Billet Aluminum with anodize per military MIL-A-8625, Type II Fine thread pitch for precise pressure adjustment Versatile mounting bracket and stainless steel hardware 1/8” NPT gauge port with plug for external pressure gauge 1/8” NPT pressure reference port with barbed fitting Backed by a 2-year limited warranty 56501-C -10AN Inlets / Standard Seat / EFI (25-65 PSID) I guess that they see "rebuildable" as a positive marketing strategy... I suppose that not having to buy another unit is a positive... However, as the fault was out of the box. I am less than amused... As stated in my recent correspondence with Fuelab: "I cannot begin to describe my disappointment and frustration, given the time and cost associated with identifying the issue. Given that this is one of your top shelf, flagship products, with a price tag to match, only compounds these feelings." I keenly await their reply... I was and continue to be OCD with the build. I personally fabricated all lines and ensure that any/all contaminants were removed. I ran water through all lines and dried them with compressed air. Also, note that I run a large 10 micron fuel filter and that the stains on the top diaphragm are on the non fuel side of the regulator....

Their website specifies 25-65 PSID. We were running two Walbro 460's at 4 bar - 60 PSI. The fuel system is a -10 teflon feed and return line..

On a lighter note, I've heard that Photobucket has eased their 3rd party hosting rules. Any truth to it??? Only reason that I ask, is that I've installed a chrome workaround, so that I could view the posted pics and update the thread to Image.your links. I've completed updating pics up to page 10 and I cannot tell if the old Photobucket links thereafter, are working or not... Feedback on this would be greatly appreciated... Cheers Brad

I sent an email to Fuelab a few days ago, regarding our fuel bypass issue. They stated that "99% of the time, a failed diaphragm is the result of a small piece of debrisputting in pinhole in the material. It's compatible with all common fuels with the exception of nitromethane, so fuel compatibility is very rarely the cause. Although a different size/shape, we use the same material from the same vendor that all of the other big names get theirs from." They also requested a picture of the under side of the diaphragm. So, I got my wiring guy to dismantle the reg, and I must say that we were surprised with what we found.... I have sent a strong, well worded response, accompanied my these pictures..... Top side - Non fuel side of the regulator. note the black ring... Under side pics x 3 - Note the extent of the failure...

What Jet said. As you know, it's very tight even when just pulling the engine out. I'd bet my left nut that box cannot go in with the engine.. Hence why I drop the whole K frame and take the lot out through the bottom. Unfortunately, this requires a hoist...

Where do I start... It has been a very frustrating week. The wiring was installed and we had a problem with the engine management losing its home signal. This made it run like a real pig.. So, we went back over the wiring and couldn't find anything out of the ordinary. We then pulled the intake cam sensor off my old engine and replaced the new unit (500 km old, factory sensor) and it fixed the issue. The car was running about 300% better now, but we had a fueling problem at idle. It was over fueling and despite specifying 1 lambda for AFR and trimming the table, it made no difference. Initially, we thought that the fuel (98 Ron) was old and that it was the cause. So, we removed the regulator and started to pump the old fuel out when we noticed that fuel was coming out of the vacuum line. Which leads us to believe that the 500 km old Fuelab regulator has a leaking diaphragm. I've spent some time today trying to source a replacement part, which to date, has been unsuccessful. I'll try some of the Aussie distributors tomorrow morning... I'll keep updating as we progress.. Sold the second car. I don't have enough time for another build at the moment.. Cosmetically, the car has not changed. Hasn't helped that I haven't seen it for six months. Lol. I still have some carbon fibre parts to make. I'll update the thread when they are completed. Thank you. It has been a labor of love...

After nearly 6 months, the wiring is completed and installed in the car. I cannot begin to describe my feeling of joy and relief. I really feel like crying.. I know that some will wonder why it has taken so long. The extended duration was due to my wiring guy having a full time job (At the mines), which involves being away from home. Given my familiarity with these circumstances, it has taken substantially longer than normal. However, the man is absolutely fastidious with his work and I'm sure that when you view the pictures below, you will attest to the wait being justifiable. AS you can see, we cut the harness just past the firewall and added a Motorsport connector. This will allow us to completely disconnect the wiring harness in one spot (Except coils), if engine removal is required. I wish that I'd thought of it the first time around.... We've done the same with the Thermocouple amplifiers to allow for ease of removal/installation. Note that they amplifiers are not yet installed into the engine management compartment and that they will be mounted on top of thew wideband and I/O expander modules... So, the beast has been fired, but we had a small trigger issue. It seems to be losing it's home(Can't remember exact term).. We'll put it on a scope and suss it out...