HI PSI

Well, I'm still battling with the damn shifter. I measured the gear throw in the box today, and all seems to be normal for a Magnum variant. So, I'll pull it out again tomorrow and check clearances again. In the mean time, I managed to find some motivation and started infusing the new front sill scuff panels. The moulds for the rear set need a light sand, and with any luck, I'll get them in a day or two..

Don't let the attitude of one dissuade you with helping members, Puff. I for one keenly follow your posts, and I appreciate your knowledge and advice that you share..

Got home last night . I spent some time today finishing the backing plate. I've been a bit busy, so I haven't had time to order the pilot lights. I'll get to that on Monday...

I am never going to live that down, am I?

I managed to get a bit done on the dash today. Overall, I'm pretty happy with how it turned out. I still have to pull it apart and put a layer of carbon on the face plate and as I'm a bit broke at the moment, I'll have to put purchasing the lights on hold until I go back to work. I also spent some time on the starting issue that I've been having. It seems that as I'm running a Haltech CDI ignition, I cannot specify in the software to start the engine on wasted spark, as it normally does with the factory system. Thereby the car will not fire until it seems sync. This has resulted in the car having to crank for around 10 -20 seconds for it to fire. I dummied up my spare head and measured the gap from the intake cam sensor today in the hope of machining the sensor mount and moving it closer to the cam trigger. Thereby increasing the cam signal. Unfortunately, I found that there was only 0.8 mm gap between the trigger wheel and the sensor. So little chance of improving cam signal by machining that way. Having given up on that prospect, we went back into the Haltech software and we eventually realised that it was possible to specify a -VE Trigger home arming voltage. I then changed the 100 and 300 rpm values to -0.15 and 500 rpm to 0. And you wouldn't believe it, it starts after 3 crank rotations. If I said that I was ecstatic, it would be an understatement..... Another issue sorted, only the shifter to go.....

I spoke to Daryn not long ago. Despite all of hie efforts, he could not find the source, or rectify the harmonics issue. From what I gather, the only thing to have changed proior to noise, was the cylinder head. So, Daryn has been running the car, and when I say running, I'm talking over 1,500 rwhp. So far, no obvious problems. Daryn did say that he will be pulling the engine down soon, for inspection. It will be interesting to see if he finds any abnormalities..

I think that we should start a cylinder head porting thread... That way we won't spam the OP's thread. I'd be happier contributing to the conversation there...

We were rather surprised at the amount of increased flow in the head, when we did mine. I have been advocating the benefits of cylinder head work for some time, but 99% of responses I get are "Just throw more boost at it instead"... It's good to see others seeing the light and realising the benefits. Out of curiosity, what size valves did you use?

I've been a bit slack of late, just kicking back and enjoying the festive season. It's come to that time again, when I have to get off my arse. Or this thing will never get done. I have been in contact with S1 Sequential and I've spent some time trying different things with the shifter. Primarily, we considered the issue to be an issue with the installed height. I put in 2.4 mm or shim and managed to get all gears. Although the shift is still not correct. Tomorrow, I removed the detent spring from the box, as Simon seems to think that it is the source of the problem. I guess that I'll find out tomorrow. I had to go to a local wrecker today, to get a new factory jack, as I need it to raise the car enough for my trolley jack to fit under. While I was there, I grabbed a SR instrument panel, so that I can make a new housing for the IQ3 dash. I gutted the panel today and milled of some of the mounts, so that the IQ3 would seat nicely in the housing. When dismantling the assembly, I noted that the tacho and speedo ring assembly is mounted between the front and rear housing. I will be utilising this area to install the flush mounting section (Carbon fibre) around the IQ3. This panel will also be used to house all of the other necessary indicator, high beam, seat belt, Handbrake, driving light and door ajar pilot lights. I still have to work out how and where I will place the dimmer controls for the dash illumination (High series cluster), as well as the Hazard switching. I did a bit of research and found an Australian company which manufactures some beautiful pilot lights and buttons. I still haven't decided on whether to use the black or silver style. I am leaning towards the black though.. I am also spending some time tomorrow trying to sort the starting issue that I have. The haltech seems to have problems with the voltage form intake cam sensor. As a result the car cranks for around 15-20 seconds before it will fire. I collected my spare head today, so that I can dummy up the sensor and measure the gap between the trigger wheel. We think that distance is too great and we're looking to machine the mounting surface of the sensor, to increase the sensor voltage. Fingers crossed that this easy fix will be successful. I'll try to post again soon, hopefully with some more pics and stories of success. Laters

I run a stand alone Haltech engine management system. As I had no factory EMS, my ICC could not link and thereby displayed the security code. Car ran, Dual zone etc woked.. I sent the ICC to Fadi, at https://www.aslautomedia.com.au/. They removed the security from the ICC and all is well again. Was $120 total...

I don't think that it is an amperage issue. More likely an over speeding of the alternator.

In tried using a 2 wire, 160 amp alternator from a Ford Mercury. The fitment was fine, but I had issues with overcharging at high rpm. I believe that it got to around 17 volts at 6,500 rpm. I thought that it may have had a faulty regulator, so I replaced it and tried again. The overcharge remained and I was fortunate that it only blew the headlight bulbs. After this, I decided to refit the factory unit while I sorted the rest of the car. Unfortunately, I haven't got back to it..

What stroke?

Essentially, he replaced every component (except for rhe crank and rods) in a effort to identify the cause. Verniers included. In the end, he never found the cause. He just ran the car (over 1500 rwhp) and has not had any issues with component damage or failure since. The engine will be pulled again soon, so as to check bearings etc. I'll update it the thread if he finds anything....

A bit more detail.... Ba typhoon Engine Auscrank billet crank 3.6L R&r billet conrods Cp pistons Billet tool steel main caps 14.3mm head studs Honda k20 dual valve springs sr20 titanium retainers Ferrea valves Mechanical fuel pump+Magna fuel pump 6xMoran injectors 6x ID2000 Hypertune intake 6boost exhaust Gen2 gtx5533r 91mm ARE intercooler 5” exhaust split into twin 4” at diff Jesel modular rockers Dry sump Motec m800 ecu Motec CDI ignition Motec data logging dash Transmission T56 magnum built by mal woods. Carbon synchros,billet shafts etc. Race products chrome moly diff housing LSD Detroit locker 35 spline axles 4 link/coil overs etc all mounted to factory mounting points so it passes roadworthy. 315/60 15 on billet specialties wheels. Andra spec 6 point cage with mod plate. Parachute Brembo front brakes and smaller brakes to suit front runners. The car has about 105,000km on it. The body is straight but the paint has a few scratches etc from spending its whole life in a workshop. 1524rwhp on pump e85 with full exhaust and air filter etc. Comes with methanol tune but it’s never been turned right up on methanol to get a power figure.

The "sound" and its source could not be identified. So he decided to run it and "see what happened". It's still running fine, even after copping a hiding.. When he purchased the car, the engine was in pieces. The compression was lowered, and alloy rods were fitted. The exhaust manifold was changed and the Precision was replaced with a Gtx 91 mm turbo (from memory). I believe that a 5" dump and exhaust was also fitted and a bigger Plazmaman intercooler. After a little driving, the 9" housing was distorted to such an extent that there was nearly 10 mm difference at the diff center flange. A new moly housing was fitted, and much shorter gears installed. From what I gather, the rest remains the same... The car still has more left in it and it will be getting more boost soon..

Pm sent.

Now you know....

Old members would remember the car.... One of, if not the most advanced Barra's around.. It has had considerable modifications since it was purchased from the previous owner. There is a 88 page thread (from the previous owner) on here somewhere... Btw, the other car in video was a R33 GTR.

I wish... Another beast that's is prowling the streets...

Just got send these...

I received the Audio control module back yesterday and the security code issue has been resolved. Yay!!! Simon form S1 Sequential was supposed to fly up today to sort the problems withe the shifter, but he missed the flight. Majorly disappointed would be a understatement. I was SO looking forward to getting it sorted, as it is the only thing stopping the car from running. I'm going to pull it out and install the quick shifter instead....

I agree. Similar design, but significantly reduced capacity, compared to the PW unit.

Thanks Kelth.

I considered building a new PC, but decided on a gaming laptop instead (MSI GT80 Titan - SLI Dual 980m). Comparable performance with the benefits of portability..