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Everything posted by Green Goblin
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Well it's taking a lonnnnnnnng time, but somebody has Finally topped my 2005 BA2 Turbo (Which is now at 407k). Not surprised at the million kilometres, taxidrivers were doing that in Aussie almost routinely when the B series 1st was released, the word I heard was that once they were hitting 1,000,000 km the head was pulled off and the valves re-Seated, and that's it, they carry on for another million! Solid effort on the Turbo Ute km! I honestly didn't think I would come across somebody that had done more km for a few more years yet especially now they are getting desirable and people are not wanting to rack up the kilometres.
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Thanks mate yes she’s been treated like royalty since the day I got it, although the kilometres wouldn’t tell you that lol. It was two years old with 76,000 km on the clock I think it was when I got it 76,936 possibly even (I do have it written down somewhere), Still had factory warranty on it. And was ex-lease. It’s only ever had the best fully synthetic oil in it every service and even more impressive is the fact I bought a washable air filter and fitted it a week after I got the car-Even that is just as good a condition of the car all these years later so it goes to show a little bit Of love goes a long way. Been wanting to post photos for ages so people can see for themselves it’s actually done the kilometres!
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Finally able finally f This f&cking app drives me crazy lol I am there trying to type stuff and doesn’t even show my bloody text! Okay so that’s the 400+ K girl, The boys at the fraud dealership love it because it’s like new and they say it drives nicer than any of the Mustangs and like it’s brand-new which should because I’ve replaced just about every single suspension bush the car has plus the diff bushes A few years ago. Since I retired and stopped driving it every day it has developed a very slight oil leak, it’s not a crank seal because it’s not throwing off the pulley up the front of the engine however it does leave a tiny spot on the piece of card I have under the car after every trip. It takes me a year and a half to do 10,000 km which is when I do the oil change and it isn’t leaking enough to even register on the dipstick so I think it must be a gasket join weeping maybe the timing chain cover gasket or something? Anyway she definitely doesn’t look like your average 400 K plus Falcon that’s for sure.
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Well we have passed 401000km in the Green machine-stupid tapatalk wont let me log in so I cant upload a pic.
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Well guys, I just hit 399,951km and still going hard!
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Been a while since I popped in but im just about to hit 399k. Anyone passed me yet?? Car developed a miss recently which I think after swapping the plugs and not seeing any evidence of tracking on the coil boots anywhere is a coil breaking down internally? Can hear it over the stereo ticking every time it misses so deffo arcing somewhere. Ford nz wanted $250 EACH for the genuine coils! I bought a set off ebay still sealed inside individual bags with ford OEM part numbers on, and all 6 are sealed in another bag with oem part number on (which I assume is for the set). Soon as I put it in D and hold it on the brake it starts missing erratically, and its a lot worse when the engine is hot hence im almost certain one coil is breaking down internally. Its fine on the open road and if I boot it, just seems to be at low revs. Hopefully having brand new genuine plugs and coils will give it a bit of a wake up too . Interesting unrelated note-since ive not been driving it daily it has developed a slight oil leak at the front of the engine. Not enough to show on the dipstick as its probably a teaspoon or 2 max. Also since last post I had trans oil leaking into the propshaft and needed a new propshaft carrier bearing too, plus I imported a replacement OEM ICC as my one had issues with the screen randomly flickering on and off. I put up with that for 10 yrs till I had enough of it and got a replacement unit from ASL. Need to look at getting my original one repaired too but going by freight costs I may send the screen unit over to be tested, followed by the cd stacker. Would be nice to keep it all OG. Anyway, whats everyones Km now??
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Its now up to 398,300kms or so! I need to upload a pic somehow!
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My 05 BA2 turbo had 78000km on it when I bought it ex lease at two years old-it’s now sat on 385,400kms-original motor and trans and diff, I spent about 16k on it a couple of years ago replacing all the worn out bushes and ball joints, a leaking inlet manifold gasket, a worn out alternator, a pair of engine mounts and front brake hoses, and a number of other parts that had literally just worn out-I even had to replace the factory 18’s because the alloy had work hardened and every time I had a tire changed or even looked at a bump in the road I’d end up with 2 or more cracks in the wheels. Car doesn’t use a drop of oil and according to the local ford dealer it drives “better than a new one”. I bought it to keep forever so she gets treated like a rock star and always has with regular trans flushing and oil changes, engine oil changed every 10-12k, the diff serviced when the trans is, and if I can figure out how to upload a pic I will!
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Catching up Steve I see lol-will likely pass me soon too as I'm retired now and the cars lucky to do 10k a year
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When I pulled my screen filter out it was still clean-my turbo simply got mild compressor droop (which apparently is quite common in this turbo), but mine aside I have heard of a number of people who did have turbo failure because that screen blocked up and starved the turbo of oil.
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Still got a way to go to catch me at 378000kms[emoji106][emoji106]
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It's been done in a few R33's already (Barra swap)-not sure on the AWD but then why would you want to? The stupid amount of money etc it would cost just to get it all to bolt up, you could spend on the Nissan donk and have a decent amount of power atw anyway. Then there's all the Nissan fanboys who would get butthurt cause you bastardised a GTR lol
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Hi guys, I bought my 6t at 80k (she was 2 yr old)-she's now done 375k. She never uses a drop of oil and never has, and I've only ever used Elf excellium 5w30 fully synth in it, and change it every 10-12k. According to the oil it Exceeds all the specs laid down by Ford (I checked). I'm no expert chemist on oil but when I used to build rally car motors I used to pay attention to the oil pressure and the absolute worst oil I used for oil pressure at high temp-shell helix! The best oil I found at high temp (minimal pressure loss) was Mobil 1 5W50 or this Elf oil I have used for the 9 years I've owned the car. This whole oil debate is one that is a never ending one with every man and his dog having an opinion, but there are a number of factors you should think about when choosing your oil as whilst Ford have a "recommendation" in the handbook, you have to remember it's only that-a recommendation, and a lot of other factors need to be considered when choosing an oil, the main one being that it meets or exceeds OEM spec. Some of these factors are things like climate (is it hot or cold generally), the way you drive the car (whether you putt around like miss daisy or take it to every second track day etc), the age of the engine and current (if any) oil consumption-some engines will burn oil if you use the wrong grade-my mrs Corolla uses heaps if we put 5w30 in it but none with 10w40, so that's another thing. I find it quite interesting reading some of these comments-I do agree motul is bloody good. Anyway here's a pic to back up the Kms, and as I said before, opinions on what to use are like assholes-everyone has one lol.
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Hmm interesting-I haven't heard of that before! I do know with mine I can smack the dash and the ICC screen comes back on and/or Starts responding again. I'm getting close to sending it to ASL Automedia to sort the damn thing out once and for all-the CD player needs attention anyway (cds skip if I play them) I just been using my iPod in her for years so never worried about the CD player. Would be awesome to have it upgraded to Bluetooth and a USB added (if possible) but it's all money.
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now ford stop production of xr6 turbo, what could I buy?
Green Goblin replied to mike0819's topic in XR6 Turbo
Keep it.....they just keep going -
Well, I've heard of lots of them letting go prematurely because of that mesh filter blocking up and starving the turbo bearings, but no, mine was a simple case of compressor droop (which also isn't uncommon on them so I have read). I could hear a handful of vanes on the compressor wheel "tinging" on the snail about 2 days before it let go as the turbo spooled down. When it let go the bent shaft actually caused the bearing cartridge to shift out of place toward the snail and thus the compressor wheel foul on the snail. I was 100km from home at the time and it wasn't blowing any smoke out back,just lost its power and sounded like a bag of spanners if I pushed the motor over 1800rpm, so I nursed it all the way home, it never used a drop of oil the whole way, when I got the turbo off I smacked it down on the workbench and the bearing cartridge inside relocated itself. But yep the shaft had a small bend in it. I pulled that little oil screen out at the same time and it wasn't blocked so was 100% compressor droop that caused it. As for all the other stuff, yep I'm not complaining as it's all wear and tear, it's just painful in the pocket when it's 10k all at once.
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I would if the link worked. As I said before it's one of them discussions that will just go round in circles for ever-everyone has different opinions and what one guy thinks is right there will be a dozen who disagree for a number of reasons. The one thing I do know, is that what I been doing has worked fine for me, and as far as I'm concerned that's all that matters, same as if someone else has been getting it changed every 3000km (for arguments sake)....if what you do works for ya then why change? And yep I'm mongoloid as well as dyslexic [emoji23] I'm dyslexic and cannot turn off simple functions in tapatalk
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Yea mate, it's been a bit hard on the pocket-10k in the last 12 months is a lot for most people to find, and in years gone by I coulda done 95% of the work myself however my age caught up,as did an old work injury and consequently the only people I let near her are Ford (I'm a retired pedantic engineer). When you divide the cost over the years I've owned her it's still around 1k a yr maintenance costs which is pretty damn good, it's just a pain it all came at once lol. As for the cracking rims, it was the only explanation I could come up with, as it got worse as the kms got higher-I musta welded up close to 12 cracks in my wheels in the last 3 years before I replaced them-it seemed like even changing the tyres would crack them on the inside edge! A number of tyre shops told me it was common in fords and Holden's with stock 18" or bigger rims, and eventually I had enough so I bough a set of 5 new wheels for her. And yes I'm dyslexic and can't wait to find out how the hell u turn this crap off [emoji23][emoji106] I'm dyslexic and cannot turn off simple functions in tapatalk
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Well I'm no genius but I have done 300k in mine with oil changes every 10-12k, and have always only ever used elf excellium 5/30w fully synthetic in the 9 years I've owned mine. Oil comes out clean as a whistle, it's almost a shame to throw it away! There's a lot of factors to think about with regard to oil changes,a higher stressed motor that gets a fair amount of working out, or any engine that does lots of short trips will benefit from one sooner than say a car doing high mileage and not being pushed too hard. It's really down to vehicle use and oil quality used. Some people just buy any old oil cause it's cheap, but I can assure you no 2 oils are the same. End of the day it's one of them discussions that's never ending, but essentially if you value your motor you will probably have some concept of how to look after a car-so naturally if you been doing lots of drag runs as opposed to cruising from Sydney to Darwin your oil will likely want changing sooner rather than later. No substitute for good oil, especially in modern engines.
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Replace Factory 8 Inch Sub Options?
Green Goblin replied to polarbear's topic in Audio/Visual Workshop
I had my stock sub in my BA2 pop yrs ago, so I replaced it with a pioneer "shallow mount" one which was crap and also popped after a couple of years-then I found an infinity 8" free air sub and it's better than it's ever been-so if you can find one, I recommend the infinity. I think JBL do one also but can't comment on if it's -
Never mind, it's easier with tapatalk app. That's my 375km daily...still scrubs up clean[emoji106]
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Yes, you have to otherwise the ICC won't fit properly or even worse you end up breaking the plug. I've tried dielectric grease since my last post but it hasn't worked, however I did read somewhere that a bad earth will also do what mine is doing, so I'm going to put a seperate earth to the icc and see if that helps. If not, I wil then try connecting the earth in the plug for the satnav on my ICC to ground and see if that helps. I've even read somewhere that it could also be my alternator causing the problem as can Use systems require precise voltage and given my alternators done about 2.5million hours I would imagine the power supply from it is less than smooth.
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Hi guys, she's just clicked over 375k this last week.... It's been a painful 12 months cause everything's been kinda wearing out on her in the last year! So far in the last 12 months I have done the following: all new front ball joints, front sway bar links and bushes new front brake hoses-had custom braided ones made up as nobody in NZ stocked hoses! new harmonic dampener new radiator new r/h engine mount (left one isn't far away) new rubber hose joiners in the turbo coolant lines both rear upper outer bushes (the highly stressed ones) all new links and bushes for rear sway bar new diff bushes new wheels (the factory 18's got so work hardened they kept cracking) new inlet manifold gasket replaced exhaust manifold bolts with a stud kit and also had 2 threads helicoiled at the same time. full diff and Trans service as it was due all new brake pads new Power steering hose from the pump that's about it.........aside from the alternator is bound to need replacing by now. My loose calculation based on 7hrs runtime per tankful has that alternator at 2.625 MILLION hours runtime from new, so when you look at these Barra motors from hours of runtime, the massive km the Aussie taxi drivers get before major tear down is even more impressive. when she hits 500km I'm going to treat her to new valve springs and maybe a mild tune, but that said she's been so bloody reliable it's not funny. I've owned her since 2007 and she was 2 yrs old when I got her so 300k is what I have put on her. She still gets elf excellium 5/30 fully synthetic oil every 10-12k along with a filter, and the oil that comes out is almost as clean as what I put in to replace it! This next one will probably shock a few people, and I've certainly had debates about it over the last 3 years, but when my original turbo let go at 250km (was purely old age-it got compressor droop), I removed that factory oil screen in the oil feed line and just hooked it all back up-lots of people swear by those aftermarket inline oil filters, but the truth is IF you look after your baby they are redundant as the oil feed to the turbo is directly from the main filter. My current turbo has done 125km with no in line filter, and whilst some people swear by them, my own opinion is they are an unnecessary expense. Anyway, that's up to the individual. Now let's see if I can upload a pic of the clocks to back up the kms! can anyone advise how ya upload a pic here from an iPad lol....
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Mine plays up in my BA2 all the time, screen goes off and the hvac stops working. Pull the icc out and put it back in and it's fine for upto 6 months....very frustrating. Has a dry joint in the electrics somewhere but as yet I haven't found out where. Just one of them things I think, I'm going to,try some dielectric grease on the big plug into the dash and also on each end of the cable from the screen to the stereo itself.
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By 2005 BA2 XR6T has done 370,000 km and still goes like brand new. I've had it 9 years this year and done about 300k of that 370k myself. She's on her second turbo due to the original getting compressor droop at 250k, but aside from that it gets regular engine and Trans servicing and is still going strong. At 500k I'm planning new valve springs and probably a timing chain and then a flash up to 270kw I think.