RAP1D

If your just after sound, get the mufflers changed for free flowing mufflers and it'll sound great, wont cost much more than 400. Stock BA BF FG exhausts are stainless steel.

That's it, I'm selling mine! I could handle Tab and Dills having them, but now you Mr Dags... enough's enough! For Sale ; 1 slightly raped and violated, but stupidly fast G6ET... Nah...welcome to the Old Boys Club Dags

A well set up, ie tuned ZF should hold 450wkws fine, keep on top of its servicing.... a poorly set up ZF will do all sorts of freaky things and end up slipping and needing a rebuild. FG looks awesome by the way!

I'd tend to take it easy on this motor mate... by the sounds of what you've said , its been running on the edge (14:1 on boost) for awhile now, with high inlet temps and super lean AFRs its prob been pinging alot too... could be a grenade waiting to pop. Not saying the tunes in it now are bad, I'm sure they are awesome... I'd just be keeping the boost down.

Yep we want to pull the GT42 apart and see what wheels are in it. The 3.5inch exhaust was an xforce mild steel off the self system, which recieved a "modded" cat, removed centre muffler, custom 4inch dump and 60mm gate piping to suit 6boost manifold / TS gate set up. We tuned on pump bioflex from caltex, so no special fuel mixes, made 515wkws on mainlines dyno, at 30psi, on 35psi it didnt make anymore kw but did make 200nm through the midrange, suggesting the exhaust flow was maxed. I removed the exhaust from dump pipe back and made single 4inch, one 4inch straight through Hooker muff in the middle. Back on the dyno, with no changes, same fuel still in the tank, hit 550 on 32psi straight away, 600 on 37 with some more tuning. But this is 600 on pump fuel, readily available from Caltex

Nah I didnt mean PW products were made in china mate... just IF I got them made in china price would be alot cheaper, but I'd rather keep our dollars here in Aus.

I just sold the last one of these from our first batch of 15 made, but being made here in Sydney, hand fabricated, hand polished and sold with quality silicon joiners and clamps, I can't compete with 99 bucks... so not much point making any more, unless I mass produce them in China, then I'll pump them out for $25 each LOL Something to note, both mine and the latest Plazmaman FG intercooler kits were designed and made without retaining the OEM elbow, as from my extensive XR6T research and development I've know since 2008 that the plastic elbow splits under high boost, so our kits were made to run directly to the throttle body, deleting the tight, plastic elbow...so no need for 99 buck band aids later on when the others figure it out. Happy boosting guys and I hope everyone has an awesome weekend at Powercruise! Cheers Chris

Lol you guys know what I mean... If your using the underbattery intake, it's pretty much maxed at 350wkw, which is why when guys have upgraded to my 4invh intake & airbox, power goes up and it'll go over 350wkws. So, if you remove the under bat intake and run no intake at all, there won't be any restriction and power will go up... Thus punching 400wkw ... Or smashing 400 in monsta talk lol

for F6 FG Cooler & piping & intake full exhaust injectors surge tank and 044 valve springs tune and xcal3 (or use VCM) wastegate port & actuator if it's an xr6 / g6et it will need bigger turbo, F6 turbo is a straight swap on

Really the best way I like to up size from an 044 is to use a bigger single pump. We've been using Aeromotive 1000hp pumps on our big fuel systems with great results. The main reason I like to use a big single pump as apossedto two 044s is RELIABILITY Yes 2 x 044s will work well and support 1200odd HP... IF, one pump stops working, say through a wring issues or faulty pump ( and we all know pumps fail now and then ), the car wont stop, it will drive as normal, but only have half the fuel supply. This wont show up driving it normally in traffic and at idle, but once you get onto boost and full power, and yourgonna lean out big time. With one main pump, if the pump fails, the car stops... better to tow it home than lean it out without knowing. This one we cut off the 044 mount from the PW surge tank and made an alloy mount for the A1000 pump

80s are fine on E85, we made a fat 550kw on them last week, though we did run higher rail pressure... mine runs 80s on stock rail pressure and has seen 490s staying in the 12s For 380 - 400wkws you'll need what Whistler just posted... but depending on who tunes it will decide on boost level, but expect 17psi to 20psi... also depends on how good the turbo is, your motors health ect. But those parts will support 400wkws on a good healthy motor and turbo

Pull the intake off and it should punch 400 (that's if your using the ubat cai)

My wife hasno problems driving mine, even with over 400kws she's never had any issues. We did a Melb to Syd drive mostly in the rain and she was fine for the few hours she drove. Just leave the traction control on, its set up to work with the open diff, and works very well.

Ok guys, I'll post up when ready

We've done a few of them in alloy, and will make a batch of them shortly.

As long as it popped over 400 that is lol

LOL well if it blows atleast you were already expecting it. One thing you can bank on, is it wont detonate on E85 unless you really run alot of boost and balls up the AFRs badly.

Dont worry if it looses some top end power, it'll be alot safer if the car was tuned on the edge the first time. Better to have a safe tune with a bit less power, than one on the edge for the sake of a number on a dyno sheet.

Awesome result Ben... there's a blue ute we have to hit with 30psi now to keep up with you

Go for it mate, 400 isnt that huge these days on E85... but atleast you know the risk and will expect a leg to jump out of bed at some stage For saftey Id run a twin feed fuel rail, 80lb injectors, 1000hp of fuel pump ( one 044 isnt really enough ) metal fuel filter, surge tank, and a in cabin mounted Wide band 02 I'd prob be keen to run an external wastegate to minimize any boost creep. At this level you want perfect AFRs all the time and want to be able to monitor them... so any increase in boost may be enough to go beyoyd the limit and break the motor if it leans due to a boost spike. But E85 will be your biggest safty margin

Here's a few I prepared earier lol Both the same intake/airbox on my old BA, just different PSI levels.

Awesome work mate, crackin 60 foooter!

Looks good 01txr, get an airbox in there and it'll be even better down low. What spec did you get it built to? There's a good half dozen combos for most turbos, so be nice to see what yours is... Wheelspin at low revs us another thing that sux and is greatly reduced with big turbos, and when correctly set up and tuned can be very progresive in power delivery. I'm sure if you come to Sydney one of us will take you for a run and change your mind

Comparing those two turbos isn't a good comparison really. To4z spec'd up to allow it's full HP is around 700hp, a gt42 spec'd up to it's max hp is around 1100hp at 30psi, with the z making 700hp on 20psi ( give or take) so in reallity both turbos will make similar power on 20psi, just the z is right on it's maximum, but the 42 is starting to get into it's stride and can go up and see 400hp more, so loads of headroom if you want to go over 450kw later on. This is one of the reasons why I put a gt45 on my G6ET, 460wks on 21psi with room to punch 30psi when the motor gets built. Qik1 is totally right about having the correctly match and flowing system to eliminate as much lag as possible... Anyone can buy the manifold and big turbo, bolt it all on and make big power, the hard stuff which is commonly overlooked, is reducing lag through many avenues during the hardware choice and the tuning and set up process. ZF equipped cars will always cover up some lag from big turbos due to their fast gear change, good ratios and quick convertors. 4spds can get stuck at the wrong ratio/rpm which can put you right in a laggy spot, which wouldn't happen at slightly higher rpm, this is similar with T56 which has ratios better suited to smaller turbos. Diff ratio change is another way to rid lag, even though going numerically higher in diff ratio will not change the motors static performance, it will keep the motor up higher in the rpm and bring the boost on fast all the time. Anyone that's seen Rickys ute in action will know what I'm talking about there! So there's alot more to think about and plan out when it comes to turbo upgrade choices. As mentioned above, changing to a turbo that has different oil, water size fittings will add $$ to the job, different size inlet and outlets on the comp housing will add $$ in piping / fabrication, different inlet on the turbine housing usually means a new manifold ( unless your handy with welding and fab work) and then there's different flange for the dump pipe plus it's new position... So do the sums befor you jump into it. For my own car, don't use less than a 1000hp turbo, but I like the massive kick up the bum you get from a really big turbo, and the never ending top end power delivery. And if your cars tuned well in NA it will make a big turbo come on so much better... And E85 just adds to the party Lag isn't an issue these days if the poeple sorting the car are up with it. Also the GT51R is a nice turbo that can be set up to work very well, it's a good option.

Have a look around on Fordmods.com forum, the boys their will help you out. Extractors/exhaust, new intake, cams , tuning are the usual power upgrades for Eseries.