RAP1D

All the bar & plate coolers on the xr6 market are made in china, some just charge more...

Ha

On the topic of 600x300 coolers, the first BA to run a 9 sec quarter used a cheap Chinese 600x300... If that matters or not isn't an issue, but there's way too much fluff and useless data surrounding intercoolers, go to the drags and see what cars are performing and what's cars arnt... A lot of guys there with big dollars spent and cars not going anywhere near as fast as they could be.

Toads, your saying you logged hardly any difference in lag between the .5 to the .7 compressor housing, which is basically what I stated, the small amount of lag CAN be removed through tuning , such as inlet cam timing , and as a lot of tuners don't touch cam timing in an initial tune, a tweak later can yield good improents in spool up, maybe not a huge change, but enough to improve on the .7 housings minor loss Greater loss when increasing the A/R on the turbine (exhaust) housing is right, but what housing did you change to? A back to back test you did must have been two housings both externally gated... Or is there a bigger A/R internal gate housing that will bolt to the ford 35/40 t3 frame that you used for the test? The topic isn't really concerned with changing the turbine housing, non of the turbos mentioned have. Not having a go mate, your post just reads odd when you mentioned turbine housing.

that's a bit more than your tuner told me, but you did go from my stage 1 cooler to PW stage 3 cooler , so for the extra $$$$$ you'd want a power increase and temp drop... then again if you fitted a Plaz cooler you'd make more power again, but the kid doesnt like them either Like I said, compare Apples with Apples.

This is what Veva has, the compressor wheel is basically the same diameter but a direrent fin design which cuts in close the the centre shaft, allowing more airflow. This is pretty much the same deal as the GTX compressor billet wheels. When you change to a larger / heavier compressor wheel, lag will increase slightly as it will when you increase the compressor housing AR, as in going from a standard housing of .5, to a larger .7 AR housing. A good tuner will be able to alter to the tune to make up for this loss... Vevas FG is definatley no lag monsta.

There's alot of techical differences between all these kits, obviously prices vary, as does "to chop or not" but poeple are also overlooking some very important facts... I wont crap on and make it look like a lame sales pitch, but please consider and think about your ultimate goals and what you want from the car. When I first set out designing the V1 intercooler kit, I considered a small thin core , like the F6 unit, but after some testing of the factor G6ET / XR6T intercooler, it was found that flow and cooling wasnt too bad, nothing great but enough for resonable power due to its good design and well laid out piping. The F6 cooler is better again due to its larger core/ end tanks, so my decision was not to try to make something small and easy to slip in, but make something that was priced well, would suit entry level budget but also handle the higher 600kw end of the market. My view was why sell something marginally better than factory when for the same basic manufacturing costs we can produce a product that will support a huge power increase and gives the customer future growth for bigger power. With the V1 kit you get the large cooler with 3inch inlet and outlets, no others at this price range have this size, the cold side piping is 3inch and goes directly to the throttle body eliminating the plastic elbow, again no other kits in this price range have this, the hot side and cold side are designed to fit my battery relocation kit & plazmaman relo kit, a few of the other kits wont allow for battery relo kits so check these factors if your thinking of upgrading at a later point. Same deal with the my 4inch and 3.5inch short intake & airbox kits for the drivers side, a few kits wont suit these, though Plaz & PW will as they have the same upgrad-ablility. On the upside I have designed piping adapter kits to suit some of the other intercooler & piping kits to use my battery relocation and 4inch & 3.5inch intake / airbox systems, plus the alloy Elbow replacment for those who have cracked factory plastic Elbows. So best to compare apples with apples and make an informed & educated decision, rather than cheapest or shinniest or what ever. Cheers Chris

I really think poeple are getting too paranoid about Ethonal fuel and not being told or understanding the main beneifts of using it. There's alot of pro's and cons with it and its really something you need to consider personally, rather than go by what is read on many forums... There's a few guys commenting in this thread that I have been involved with in setting up their cars and giving them information, soley based on our ( Rapidsystems and Crescent motorsport ) have found while extensivley testing and tuning with CALTEX & UNITED SYDNEY "E85" fuels. You've got the cost, which is less than 98 by around 20-40cent a litre ( give or take ), the MPH factor which greatly varies depending on how the TUNER sets AFRs & timing at cruise & light throttle, its going to use sh*tloads on WOT so lets not even worry about that, but your general rule of thumb that I have seen is, add 30% flow to a given system designed for 98... example 60lb dekas are happy to support 400wkws (again this is a general figure as an example), so if you want your 400wkws on E85 ( be it Eflex 70% or United 90% ), add in the extra 30% flow of injectors & pump(s) and your in the ball park. I use 80lb injectors at 450wkws which have been great. At the other end of the scale, say someone with 350wkws but not wanting more, you can still get the benefits of Ethonal while staying at the medium power level. Benefits can be a cooler running engine, cleaner engine, cooler fuel, less boost used to run same power, more timing advance ( so more power ), when tuned with more timing advance / leaner AFR at cruise better fuel ecconemy , or at least similar fuel ecconemy at a cheaper pump price... and lets not forget that there is alot less polution. At the big end of the scale you can push way more boost into a motor, and more timing long befor it will detonate, but you still need to stay within the motors mechanical abillity, as in dont go bonkers and run 30+ psi on a stock motor like I do, it will break eventually, it can just take longer... though my first FG motor only broke due to massive lean out at 35+psi , I'm sure with correct fueling it would still be fine as it ran 30psi for a decent amount of time. AFR mixtures dont seem to be as anal as with 98 in regards to making power, we've seen the power figure stay constant on 10:1 up to 14:1, where as on 98 there is a huge change in power. So by those results you can see how much of a broader "window" the tuner has to opperat and tune with... a little touch leaner here and there isnt going to cause the same issues that it does with 98, so if your tuned to an AFR at WOT of 11.0 on one servos Ethonal mix, and fill at another servo and see it lean off to 12.5 as an example, its not time to freak out and wait for a big bang. So I say use it while we still have it, as Ive heard talk of it being dropped from sale due to lack of sales... then again we hear talk of more servos planning to sell it, so who knows there. But if you have a servo, either Caltex or United near you on or your route to work, get into it, its the best thing that's happened to performace cars in years, extra kws at the pump, for less $ , you cant say no to that. By the way, I'm not talking about any "barrel Ethonal " or special blends / mixes ect, from what Ive been told, caltex and United have additives to suit our cars which is why the factory filters and lines are holding up very well... Ive no idea if these barrel mix's have additives in them, which is possibly why poeple have had fuel line & filter issues. Get into the stuff... its awesome, boost up and have piece of mind. Cheers Chris

Patty cake is Pat, but Matty is bit of a Patty cake too lol The old Gbangers missing a few bits under the bonnet so wont make it... hopefully next time!

Patty cake LOL There should be some video footage of the veva machine going round, so lets hope it stays in one piece and makes loads of smoke

Yep, I run a Greddy Profec in my G6, its nice to have a lower boost setting for low gears and traction

Shame to see your selling mate, one tuff ute that's for sure!

Hey Broadie, Prob a bit late but I've emailed them to you, any dramas just call me 0403981831 Cheers Chris

CHIN WAH ran 11.2 on them, can't too bad lol

Amazing the difference in boost loss between intercooler kits, Just keep it off high boost mate, you know what to do.

Ive got the 4inch ss on my G6ET, the rear section on 3.5 an 4inch is tight but fiddly to get positioned perfectly, mine is but took a few goes. One mod I regret is not pushing the stock motor befor it accidently broke... never got a chance to dyno it at 35psi lol

Me, veva, frcfed and a few others, we have about 8 cars on eflex, and we've cut a lot if filters in half to see how they cope... All have been fine, but they are also all genuine ford filters. Ryco, and other non genuine ones I can't comment on, but the ford ones are fine. To save confusion or misunderstandings,I'm talking about caltex eflex... The barrel stuff apparently can eat filters and hoses.

Why run e85 to make the same power? Make more power on less boost Tune more economically for daily driving Engin runs cooler Better in the environment It's cheaper... Even though you burn more a weekly tank still works out cheaper Noisy 044s are heaps quieter Ect ect

And those clamps are fine, if they're biting into the hose you've done them up too tight or the hose is crap. Sell at repco I believe...

No you don't need a surge tank to run e85, you need more fuel supply... Put a Walbro in and you can run e85 up to low 300s

I can think of at least 5 fgs that's have blown at that low power level, and they generally break from lean afrs as a result of lack of fuel, or bad tuning. Any power increase over standard is a risk.

Lol ok mate, Im just thinking out loud here... no need to analize it , or have a go. But I still say a pres guage is worth having in the interest of being aware of whats going on... I'll dig up my video of the guage showing rail pressure falling during a 1/4mile run, from a set 45psi, upto 70psi on 25psi boost, falling down to 50odd at the end of the track, still at 25psi... its a shame I dint get the AFR reading next to it to see how lean it got. On Eflex too so fairly lucky there.

Ok here's some fluf... You never seen an electronic fuel pressure gauge? Sensor stays in the engine bay...some even have an alarm you can set.... And since when do you have to sit on wot to max out a fuel system? Plenty if not most will do 15psi or more at half throttle... 1000nm at half throttle at 3500rpm will defiantly max a stock fuel system... I'd rather have a bit of warning than nothing at all. I bet there's loads of guys that drive round like with the stereo up loud, windows up , no chance of hearing any ping. Just trying to help people out, if I suggest something a bit out of the ordinary, like running a fuel pres gauge or using a wideband, doesn't mean everyone rush out and do it, it's just an option, may not be the norm of xr6t mods , but it's an option... But please don't read it as a solution, it's not, it's a warning, just like a boost gauge is.

Running around 300kw on the stock pump is fine, but it's also going to working close to its limits, most of the time you'll get away with it and not have any dramas. Then there's other times when the tank might get a bit low, you push the car hard around a long sweeping corner, the pump struggles to pick up fuel for a second or two , fuel pressure goes down and fuel mixtures lean out for a few seconds... The motor most likely won't blow up right there and then, but have this happen a few more times and some of the damage is already done. The same thing happens on hard launchs and under hard breaking, hard acceleration up hill ect even bringing power on in 4th on the freeway can do it. A fuel system that capable of holding solid fuel pressure & supply is one of the most important things our cars need, why else would a lot of tuners recommend a surge tank & pump upgrade... They don't want you coming back with a broken motor after they tune it. If your on a tight budget and are relying on the stock system (pump) fit a fuel pressure gauge so you can at least see if there's low pressure and jump off the throttle. I'm not saying this to sell a stack of surge tanks, it's fact and by now should be common knowledge, which for most guys on here it is.