RAP1D

Alot of workshops charge around $500 for seimens injectors, theres trade list prices from Seimens / VDO dealers that are still higher than the EBay sellers, then the workshop likes to put some profit on top, so you end up around $500, no ones been ripped off, the customer just could have bought them alot cheaper else where... pays to shop around and ask all the questions

Great result, and looks awesome!

Pat that's Alfs old BA Great car mate, well looked after and a tuff motor.

Its a sign of the times... look at all the Euro suv size cars with small cc turbo motors, alot of them are great to drive and have plenty of power for the average motorist. Im sure boosting up the eco motor will give more torque and power and make it a decent drive. My 03 XC70 is 2.5lt turbo, weighs 1900kg and keeps up with most falcon/commo cars very easilly... running 16psi in it helps it hold off alot of cars. The ecoboost falcon isnt really my sort of thing, but its clearly marketed toward the camry type market... The more sales Ford can pick up with new style cars, the better the chance they will continue to offer cars to the performance market... I'd hate to see TATA's version of the F6...

Theres more and more stock FG motors going mid 400s these days, mine did it fine and most probly will too... but at this high boost level you need to cover all parts and set it up correctly, no skimping

There's now 2 different coolers to choose from in all my V1 - V4.5 kits. The smaller "Street" cooler fits in with just a minor bend to the aircon line, and the "HighFlow" cooler which is the original one that does require a bit of metal cutting.

35/40 is just a nick name, for 400 you want a FG F6 spec standard turbo, know as gt3540. The xr6 and g6 also has a gt3540 but it's comp wheel is different, has around 20% less flow, so makes less power. There's no real garrett turbo that has the bigger 66mm comp wheel as a direct bolt on, there is only custom variations. Some mod the 66mm wheel and comp housing to fit the stoch turbos , others mod a to4z to fit in the stock exhaust housing. There's also some funky new billet varieties being made and tested that are proving a good alternative.

I haven't seen any facts on how e85 sits in storage, though I have have half a tank of eflex that's been in the car 5 months , so if it starts on in the next few weeks, we'll have some idea of how it stores... Maybe Veva can bring his chemistry set in and test it... Mine runs all factory fuel lines and filter without any issues, though I mainly use eflex which is said to have anti corrosives mixed in, where as the drum racing mixes may not. Does anyone know if Expensive Daewoo changed lines and filters in their Flex cars to suit ethonal? Also heard awhile ago that Caltex , in agreement with Holden, we're stating they would have around 100 servos supplying Eflex the full length of the Eastern states... That will be great if it happens.

Hey Simon, Good simple test, if it won't fatten up you know you'll have issues. Great thing with e85 is even if it leans a bit more than intended, your margin for detonation is still large. Toads you'd need to mod the niz intake cast section , cut it down so a 4inch silicon bend fits, that's if there's enough length on it, or use another 4inch intake pipe. The 0.7 ar front housing can't be machined from 4inch inlet to 3inch, there's not enough material to cut away ... Unless you welded on a section, but welding comp housings isn't the greatest idea, the TIGs heat can warp them. Good to see more guys considering e85... Bout time we caught up to the EVO guys

Yeah your cars set up very well mate.

Too true... I was going to post last week when I first saw the thread, but I also wanted to see what mats car did on the other dyno, but turns out he has some re-occuring sh*t in his fuel system that needs sorting. Its great that poeple have a lot of trust and faith in their chosen tuner / mechanic, and no one should be bagging one or the other for having different views, its all good info that needs to be spelt out clearly for some. Another thing I see constantly is tuners being backed into a "power corner" without the customer fully understanding thier cars issues or their own goals... I see guys go from shop to shop, telling tuner they expect X kws because their mate or a bunch of dudes in another state are making that power figure, regardless of other small variations that have a huge effect on power, and the willingness of a tuner to push the car harder than other tuners... this leave the tuner backed in a corner, thinking sh*t, should I smash boost into it and make the X kws he wants, or should I respect the fact that his motor has 150000kays on it, his fuel system is juuuust big enough to support the power, tune it safer but at a lower power than he wants?? Tune it up to X kws and fingers crossed it doesnt go bang?? Tune it up to X kws and not give a sh*t if it goes bang?? Tune it to less than X kws but its safe , should go bang, but will customer be happy or pissed he didnt get X kws for all his mods he paid for??

Fix any mechanical / elec problems befor chasing power on dyno.

Yes 35psi bent 3 rods and broke a ring, cracked a skirt.... but as Ive said many times, this was from a massive "lean backfire" of which the fuel system completely ran empty ( part of my R&D and data lagging in real time ) The motor did happily handle 25psi for a year befor , plus many quick 30psi pokes on the freeway. This shows the importance of a big fuel system and not running the tank too low, even my 4lt surge tank didnt save it due to the main tank being so low... cant pump into a surge tank if it isnt there to pump. If you plan to build the motor, aim for 400wkws, with all the correct supporting mods it "should " be fine, but dont be driving round thinking its bullet proof, lots of other factors can make them pop, but usually fuel related... over boost = lean mixture = bang. Correct, accurate boost control (wastegate/actuator/tune) , good cooling and flow from intake , IC, and exhaust and good solid fuel supply is ultra important if you want the motor to stay in one piece.

So that's got only ONE 044, looking at lambda v boost, at pretty much the same rpm as boost begins to fall away (20-17psi??) fuel begins to lean off, at pretty much the same rate. This is "usually" a fair indication your running out of fuel supply (pump maxing out). The question you could ask is, what happens if boost is raised in the top end, say rather than hit 20psi and drop off, if it held 20psi, to red line, will the pump (and / or Injectors) continue to flow enogh fuel to keep lambda at a desired 0.80 - 0.85? at 20psi... or will fuel continue to lean off? But in saying that , fuel looks fine 0.85 for E85 is pretty much the sweet spot, and power is certainly sufficient to run the numbers at the track. The concern with road cars is always the safty margin, which is pretty much what this thread has been discussing... Dale suggesting that a fuel system should have a decent safety margin in its supply, and by saying 044 isnt enough to to support AND give a decent saftey margin of flow... Simply looking at this graph supports his comments on the 044, but bear in mind , we are only looking at a graph, there may be enough fuel that allows more the tuner to comand more fuel in the top end, or maybe it doesnt. The graph also supports those saying ONE 044 will run your car to mid 400s. If anything, this thread shows how awesome E85 is, and your lower reading Eflex is... if you really have to stretch out your fuel system tothe max, use E85! Any data logging for this car at the track? Be interesting to see how stable boost is and what happens to AFRs at the top of the track?

Take your clubs out of the boot this time Heisenburg

Bingo!

I just sent you a txt asking for it again as I must have written it down wrong... or NAB rejected the hotmail account, but either way it bounced back, time on the trans is 14:53... Either txt it or call me or post it here

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Yeah first ones were made with PWR tube & fin cores, as on BCL ba back in the day... I remember when it was swapped out for a plaz 1000hp cooler There's a few tube & fin coolers... Hdi FG , plaz , but the majority are bar & plate. As for the HP ratings, they are just a rating, look at the number as a rating of power support... 1000hp cooler is designed to support a motor that will produce 1000hp fly or around 600wkw, but it's also happy at 300kw... So the rating is there to let you know what ball park your in, so to speak.

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The set I have in my g6et have been through dyno hell and back, actually outlasted two bottom ends in the car. In the first motor they coped with 25psi all day every day, ALOT of dyno runs and plenty of R&D 30-35psi hits on the freeway. I don't really recommend them for too much over 25psi, 550kw, Atomic have great springs for 30plus psi, 600plus But in saying that at that 600plus level it's best to leave valve train parts to your engine builder. the perfect valve spring for the majority of xr6 f6 and G6s out there.

I'll try too lol

$279 and plenty in stock... made in US not china like some... and none have broken like some either

Yeah more boost mate!

That ones a early plazmaman rip-off copy... Funny thing is they copied a really old piping kit that even plazmaman and myself barely sell due to having kits that are waaaaaaay better these days... Kind of like copying a AU falcon and releasing it as new lol