RAP1D

Has it dropped to $2.05? It was $2.75 in Cali last Nov and I thought that was pretty good lol

Yeah the stock rubber joiner isnt the best... make sure its clean inside and doesnt have oil vapours on the surfaces and it "should" be ok on stock boost. Failing that you can use a new piece of silicon hose, 3.25inch dia, about 60mm long, and some strong clamps. Atleast the throttle body on the FG has a bigger lip, than BA BF,to join to... one of hundreds of little improvments ford made to the FG

Stay with 3inch mate if you want to make good power at all rpm's... 2.5 can give better low down power/torque, but 3inch just makes the motor breath so much better. Yes there can be less low end power, but any decent tuner will be able to give you more than enough low down power to shred tyres, so dont stress about it too much.

The V3.5 kit will get you to the maximum power the stock plenum will flow, basically the plenum is the only restriction left in the intake system. I've seen some high 300s with this kit (and the supporting mods) R_SPEC, yours is a V3.0 kit matey... has the smaller under battery intake (unless you changed it?) Either way your BF is/was making great power

Rear mounts work fine, we used to sell an alloy one like this but I pulled it due to the fact its not the ideal location on a road car, but each to their own. Factor in the cost of the 044 pump and 4m of EFI hose (dont use normal $5 fuel hose or it will eventuall perish) plus the fittings ect. If you want an alloy one, we have them at $450 for the basic tank.

Its a good idea not to touch the PCV system at all on modern cars, just run the oil/air separation system off the engin breather fitting...tampering with the factory PCV fittings will make it look like the emmisions systems have been changed, and you'l most likely end up with a sticker on your window. Buzzdog, there's a few threads on here from guys that have done simple catch can systems.

Yeah you should be able to stall it up past 2300, and if there's grip, go over 5psi.

Legally you must have the breather running back into the intake, between air filter and TB. As per factory, this is the way it is already and fine on low standard boost, once boost is increased their is a greater chance of oil vapours entering the intake system, and into the combustion chambers, and oil isnt good for combustion so the more oil in there the greater chance of detonation. With the XR6Ts getting older now, motors are more prone to blow by and turbos can loosen up and blow more oil, so a catch can system is well worth using. The old filter on the rocker cover works well, but isnt legal so keep that method for race cars.

Woah... hats off to anyone that can drive a "widowmaker" like that and stay out of the trees!

Nice mate... the stance makes it look like your carting a few fat pollies around lol

I have the dump on my FG wrapped from turbo right down to the cat which is just behind the seat, and the 2inch wastegate pipe which is about the same length... I mainly did this to reduce heat going into the floor, and help reduce temps under the bonnet. I wouldnt wrap a thin walled stainless steel dump pipe, as it will be likely to crack as mentioned above. But, I did have the stock manifold on my previous BA wrapped for about 40ooo kays without issues, so the stock BA manifolds are pretty strong to start with. I wouldnt wrap a FG manifold as they are stainless steel so may crack eventually... The wrap is great for reducing engin bay temps... the other effects are debatable as "smoke them tyres" mentioned above.

Exactly... A nice number on a dyno is one thing, but its real worl driving where the difference will so up... there's loads of good threads on here about upgrading intercoolers and their great results.

I think he may be thinking of the older style Siemens injectors, which have a single orifice pintle. These ones have a quad orifice, same as the stock injector... see pic. The specs are listed on our website if there needed. FG Siemens injectors

Mate dont use wd40, its a lubricant, easy on, easy off lol Clean it all up, degrease ect. The best thing to do is put some water on the pipes/hoses when fitting, they will be easy to slide around and adjust so you can get everything in the right position. The tighten all the clamps up... water dries and its a perfect join that wont burst off. Let me know if the joiner is no good and I'll get you a new one

At the end of the day its a good idea to use the injectors your chosen tuner is recomending, if they are getting great results form them, then go with them. Even though I use and sell Seimens Deka injectors, I always tell poeple to use what ever their tuner recomends as they will usually get the best results from the injectors they prefer to use. There's no point in rocking up to your tuner with injectors they dont want to use, if you want to use the Dakas, find a tuner that's happy to use them, if your happy with the tuner you have, then use what they recomend. The 60lb & 80lb short (FG) and long (BA BF) Dekas have a 4 orifice, 30degree spray pattern, perfect for our multi valve heads.

Nice work mate, the cars coming along now.

It shouldnt blow off, the turbo outlet has its edge raised, as does the piping. I'd say theres some oil residue from the turbo in there that's worked it way in between the alloy and silicon joiner. Take it all off, degrease all the surfaces, totally clean & degrease the silicon joiner, and refit with a new clamp, and do up tight. One problem is that these turbo blow oil, and it will seep into the joins while the car sits, and with that join being closest to the turbo, and hanging straight down, its the first place the oil will sit. Just make sure all surfaces are free from grease... if its been popping off alot Id say it greasy inside.

Nothing wrong with a double quarter pounder...

All clutches wear out, regardles of how you drive, still going to eventually wear out. 341wkws is alot of power, and with clutches its the huge torque going through them that wears them out, you dont have to rev over 4000 to be putting the clutch at its limit.

Yeah atleast wait till 3000 service incase there's any warranty issues... but Id also wait a good 5000kays, each to their own though.

Hmm, thanks maaate lol

There are a few good options for straight bolt on replacement, which will support around the 400+wkw mark... depends on what your willing to spend and what your ultimate power goal is. Do you want 400 or do you want to go 500+ with a built motor ect... The stock FG xr6t/g6et turbo has the smaller compressor wheel, so even just replacing that is going to cost you in terms of rebuilding the turbo, balancing and re-fitting ect. A good option is to swap it with an off the shelf Garrett GT3582R, which is basically an F6 FG unit with a larger .70a/r comp housing, so you can expect alittle more power from it over the stock F6 turbo, and around a decent 20-30% increase over the stock XR6T FG unit. These have the bigger comp housing, so need you to enlarge your intake and outlet IC pipe joiner, which is no big deal if your still to upgrade the IC & intake systems. Above this we can do a GT3566R and have it built to take a 66mm compressor wheel in the stock compressor housing, this doesnt need any intake mods as it retains the ford compressor cover. Contact me if you want to discuss more options. Chris.

You can call me tomorow if you like and we'll go through what you've got and if you need anything. 0403 981 831

Great... lol

Yeah they arnt comparable to Pilots, but for the $ not too bad... yeah mine copped some chunks out of the sidewalls too. I used spacers welded into the rims, with longer studs on the rear to bring the 295s out, otherwise they rubbed inside... fat look from behind!