RAP1D

Yeah the AEM gauges are very cool, they do matching boost gauges which look awesome in a twin pod.

I use AEM wideband in my G6ET, works very well, and is very accurate. And looks just like a normal gauge. click for details

Hey Guys, I've replied to all emails that have come through, but PM or call me if you havnt heard from me. 0403 981 831 Reg, you can pick up anytime you like, just let me know when mate. Anyone else in Syd can pick up too during work hours. Cheers Chris

Herrod has a drive in drive out package for G6ET, best to call for the price.

Yeah that's all true... an easy way to look at it is that an engine is basically and air pump, the more air it can move (CFM), the more power it will make (in theory) A larger plenum volume can hold a larger amount of presurised air, waiting for the engine to physically take in the air, so if you can imagine a large amount of presurized air waiting to go in as soon as valves open, will force more volume of air in, a smaller plenum will have less volume of air to force into the motor. Pressure, psi, will be the same for all plenums/pipings ect, its like a big balloon filled at 20psi and a small balloon filled at 20psi, they both hold the same ressure, but with different volums of air, so took different times to effectivley fill and reach 20psi. In turbo system the time to fill isnt that much different, its common talk to say a bigger plenum, or bigger IC piping will cause lag due to extra time to fill, this may be true on smaller cc motors (2lt 4cyl for example) but on a big cc 4lt motor, correctly tuned, this isnt an issue. It's also worth noting that a big 4lt motor requires alot of air to work well in NA, that is befor boost is fully on, so by running a small plenum and/or piping system, efficiency of the motor in NA (off boost) will be greatly reduced... this is why BA BF respond so well to larger intake/exhaust systems, as they are very restricted from factory... image the power reduction is you put a 2inch pipe restrictor on the intake of a V8. Hope that all makes sense lol

Tighten all the inlet manifold and throttle body studs, most likely a vacume leak.

Well done mate, I'd say you converted a few Jap car guys

I must say there's some tuff looking motors there!

Over/through the diff cradle is where is REALLY tight, which is why some 4inch systems drop down to 3.5inch through the rear.

We make a 4inch BA BF system, but only in-house on the car... there's such tight clearances with 4inch pipe that there can be all sorts of rubbing/banging issues when not made on the actual car... made to any spec- street or race ect.

Comp wheel and housing are different... housing "looks" the same as F6 but inside its a touch smaller to keep the AR to .5 with the smaller wheel. Some options are; Grab a FG F6 (or BA BF but make sure the wastegate port is enlarged)) turbo, fit it, re-tune and go. Have you stock FG turbo upgraded/high flowed... pulled appart, larger comp wheel fitted, housing machined to suit... fit it, retune and go. Or mod the stock one but with a bigger wheel again (bigger than F6) and machined stock comp cover or bigger .7 cover. The above mod is my pick as its similar $ with around 50-100hp more than the FG F6 turbo... so should easily support mid 400wkws, but you'll need to change the intake to suit the 4inch inlet on the comp housing and the outlet is 2.5inch so would need a mod to suit.

Don't be too concerned with kws if you looking at faster 0-100 times... torque and how it is delivered through the rev range will make a huge difference to how the car jumps off the line. FG's with the small turbo & ZF dont really need to be stalled up much on the street, usually stalling up ends in wheelspin on stock tyres. With the correct offset, you can fit 295s in the rear without any mods, but choose a decent tyre. Its no easy feat making a 1900kg 2wd car jump off the line fast, power/responce/torque isnt the hard part, its getting it to the ground that's the hard part... and smart throttle use

Yeah basically, remove the bov and you'll get some flutter but wont be much on stock psi... if you want some extra spool noise get on of these Intake pipe

Some cars will need a touch up tune, others wont... It really depends on how the car is tuned prior to changing the hotside piping. Its a smart move to ALWAYS get the car on the dyno when hardware has been changed as some tunes have more margin for extra airflow, and others are right on the limit.

Maybe be call ACL, as its pressed from the same material as they sell in sheets.

Looks nice now, but I'd get rid of those brass plumbers fittings and fit in some Speedflow fittings

Looks like time for a good service, change all the basics such as spark plugs, fuel & air filters, clean out the boost solenoid, clean the turbo feed oil line/change filter. Torque up all exhaust manifold bolts/studs, all the turbo bolts/studs. Tighten all hose clamps on the intercooler system & intake. With all the basic service things done, if theres still issues you/workshop can start looking at bigger areas such as coils, turbo ect. But allways smart to sort all the basics out first, especially at these high kays.

Nice one mate, black always looks great... bit of a jump from the EF, Enjoy!

Yep must do the actuator too... unless its already had a stronger one fitted earlier.

If it's reliability your after, then this is the smartest and safest way to make 300wkws.

Depends on what you want Scott... mild steel is the cheapest, contact me for a propper quote but alot less than 2 grand in mild, and built on your car. If you cant get to Sydney I can do good prices on CES and Xforce. It is nice to do a full custom system though, you can choose what mufflers you want and pipe material which greatly effect the sound of the system. We can also do systems with V banded de-cat pipes and easilly removed mid sections for drags/race ect

Drive up to Sydney mate, we'll custom build you a 4inch dump/5inch cat with either 4inch or 3.5inch single system, mild steel or 404 stainless... quiet idle/cruise and wild on full boost

Hey mate, PM me your email and I'll send you some instal info.

Top result for low boost mate, enjoy!

Yeah good point Pat... running higher boost on them will shorten their life, so good idea to keep them new.