josh1990

When I fitted an Xtreme heavy duty clutch (and flywheel) along with a BF T56 to my BA, I used an alloy slave (from Mal Wood) and needed a 10mm spacer behind the slave to get the correct crush. You'd know about it from the get go though. Have you tried draining fluid completely and chucking some new fluid in? Was the slave cylinder replaced with the clutch? It's supposed to be changed every time.

Am el Andrew - just posted as josh1990

could you remove each door switch one at a time and manually short/unshort that circuit (not sure if the circuit is open or closed when door is closed) and see whether the door open indicator turns off? If you can get it to respond that way, you know the BEM is good and which door switch is bad.

Vasectomy (Will get one before I need a mini van )

Hotdog

Moist

Don't forget donations. If every member contributed just $10, the forum would benefit greatly. Look at the date on this post Edit: @Rab or any other moderator, this is puffwagon, not Josh.

Just an update Going with a custom tailshaft. 3" x 0.083 tube with strange 1330 weld-ins, 1330 front yoke with Moog uni, 1330-1310 Moog uni in rear to mate up to AU diff. Came out mid-range between my other options. Still considering a loop at this stage, but not an immediate priority.

Which stick is that mate?

Hey peeps, long time lurker. I own a BA XR6 ute, non turbo (I know, I know). I joined here after reading some good info in the N/A discussion. My ute is factory T5 manual, which has recently spat the dummy. No 5th or Reverse and has been whining for a while. Quoted part kits from Mal wood to rebuild, came in at just under $700. Austrans, similar price. Same sh*t box after (have been through a few of these now in my old xf, even eseries wc does) the job though. So I've bought a T56 to replace my T5. Now, it's getting the bugger to fit (cheap!). I currently have a single piece tailshaft, probably came with the AU diff (we all know how sh*t BA diffs are) it has in it (previous owner). The centre bearing mount is there, but, there is no thread in the holes. I have a new turbo clutch and flywheel, csc, the t56 is ~10k km old turbo unit (engine blew) I have 2 options (I think); Option 1: keep single piece tailshaft and get new yoke to suit gearbox. Will need a 1330/1310 uni joint. Hopefully keep this under $200. Hopefully the slip yoke dampener will press off easily and onto new one. Plus a balance. So maybe $350 total. Maybe a tailshaft loop? Option 2: New BF tailshaft - $750, new donut and new diff cv $$?, new flange for my diff (has an flange suit uni). So probably around $1k. I'm not doing a million Kms an hour. I'm not pushing 1000hp through the driveline. Which way should I go? Money is there for both, BUT, I'm a uni student and I don't have a lot of cash flow, so I'd rather keep my savings intact if I can. Much appreciated