Brendon Wrigley

is the chassis/driveline/body mounts the same from RWD to AWD, if so you should be able to put AWD driveline under a RWD? it would make sense that the chassis and mount points are standard between AWD and RWD for ease of mass producing

cheers ben

So I've seen on facebook and various other place that people have swapped out the earlier design (prone to ball joint failure) to the redesigned MK2 deisgn. What was involved? (just bolt in or significant mods). What parts do you need off the MK2? Worth it? any other tricks to catch out new players? Cheers in advance

Hey Freak, yeah I had seen them to and its seems like it could be a plausible option. depending on size (radius and depth). I'm still thinking the factory buttons would still be the go, for a cleaner look) just need to work out how they're mounted/integrated in the ICC (I don't have a spare to pull apart). Rab, everything but these 4 buttons is on the screen, I assume to wasn't worth the cost vs benefit to move all these into the screen as well? maybe different systems (particularly the T/C) NathanB, I looked at these ones too but mainly the lack of Blue tooth killed that option for me and the small screen). I prefer the factory look too hence looking for an integrated option (not a head unit in the void at the bottom), respray in the factory trim and tryign to suss out better buttons.

Hi guys trying to find some info on the ICC buttons in the premium ICC. The ones along the bottom. I'm looking at one of these units for my TTG, but I'll be getting it painted in piano black. I reckon the buttons on it are a bit poxy/cheap looking so looking to at ways to swap it with the factory ones (I know with the factory ones the HVAC button won't be there) or some other ones (preferably backlit) Anyone got any info on these buttons, how easy they are to remove, source etc or if anyone's aware of alternatives?

Hey guys never ended up posting my fix. ended up being the ABS unit its self, replace it and fault went away and hasn't come back

agreed

Hi guys, these people who have aftermarket gauges in a center pod (or pillar) What style gauge are you running and what gauges (boost/oil pressure etc)? I have a Turbo Ghia and would like the gauges to match closely. the closest style I can find is the autometer Ultra-Lite II http://www.autometer.com/gauges/ultra-lite-2.html (digital steppers seem to only be Fahrenheit for temps though) was thinking boost and oil pressure, haven't made the pod yet so might be provision for 3 if there is a 3rd that might be important (I have run water temp and oil pressure in other non turbo cars I think for the TT (not Ghia) Cobalt seems to be the closest style. anyone found anything else?

seems there website is down, anyone know if they're still in business

thanks I'll look into them

Does anyone know if the F6X cluster will plug in to the Turbo ghia and what colour the backlights are on the f6x (white still or blue/purple)? IF blue has anyone played around with pulling these apart to change backlights etc.

Nice Towie, I'm about to have a crack at a DIY version to. What gauges and bezel did you use. they look factory which is the look I'm chasing

In rockhampton updated my profile now. Thanks guys I'll suss out these ideas

Hi Guys, Very intermittently I get the ABS and traction control light coming on. I've looked up and read a few remedies peopel have tried. Clean the ABS wheel sensor, check brake lights etc. mine is very intermittent, only comes on after I start driving come on at either 25km/h or 60km/h ish. I might be on for one trip (or just turn the car on and off again mid trip) then off for a week, or it has also been on for every trip for a week or so then off again for a week then back on for a couple of days. my mates has but his snap on scan tool on it. its error code C1278 which is steering wheel angle sensor... it had a wheel alignment before I picked it up, could it be something to do with that?

Thanks guys Getting used to the extra power already