MrBean

I'm still around Have sold the F6 Ute long ago, after acquiring Permanent Residence, we decided to build a house....you know how that goes...I recently got myself one of the last new XR8 FGX's....fun car, will start some mods on it soon. Currently still stock. PS: Won't you believe it, back then I actually did buy the Skyline IRS rear suspension for the UTE, it's still lying in my garage.... Cheers, Beano

At least with V8's, if we keep rpm's below 7krpm, we should not have to many issues with valve-train. Plus, the bottom end will be pretty comfy at those rpm levels Of course, on any engine, once you go past 7krpm, valvesprings become a big problem - they fatigue like crazy, especially after 7.5k.....so good to keep 7k and below...... @ 01txr: Oops, looking at that rod, seems you made to much torque low down in the rpm scale.... what was your tune like? Either that, or possibly detonation. Of course, having a soft torque-curve at lower rpm's always a good thing, for any engine....

Gotcha, Mate, then we're on the same page I still luv the Ford I6 though, a very balsy engine with the turbo, especially when enhanced with a few goodies.....just a pity about it's reliability at sustained higher rpm operation.....but, then again, we're not all race-drivers.... Good discussion going here, thanx all!

@ Winstor: I should probably make it clear that when I refer to inline 6, in this context I refer to our particular Ford inline 6. It is a shaker. It doesn't have counter-balance shafts, and cannot ref, unless you spent huge amounts on steel (with Malory heavy-metal inserts) crankshaft, 4-bolt caps, et al. And here is the problem -> a huge amount of torque if tuned with 350+rwkw, and a narrow rpm band.....resulting in an unreliable bottom end. It will not sustain high-rpm operation for lengthy periods.....you will most likely shear the crank in half, loose the harmonic balancer, or worse, drop the crank in the sump. For that same money, well, you know the answer. You would probably get a very decent 7k-8k rpm Coyote....with not much more I would venture than better valve-train. But, all conjecture on my side, take it as you wish. As so many guys here have mentioned, we are really fortunate to have the choice between 6 and 8's in Oz.

Tab' date=' we should tell those skinny boys to put some meat on them bones At 107kgs, I am definately not sliding around in the leathers. Ok, I know I sold the UTE, but the G6E has leather..... I know the big Jimmy Roots blowers can take up to 30% to get keep them going at full boost. I wuld reckon you'd still loose 20-25% on the units in use on the Miami. These setups do desperately need an intercooler.....as heatsoak does effect them.

and Well, it is simple, really - the V8, by nature, is a smoother engine, and will rev higher than the inline 6 which is a shaker. The way we drive, the inline 6 should last, but, it will not withstand high rpm, at high torque-levels, for long - it is a shaker, and the bearing caps tend to walk all over the place, and the narrow rpm band (due to resonance frequencies at higher rpm) doesn't do much to alleviate the situation at higher torque levels. Whilst the inline 6 is a quick beast, (mine had around 378rwkw at it's best, I would venture to say that, with twin turbos, the V8, and running around 15 psi boost, would yield a 10L engine, as engine capacity is (approximately) doubled at 1 atmosphere pressure - the inline 6, at 15 psi boost, will only be an 8.0L engine - or, to be more specific, the engines will be developing as much torque as their naturally aspirated cousins of 10.0- and 8.0L respectively. Please take note that I compare apples with apples here, ie turbo vs turbo,and, I would expect that, with a steel bottom end, even though the V8 has not "proven" itself according to a few guys here, it will simply kill the inline 6 in similar configuration. I am a V8 fanboy, but, let me say this to: I had a test drive in the Etheridge Ford Ringwood GT last week, and was very disappointed - and, going by gut-feel, I would reckon it is on par with how my stock F6 UTE performed off the floor, in sotck trim. But, I would also say this - once we start playing with these boys in apples->apples setups, no match. A turbo V8 at the same boost levels will always make more, and reliably so, power than the comparable inline 6. No flaming guys, just my experience on eights vs sixes.

At the risk of totally going off-topic, for me it is a simple decision to have turbos over positive displacement pumps - fuel economy if you want it But, as you rightly mention, space is a problem with the V8..... Soz for off-topic,guys.....

Cannot agree more, Mate. That would have been ideal.

It is just the opposite, Mate. Turbos' are way better at higher RPM (remember, rule of thumb, turbo output pressure quadruples with doubling in speed), and blowers, being positive displacement pumps, are better (immediate) torque deliver off the bat. I would expect a turbo 6, at around 16psi boost, to kill the V8 at around 10psi boost on top-end. Total engine capacities should be the same, but turbo engine will deliver more torque simply due to higher adiabatic efficiency. Or something such. I would expect the V8 engine to be stronger off the line, and, all else equal, should be the quicker car down the 1/4 - while the turbo 6 stronger at top-end. If we consider identical rwkw's, that is. Luv the new V8, and would like to one day slot twin turbos on one -- then no T6 will get close

Heya Spiro, Point well taken Thanx. Yep, you're spot-on, I have quite good experience with Ford small-block V8's, having put together pretty powerful beasts back in the Republic up to the mid-90's - but I'm not that familiar with the Aussie 6. I have no doubt they can rev, but only concern was for the reliability at high-rpm's....but, I am always ready to learn from someone more experienced, and, wrt this particular inline 6, that is from almost everyone! But, appreciate the work that blokes like you and others are putting in so us noobs can put together semi-decent street-performers - my current UTE is making a measley 370rwkw....sad, I know. One of these days I will start a 500rwkw built - no need for more power for my application though, even though I would probably opr for something that would be able to accommodate 1000-1200hp.... Will be in touch, and have a good one in Brisvegas.

Thanx Spiro, appreciated. Experience with V8's tells me that valvesprings tires very quickly at 7,500 rpm, where you can do approximately 400 1/4 mile runs at this speed, and then, once hitting 8k rpm, only about 50 runs at that speed. Don't know the dynamics of a more modern valve-train on the inline 6 though, but, of course, if you have a very customised crank, with Mallory slugs et al, and very well counter-balanced crank, you might have the harmonics sufficiently up in the rpm band to have a trouble-free bottom end at around 7,500rpm mark. But, running "all-day/every day" at these rpm-levels, well, let's say I would like to see that first. Again, proof is in the pudding, and I'm not flaming or anything such, just that it's going to cost an arm and leg to try and get any sort of reliability out of these engines at the levels you're talking. I don't believe it can be achieved with the heavy rods used in the 998 motor, as the heavy rods are just aggrevating the harmonics'problem in an engine already suffering of to small/light counterweights on the crank - maybe using super-expensive Titanium rods will get you there wrt harmonics, but, then again, not reliably so. I would luv to see the trends done on each bearing-cap with vibration-sensors mounted and captured at say, 20-30ms intervals If you don't mind, please share those you have with the 9k rpm engine. Have a good one, and talk later again.

Thanx for clarifying - obviously there are better kits availble for C4's than back in the 90's when I still dragged in the old Republic.....the only "affordable" boxes were either 2-speed Powerglide or Turbo 400. Keep us posted, this is an interesting build

Ouch, I dare say that even if you can provide a custom crank with decent counter-balance weights, and lighter than stock rods to change the amplitude and frequency band of the inherent straight 6's harmonics, you most likely won't have a very reliable valve-train going past the 7k rpm mark on these engines. Good for dyno-runs, but not reliable for consistent high-speed operation. Not to dis Atomic engines, this is an inherent straight-6 characteristic. What's your expereince, guys? Of course the ultimate would be to have a 7,500 rpm (reliable/repeatable)revver, and spread this massive torque induced by 20+psi boost levels to a wider rpm band, preventing the crank hammering the poor maincaps to death - but, I just cannot see this make for a reliable and trouble-free engine?

I will go hunt for my cable and post something up if you don't get sorted Looking forward to your project log! Always handy to have one more as reference.......and good luck!

Yep, that card works, just make the cable - and if I recall correctly, you did not need any software when using that converter. Just search this forum, I think there was a wiring-schematic up in one of these carputer projects.....

Heya Mate, When I had the Mac installed, I had an aftermarket RGB converter, with a cable I did myself. I still have both the cable and the converter, as well as an ArcadeVGA PCI-E card - both were using the standard Ford display. I made the cable myself..... Nowadays I'm running a custom 8.4" transflective though......see few posts back....

Luv the 35-spline rear shafts, and Strange 9" center you're putting together. My first thoughts were this would be an 8-second car, if you can launch real hard, and get the fronts off the ground. Nothing to transfer power like a well-setup ladder-bar rear. You reckon the C4 would take the power? A Powerglide 2-speed would have come in handy, if not for the low RPM-ceiling on the Ford inline 6. Well, there's always the venerable Turbo 400. Good luck with the built, it reminds me of my friend in South Africa, Jannie de Wit, with his Escort with Clevo running high 9's, with a great wheelie-launch. Keep us posted, and looking forward to the results on this.

Thanx Pat, will keep your kind offer in mind. As with most mechanical mods, one can never do everything by oneself. Witin next couple of weeks I will start assembling components, and definately shocks and bushes will be needed. Will be in touch

I have to say, that if I had to choose, my No1 pick must be Stiq Blomqvist's 565HP Ford RS200. That must be the best Group B Homologation Special ever built. Wish I could get my hands on one. At least Target will make good money on clean undies then, as I will scare myself sh*tless every weekend. Good find though, IBoo57

Don't be embarrassed, Dagz......the first thought I had looking at the pics yesterday was that I wouldn't mind owning one - it looks animalistic, beastly, and sort of macho-sexy..... Fark, I would scare myself silly handling with the torque-steer in that thing....and you would most likely whip the back-hide off most XR6T's around a track with lots of corners and bends, with it's power:mass and light weight agility Ok, don't flame me guys, but damn she looks potent.

Hello Guys, After careful deliberation with myself, and some discussions with Simon Gishus over at Nizpro, I decided that I will go ahead with fitting an R33/R34/350Z IRS to my UTE. Most of the work I will do myself. This will be a slow process, as I will need to get my hands on a 2nd hand suspension, and will do all the prep-work to it, like fitting brakes, cleaning/powder-coating, overhauling the diff, correct crownwheel/pinion/fitment of new bushes/et al before stripping my UTE to built the cradle. I also need to source the correct Ohlin rear shocks, and make the 1:5 rocker arms for the shocks. I will start a new thread within next few weeks, and will post a detailed log of my progress, should anyone be silly enough to attempt this Br, Beanie

1) Check in our main fusebox under the hood, in front of the water-reservoir, if the main fuses to starter motor and the relay itself is in working order. 2) If items in 1 is good, secondly g buy a cheap digital voltmeter, Dick Smith's or such a place, and measure voltage with ignition off. Should be over 12.5V or thereabouts. If this is the case, turn the ignition to on. Should not really drop to lower than this. 3) If the voltage in item 2 is ok, I suspect starter-motor/cabling loose/faulty et al. Post back what you observe in the points mentioned above.

Hehe You guys kill me. Reason I want to use the GTR IRS is for reliability with 450-500rwkw. Ford IRS = nogo. Plus, my UTE only has 10k on the clock - virtually brandnew, and I have a G6E sedan, so not another car - luv the UTE....except the live axle of course.... Thanx for your input though! Soz Dags, I'm a Ford boy - luv the Expensive Daewoo though, but not enough to trade my Ford for.....

Yep, because you run it significantly richer than PULP, as you have indicated - but this all make for a significant higher consumption, so: 1.More time spent at the bowser 2.Approxiately same cost per km 3.excluding the fact that you need larger injectors, fuel-pump, if using the same fuel-pressure Ideal would be to have a 85-95 liter tank installed, to run the same distance between fill-ups. Then, only remaining issue is to deal with the hydroscopic nature of the beast - the only deterrent for me at this point.