KTASTRPHE

Cool. I might give it a shot. Have a look at a few cars and see what I can get them for, and then see what the broker can do for me. Thanks guys,.

Hey Guys, Im in the market for a new (used) car soon and Ive been reading about car brokers on the internet. Basically they do all the talking with the dealers etc, organising the best deal for your trade in and getting the best price on the car you want. Of course all the testimonials say they are fantastic, but has anyone ever had dealings with them in real life? cheers Kurt

What did they say about the diff whine? Is it coming with any sort of reliable warranty? If you are keen on it I would be getting a mechanic to do a report on it, and then tell the sales man what you want fixed first if you buy it.

probably confused kw with hp - that's around 250rwkw if he has.

Man - that's where I proposed to the missus! We spent three nights at Abbey beach and the restaurant is where I popped the question

Saw XXXR6T down in Margs at the chocolate factory!

Hey Steve - congratulations. I was about to post in the "WA spottend" thread - you parked next to my missus's car at the chocolate factory the other day. Ive never met you in person before - are you a fairly tall guy? I remember a couple walking in as we were leaving. I popped the question to my girlfriend on the 30th June in Busselton. Spent a few night there, then moved onto margs for a couple nights. Got the waiter to bring out a fancy dessert with "will you marry me" written on it in chocolate sauce. When she looked at me with a suprised look on her face I was down on my knee.

Ebay usually has them - with either an XR6 or turbo or various badge on them.

Well guys Ive installed the throttle body that I bought off that bloke on page one and it made fark all difference. I left my car with my performance mechanic for a week and he drove it non stop to find the problem... and guess what, it ran perfectly for him, but within an hour of picking it up it started stalling on me again. His suggestion is a faulty unichip, but I dont think that is the go seeing as people with edit and even stock cars see the same thing. I might see if I can get them to check the timing positioning sensor. Any idea what that is worth? Ive basically grown accustomed to coming to a stop with my foot on the brake while giving it a bit of accelerator. pretty unsafe ford!

I got some computer illiterate work mates with the good ol' print screen, then set as desktop and hide icons and taskbar... was pretty bloody funny watching them try and figure out what was going on...

throttle body is pretty easy to get off - just undo the hose clamps to remove any connected pipework. Use an allen key to remove the four bolts holding the throt body in place and undo the two electrical connectors either side. Give it a good clean with carby cleaner or similar. I had the TPS and throttle body replaced on mine about 9 months ago.. surely it hasnt failed already?

TPS's are only $30-$40 arent they. I guess it cant hurt to chuck a new one in and see how it goes.

Hi. Sorry, should have mentioned that I bought the car with the unichip etc already installed, so its written down as being there. I have already asked what happens if I go to an edit (as in saying I wont be getting any extra power, just a better tune) and they said Ill lose all drive-line warranty. Do the T's have an idle solenoid - I thought it was controlled electronically?

cheers guys. I did take the throttle body off to give it a clean. The tuner suggested bumping the idle up because he said the injectors are on the minimum duty cycle at the moment... so if the car is idling slightly above where it should be the computer completely cuts the fuel to the injectors and the car either stalls or gets really close... may not be just a band-aid, it saves me from goin to an Edit, which will completely lose my warrantly. Did run a bit better after I did that, cleaned the spark plugs and checked all the hose clamps etc. Hey Dan - any difference between the NA and Turbo throttle bodies? or do you mean I can take the screw out of it and put into mine?

Hi Guys, Im pulling my hair out trying to get my car idling properly - took everything apart and checked the plugs etc. When ever the car returns to idle it drops to 200rpm, then back up to 700... and sometimes even stalls. Ford tell me its tuning, my tuner tells me the unichip cant alter closed loop - so no help there. Anyway... to cut a long story short, I thought I would have a play with the throttle body to see if I could at least raise the idle. There is a little hex head bolt on the top. I couldnt budge it with a spanner, so I got the multigrips out. as it started turning the little gold thing on top popped out and I cant find where it went. Anyone know what this bolt and little gold thing do? Heres a pic. cheers

I was looking forward to actually getting up with the sun this summer (now gone), but instead had to get up in the dark again. Day light savings sucks for shift workers!

Hey Guys, I have an APS phase II kit, and having problem with my idle. Both ford and my unichip tuner tell me it is because the injectors are bigger than stock and the unichip wont tune in close loop. The injectors are running on the minimum duty cycle at those revs, so occasionally wants to cut fuel all together and stall the car. What Im getting at is.... is there anyway to adjust the base idle without getting an edit? cheers

Cool.. I might have a look and see if anything out of the ordinary is jammed in there. Thanks

Hey Guys, Ive done a search to no avail - just find lots of threads on the handbrake... lol. In the last two weeks my car (BA series 1 with standard brakes, apart from slotted rotors) has developed a ticking noise whenever the brakes are applied about mid-strength when travelling between 5-20kmph. If I full apply the brakes it doesnt do it. Any idea of what it could be? It sounds more like a ticking or clicking sound than the scrape of worn pads or rotors. cheers

Until I got an aftermarket head unit I ran the remote wire off the cigarette lighter wiring. Although it does mean the amp is on the whole time the car is on, even when the stereo is off.

You dont pull the handbrake up, you switch the switch so the dvd player thinks that the car has the handbrake on. The reason I have a switch is due to the fact it is illegal to drive with the screen on. I dont watch it when driving, but passengers do - but to be on the safe side if ever pulled over by the blues, I can switch the switch and show it cuts out when the brake is put on. It does disable cruise control though, which is gay.

earth the handbrake wire when driving. I have a hidden switch to turn this on and off - the only thing is you get the annoying "ding - ding" for a couple seconds whenever you slow down to a stop and take off again. Other than that it works.

I bought a convertor that plugs into the factory looms. Run a JVC DVD deck and it plays movies through the factory screen. Very happy with it. I posted contact details for the bloke that made it in another thread. His name is guiseppe, but that's all I can remember. Best to do a search because Im too lazy too.

You guys do know that this thread was last posted in on Feb 2005, until it was revived today? Im sure the bloke asking has been through a few sets of tyres since then.