muncher
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Bay of Plenty, NZ
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Thanks for the replies. I have noticed it takes longer to engage after a long journey. But it seems that others are doing the same so must be the norm? May get the oil level checked, a low level could result in this. Cheers......................... muncher
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Hi All I have a 2004 BA Auto T. I have noticed that when I select reverse it takes a while to get in gear. For example I was on a hill recently, I selected R took the handbrake off and the car rolled forward before engaging. Is this normal? Going to take it to the stealers but wanted your opinions first. Cheers ...........muncher.
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I would be very suprised and disapointed if a well maintained 4ltr straight 6 Falcon could not reach 100,000K's and beyond with no probs. Coming from UK I am used to miles not K's and 100.000K's equates to approx 62.500miles. Now the average milage over there is approx 12.000miles a year. So that means after around 5 yrs you would expect to rebuild your motor etc. I don't think so. With regular oil changes and serviceing I am expecting my T to do well over 100.000K's before I even need to think about rebuilds. Or have I bought a porcelain car?..........................muncher
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Hi All. I was woundering if anyone uses additives in their fuel or engine oil, or anywhere else for that matter. Thought about using an engine additive to help prolong its life. You know the ones, friction reducers etc. How about the fuel system? Anyone? muncher
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Matt, thanks for the reply. Yes mine is a closer colour match to the top of the dash also. So question answered. Cheers ..............muncher
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Hi All. Just a quick question I hope you can answer for me. For all of you that has the analogue clock on top of the dash. Does the plastic triangular panel that incorporates the clock match the colour of your centre console or dash? Or is it a slightly different colour to both? I had my clock replaced because it stopped working, now when I look at it I notice it is a different colour to everything else. I can't remember if it was like that before. Thanks........................muncher
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Hi All Heard a nice sounding scoobie on the road the other day. Made a nice whistle sound on the gear change. Don't know much about how these work, do they add performance or are they just for the effect? and are they easy for a diy fit? Cheers .........muncher
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Hi All Here's a couple of pix for you. Looks better in the flesh though. Only takes about 1 hr to get a decent result. Gives you more time to get out and enjoy......................muncher
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pix to follow as soon as I can remember how to post them.
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Just finished polishing in the blazing sun on hot black paintwork. And it was a breeze. I used the new Turtle wax product ICE, it did exactly what it said on the bottle. It's a little more expensive than most polishes but it is claimed you use less polish therefor it lasts longer. The thing I like about ICE is that there are no streaks or white powdery residue left behind , especially in stone chips. It also doesn't matter if you get it on your trim, it polishes that too. I did notice however that it was a little easier to remove the polish if the surface wasn't too hot to touch. Has anyone else used ICE and what do you think? If you haven't tried it then give it a go, I think you will like it. Now I'm off for a cruise, catch you latter............................muncher
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As I said previously and savaged explained well. Pick an oil that suits your climate and engine mileage. If you are in a consistantly colder climate you want that oil to get around the engine as quick as pos. Therefor go for a low visc initial rating such as 0w or 5w. To be honest I think a 10w 40w would be fine where ever you are. All good brand synth oils are high quality and if you change regularly enough you'll do fine with most types...................muncher
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Hi All Funny this topic should come up now. I have just had a 30.000k oil change done on my XR6 T. Went through the hundreds, well it seemed that way LOL, of different grade oils to choose from. I think the type of oil you choose should also depend on the area you live by that I mean if it is a consistantly cold area or warm. If cold then you will need a thinner oil to get around an even colder engine and a warmer area will need an oil that will keep a thicker viscosity at higher temps. Also the mileage has a factor the higher mileage ones need a thicker oil. Could go on but I am sure you have had enough of my ramblings. I used 10w 40w Valvoline high rev race oil..................muncher
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Mate that sucks. Look they will get what they deserve, takes time but it WILL happen!! Call it Karma fate or what ever, it will happen. As for the solution, you need a full respray to fully repair it. As a temp you could get a small pot of the paint colour and with a fine detailers brush build up the layers in the defect until it matches the orig paint work. Takes time and a steady hand but looks good when done right. I did it to a motor I owned a few yrs back, looked great until I could afford a proper job on it. Now how you feel mate.................muncher
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Bain good tip and that is one hell of a shiney white motor. ...muncher
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Only noticed it the other day when I was closing the boot. All seems normal so thanks for that. Citric, as for the hard on, I thought mine was a she??? LOL......muncher