El Andrew

Thanks for that - makes sense. I can understand from that how it is possible to overboost.I'm assuming then that this is in a sudden, uncontrolled boost spike scenario (e.g. sudden throttle close), where as under a steadier load, if the wastegate can't bleed boost quickly enough and boost builds beyond what the ECU,s factory tune is happy with, the ECU shuts everything down. I guess the question is whether or not doing the cat alone would cause enough of a boost increase to push the car into this zone. My experience with a 100 cell on an otherwise stock BA XR6T is no. The advice I got before fitting was that this wouldn't happen with a standard dump. Notwithstanding that my boost gauge is probably not super accurate, before the cat change I would max at 7psi (I doubt it is actually that high). After replacing the cat, I get to 7psi more easily but still peaks at that pressure. I haven't ever triggered the overboost cut-out in the ECU. Every car and cat is different though and everyone has to be comfortable with what they are doing to their own car. A tune would definitely be best to make the most of the cat and I''m planning to do exactly that, with some mild mods, in the future once a couple of other priorities are out of the way!

I'm probably forgetting something stupid, but I'm very interested to learn how this works,this being my first turbo car. I can understand that reduced back flow = easier/faster turbo spool up = increased boost pressure = increased air quantity which has the potential to impact on AFR. I'm assuming that within the factory boost range, the car detects the incoming air and can adjust fuel appropriately to give correct AFR. So on part throttle, boost should come on easier at a given engine load and the car will adjust accordingly on factory tune. Under harder throttle I guess is where the potential is to make higher than factory boost. What I don't understand is wouldn't the waste gate just bleed off the excess? This doesn't cover a boost spike on sudden throttle close of course. Is that the only scenario where the risk exists?

Definitely worth pursuing - your issue seems consistent with both the warranty and what you should reasonably expect from the product. SCA were great last week giving me store credit when I had received two identical work lights from different people as Christmas gifts. Let me return one with no receipt, so suggestion to find someone reasonable at another store is a good one. Could an auto sparkle give you an opinion on the battery condition before you visit the store again? Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

If they are difficult about warranty, is it worth looking at Australian Consumer Law? Regardless of what the warranty says, a product should be be reasonably durable and undertake the task that can be reasonably expected of it. Even mentioning you will talk to your local fair trading office can get results with a retailer. Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

Thanks, that's a useful list. Over time I've replaced every single bush, and shocks, in the rear of my EL XR6 myself. Piece of cake in comparison - don't feel like dropping diff cradle in my driveway, so makes sense to save future labour costs now.

Hi everyone. My BA xr6t with approx 140k km developed a rear end clunk during a recent Canberra - Mt Gambier - Adelaide - nsw south coast - Canberra family road trip. Loud clunk on take off or sudden acceleration. Got it checked out a couple of times during trip as was worried it was a uni joint and didn't want a failure in the middle of nowhere. Diagnosis on both occasions was outer bushes on upper control arm in rear end. My question is, what else is worth replacing while the diff cradle is dropped? Obviously the main cost in the job is the labour to drop the cradle. I don't want to replace stuff that is unlikely to ever need it, but common issues I may as well address now. When I bought the car last march, it needed the centre diff bush replaced as it was split. Knowing what I do now, I would have had the front bushes done at the same time, so they would be good candidates on this occasion.

I did all the rad hoses recently too - replaced all the hose clamps with worm drive jobs you can open with screwdriver. "Quick release" ones were a pain to get a tool onto in some locations - would hate to have to do that on the side of the road. 800km in 40 degree heat today probably confirms I fitted it all properly...

Full set of new plugs and coils sorted my backfire at similar rpm (missed spark allowing unburned fuel into exhaust, then kaboom). Could be other things too though. Agree that if one coil is stuffed the others are likely similar age. If you pull everything off to change one, might as well do the lot. How many km on existing coils? If they're old and have had a good life, not really wasting money to replace whole set. Mechanic put cheapies in mine and problems continued. Quality coils is important. I replaced myself with good stuff and problem solved.

Good stuff, thanks guys

Anyone got any particular recommendations for sealing threads? I've got a Speco oil filter sandwich plate installed in the BA xr6t. The plate has an oil temp sensor and then a few plugs to fill the remaining 1/8 npt ports. The plugs are all leaking slowly. Plugs were pre-installed and look like they had a little sealant on them. Any preferences for particular thread sealants or tapes? Personally I'm not that keen on the tape idea, especially on these tiny things but happy to be persuaded otherwise. Interesting that the plugs leak but the sensor doesn't - might be that some good quality plugs in that size will help. Cheers

Narva 50+ pair around $40 on ebay. For the 18m life this seems reasonable for the extra light I get in the EL. Nice and white too. I'm actually not sure what's in the BA as they haven't blown in the time I've had it. If you change globes make sure you get a tune☺

From memory Narva and Osram are the same. I've used a few sets of Narva 50+ in the EL and I think the Narva packs sometimes contained Osram branded globes. Get about 18 months on average I think. Reflectors in EL XR headlights are tiny, and these made a big difference.

Walking through car park past a VE with 20" wheels and chev badges. My 2 yr old says "that's like our car daddy". Made him walk home.

Brilliant, thanks!

Made a start on replacing rad hoses and power steering high pressure line. Good jobs to combine as can put it all back together in order that gives best access. But does anyone know how to separate the bloody rubber block on the cross member that the power steering hose sits in? Can't see any threads with anyone else struggling with that, so I'm assuming stupidity on my part.

That made be start laughing at my desk. Had to cough heavily to disguise it.

BlakxrT - a week in and mine seems fine. No over boost issues when flat chat. Other than the cat, everything else is stock... Except for the Fairlane interior door handles. Anyone know if I need a tune for those?

Coils are coils ☺

Did mine for the first time a couple months back. Thought I'd just duck outside for 20 minutes to do the plugs and coils. Crossover off first. Then dropped the last plug cover bolt and it landed in the fan shroud (magnet tool would have been handy at that point). Took undertray off bumper to fish out bolt and thought while it's off should replace the blown fog globe. Took a bit longer than 20 mins, and was 2 degrees outside!

What sucks is when you pull the extension bar out and the socket stays on the plug...

Not flat chat, but enough for the boost gauge to hit its usual high water mark

So far so good with 100 cell. I'll let you know after a week once I've treated it nicely for a few hundred km and then found a dry road.

Might be your lucky day - I'm picking my stock BA up in about an hour - new turbo core and a high flow cat being fitted. I'll let you know... Mind you it just started to rain so WOT testing might be difficult.

What does it do at higher rpm? You wouldn't normally have boost at idle. Is it leaking air at idle?