El Andrew

Have you got any other details? Have you got electrical power to dash, locks, etc? All fuses ok? Sometimes the most catastrophic symptoms turn out to be something easy!

Not even close to stock! I've found the earl's kit combined with fitting Fairmont chrome interior door handles has given me at least 4 tenths at the strip

I think in the end I'm going to go for the t-piece. Not super keen on the Christmas tree effect if I add an oil pressure sender later but can't find anything particularly decent for a sandwich plate, despite liking the idea of them. Am I correct in thinking the factory oil pressure switch is 1/4 npt? If so, I'll get an 1/4 npt male to female, with a 1/8 npt female half way along for the temp sender.

Good excuse for a Coonawarra run

I reckon then your best bet might be to grab a cheap n/a BA and drive that. Sourcing n/a bits and getting the car functional would be at least as expensive and a major pain. That way any upgrades you do spend on in terms of wheels, audio, etc can be transferred to the T later too.

The rolling road has speed humps?

Haha mine does! One of the few times its better to be a bald pr!ck like me! Wife won't let me crack out the no. 1 clippers on the kids though.

Good suggestions. Battery impact wrench is definitely taking my fancy. Would be pretty cool with the wrench and the jack if you helped someone stuck on the side of the road with a flat and had them going again F1 pit stop style. ☺️

Yeah I agree re quality being a concern. I'm pretty set for the basics for major service stuff. The old man has the supercheap compressor kit and reckons it's pretty good. Although if I mainly want an impact wrench maybe I'm better off going electric. For a jack I'd probably end up going to Sydney tools or something.

If you $200 or so to spend on tool/device for car or around the house, and you already had the basics, what would you get? Have voucher to spend at Repco, but buy enough oil, etc that I can easily transition it to funds anywhere. Early leader is one of those air compressor and air tool combo kits that supercheap have on special sometimes for tyre inflation, impact wrench, small Painting jobs, etc. Or maybe a new jack.

Pretty much all threads could be closed by saying "take it to an expert"! ☺️ I'm assuming he's asking the question on a forum cos he wants to try some things himself first or at least have some background knowledge before going somewhere. When my BA was misbehaving on boost last year it turned out to be coil packs. The basic things I would check if it was my car (without knowing the specifics of your car/symptoms) would be: Coils Plugs Earthing/battery terminals Fuel filter Manifold bolts Clean boost solenoid That's a pretty generic list, but good things to eliminate first. At that point I'd be past my knowledge and would be looking at taking it somewhere or getting more suggestions here. ☺️

I've tried to solve a clunk in the EL for the past 12 years. Over that time shocks and all bushes replaced. Totally different rear end to FG of course, but most places I've been to laugh and advise me that being clunk-free and owning Falcons are inconsistent life objectives ☺️

Sensors are NPT

Thanks for that. Has anyone else tried a sandwich plate and had luck with a particular brand? I'm thinking it will be a bit neater especial I'll eventually want two senders and would rather not have a Christmas tree of t-pieces. I'm thinking the quality of the sandwich plate I used was junk.

For those of you who have added oil temp or pressure gauges, where have you installed the senders? I've added an oil temp gauge with a Specco sandwich plate that has 1/8 npt ports. Trouble is the thing won't stop leaking. I (and the mechanic) have tried tape, thread sealant and stag paste. Best result to date has been the stag paste I used, letting it cure off the car for a couple of days. I know have one spare plug leaking a little, but is still enough to put a drop of oil on the ground each night and gradually make a mess underneath. Welding a bung into the sump doesn't seem to be the go as I would like to add an oil pressure at some stage. At this point I'm thinking maybe a better quality (hopefully) non-thermostatic sandwich plate like this Earl's one: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/170636507085 Would obviously need some adaptors for 1/4. The piece off the oil switch is another option, but again if I'm eventually adding two senders and there's already the turbo oil feed branching off there it is getting a bit messy. What have the rest of you used in the past?

If it's any consolation, once mine was done it was heaps better to drive. You dont quite realise how sick it is until you get a new one. Lots of whooshy-whoosh makes up for the dent in the hip pocket! ☺️

I had new core installed last year, plus new cat, for $2800. From memory cat was about $450 of that. Canberra is pricey though.

#harrlp

I like them slimmer than standard fit but too slim and it just gets uncomfortable to wear all day. Unfortunately at my work no tie or jacket pretty much means it's casual day and you should be coughing up a gold coin donation.

Maybe I'm an undertaker [emoji3]

Speaking of office attire, I just bought a couple of those Charles Tyrwhitt shirts online - good size and cuff options and good price being offered ($40ea). Before I stock up like crazy, has anyone tried these and had experience with how well they last? I was doing the Gazman 3 for $150 but EVERY SINGLE ONE eventually splits the seam across the shoulder blades.

What's wrong with forum advice? It's pretty clear from his description that he needs new diff bushes and his turbo is too noisy.

Good stuff - what you have done is exactly what I thought from what I've read, but never quite saw any first hand advice of doing it. I reckon I might buy some 2nd hand calipers to swap the brackets over (next time I need new rotors) or buy now and recondition with seals, paint etc so they are ready to go. My understanding is that there is no difference to the caliper itself and so running what you currently are (bigger rotors, FG brackets, BA calipers) is perfect. But I haven't done it, so someone else might know more. It is hard to think what else it might be causing the problem if its definitely not a leak or air. Obviously not booster as you are fine with the BA calipers. Maybe the pistons in the FG calipers aren't moving properly?

Did your BA have standard 298mm discs? And was the upgrade to 322mm (FG XR6T or XR8) and your transferred discs and calipers to the BA? I've been looking into something similar for my BA and I believe the following is true (for standard only, not premium options): All BAs had 298mm discs regardless of model Non-XR6T/Xr8 BF and FG also had 298mm discs XR6T and Xr8 BF and FG (and all Territory too I think) had 322mm discs. Caliper and pads identical between 298mm and 322mm discs (except for L/R swap for FG) BUT 322 caliper have different support brackets so that the caliper clears the disc. So matching support brackets with discs is the key compatibility issue. By brackets I mean: http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=272199111084&alt=web So if you swapped whole caliper (including brackets) and discs over you should be fine for fitment. I thought about getting the Ebay brackets so I can get the bigger discs next time, but am a bit apprehensive about bolting my brakes together with some brackets where I don't know the quality. Someone with more knowledge might be able to confirm what I've said. But if you fitment is ok and definitely no air in system, are your pads and rotors clean and not contaminated with grease or dirt from install?

Just serviced two noisy and rough sliding doors that we've put up with for the past year since we bought the place. The little things make a big difference e sometimes!