El Andrew

Haha I love the homeopathic accident and emergency skit by Mitchell and Webb Guy gets hit by a car so they administer a few drops of Ford Mondeo solution on his tongue

Did lol In a similar fashion, the BA went in today to a different place after my $3k quote to replace all rear suspension parts debacle. Outcome was the centre tailshaft bearing. The ONE thing that wasnt in my massive quote. Not over until the fat lady sings without clunking though - pick it up tomorrow so hopefully all good. OP not sure what your background is, but I personally find suspension stuff the hardest to diagnose at home. There's lots of stuff it could be, but accurately diagnosing is hard. I'd take it around for a couple of opinions and then pick the place that seems the most knowledgeable and reasonable. Especially as front end stuff has safety implications.

Fixed your typo

Chucked in new front sway bar mount bushes and links last night. Looking forward to the road test on the way to work. But just remembered I have a very full container of soup I need to take without spilling...

Yeah I pulled all that back. Unfortunately the carpet is dry, but the lining underneath (separated from carpet by a waterproof layer) is saturated. I'm leaning towards getting someone to dry it with some big heaters and peeling back the carpet. Anyone know of if this is a problem? Took out plastic trim behind wipers and everything was very clear and clean. This seal could be the cause?

Haha had to read that twice - "beforehand" vs "before hand" makes a big difference to that sentence!

My mistake. From a previous thread I thought Eric was running 322mm discs with FG caliper. What I meant then was that all 298mm rotors (all BA, non-xr6t/xr8 BF and FG) plus 322mm rotors (standard Territory, standard xr6t/xr8 BF and FG) use the same pad (DB1473 etc) But yeah wouldn't work if he had an upgrade option caliper.

Back to the drawing board - windscreen place said the screen is definitely fine and is the factory screen. Good news then for any rust issues there. Guy reckoned he often sees them get blocked up in front of the screen, and to remove the plastic panel around the wipers and have a good look clean out. I'll try that of the weekend. He thought all the door seals and stuff were fine too so if the above doesn't work, might be time to get the hose out.

Eric, weren't you using the PBR 322mm fronts? If so I'm pretty sure they take standard BA pads? The PBR 325mm rotors use different size pads, which might be the ones referred to on the Project Mu site. If that's the case, eBay has plenty of listing's for the standard size pads. Apologies if I'm totally confused!

Thanks for that - will do! Booked in tomorrow.

Thanks everyone. This is a metric sh!t ton of water, so I'm guessing something topside rather than wheel well, as the car has been stationery but in heavy rain. Good call I think Ralph - while the weather strip looks good, the windscreen seal is very wet underneath about half way down on drivers side. Not sure on windscreen history, but screen isn't branded like the rest of the glass so I'm guessing it has been replaced. Next step will be to swing past a windscreen place for a look.

Hi everyone Anyone had this problem with a B series? Car was parked outside in heavy rain yesterday afternoon and last night and there was a massive lake in the rear driver's side footwell this morning. Car was parked on a slope, nose high, and tracing the water back it seems to be originating near the front edge of the front drivers door. Had the same problem about a year ago but to a lesser extent and it never recurred, so I assumed the door wasn't closed properly. Seals look ok and confirmed windows were up properly. Maybe a blocked duct or something in front of the windscreen? Any help appreciated! Fortunately I've got secure parking at work, so car is in basement with doors open until I can a hair dryer on it tonight. Pic is of where water starts in drivers footwell

Capital Suspension and Steering in Canberra. When I queried the labour, they said the cradle remove and reinstall was 8 hours alone, and shock installs required a helper! Plus they were mega rude to another customer who came to collect his car at agreed time, but it wasn't ready. Basically yelled at him and said it wasn't their fault and they couldn't control what happened in the workshop. True, but you could give the guy a call...

Primary purpose is to reduce roll, so should be a good, cheap starting point for what you are trying to achieve.

What's usual labour time for drop and reinstall rear cradle? Just got quoted 8 hours! At $140 per hour. Were quoting on rear clunk (but diff bushes already done previously). Came out with a quote for all 4 shocks and every rear end bush. Which one is causing the clunk? Ahhhhmate it would be a combination of all of them. That labour is just for the cradle in and out - was more hours for installing all the new stuff. For some reason "Ralph reckons he can do two in a morning" was lost on them.

I did this too. And nice and easy to run signal wire across the firewall and into the cabin from there.

Lol was thinking the same!

Yeesh! Each to their own, but if I had $4k in the car budget, it wouldn't involve vinyl wrap!

You could keep the spare at a different size if it's only for occasional, get you home sort of use.

For that profile change at that rim size and tread width, the outside diameter change would be about 7%. So assuming at indicated road speed of 100 your real road speed is 98 (assuming usual factory speedo variance) new road speed will be approx 105.

I find nitrogen holds pressure better while I'm in at Harvey Norman buying a $400 shielded HDMI cables for better picture quality.

I'm sure I head someone say here or elsewhere recently that sway bar bushes (link and mount) are one of the most noticeable suspension upgrades you can make to a B series or FG. And cheap as heck! I just did the front of my EL on the weekend (225k factory rubber sway bar bushes anyone?) and I'm stunned at the difference it has made. And because I'd already done the rear, balancing up the stiffness front and rear made a massive improvement to the rear too. Tempted to do the BA now too.

You were both pretty on the mark price-wise. $190 to repair motherboard, which has included picking up and delivering back, plus is running tests overnight to make sure it's not overheating and is still running CPU at full power.

That's pretty much what the insurance company said to me

Thanks good to know. Boots up fine on battery so I think MB is fine. I reckon repair is worth a shot at that sort of price as it's a decent machine. If it was a $500 job I'd probably just cut my losses.