El Andrew

When I got my BA it tramlined and followed bumps like crazy. In the wet it felt downright dangerous. Bought new tyres and it is perfect now. I went from Dunlop Sport SP3000 (I think) to Goodyear Eagle F1 (the cheaper version). +1 for quality tyres and correct pressures for both performance and safety. Even beyond your current issue, there's no point putting a bunch of decent suspension gear in and running crap tyres.

Swapping the front sensor isn't a huge job - but need the heat shroud off. Maybe see if someone will swap sensors with you tomorrow morning for a back to back comparison? [emoji5]

That must mean the second one is only about cat effectiveness and not about monitoring AFRs. So if o2 sensor is the cause here, its only the pre-cat one that is in play.

That must mean the second one is only about cat effectiveness and not about monitoring AFRs. So if o2 sensor is the cause here, its only the pre-cat one that is in play.

To explain o2 sensor cause (if that what it is) they sit in your exhaust and measure the o2 levels to make sure that the AFR going into combustion chamber are correct. Ie if the car measures x going into the engine, the o2 measures y on the way out to make sure they correlate. When the sensors get bad (which just happens over time) they may give a false lean reading and tell the car to add fuel, hence the increased consumption. Someone with more knowledge might be able to confirm this, but I'm pretty sure this adjustment shows up in the long term fuel trim. If you check this and it isn't close to zero you might have an o2 sensor issue. Only about $100 and easy to fit. I also reckon its the front one that could be the issue, which is what compares what went in to the engine with what came out. I think the rear o2 sensor is more about whether the cat is working properly. I've got a BA which doesn't have a post-cat sensor so don't quote me on that.

is good news?

B series are great looking cars, but from some angles they are bluddy bewdiful

I've used RBS a couple of times too - good advice, good prices and ship quickly. The local brake place in ACT wanted to charge freight to get BA HPX pads in, even though they stock QFM! Like just include them in your next order FFS.

Haha yeah exactly!

Sold the EL this morning. Always knew the day would come when I bought the BA XR6T, as eventually we would want something more modern and practical for the family and the EL would go. Guy who bought it was a bit of a Ford enthusiast and was looking for an old XR6 as a project. Happy it went to a good home, but still pretty sad to see the old girl go after 13 years in my hands.

This one turned out fine - I rang Toyota today and they confirmed fuel filter was definitely done at 80k and is shown on their service and invoice records. I asked out of interest ready for next time. The 80k service (160k is the same once I get there) is $1k, but in addition to the fuel filter that price includes oil, oil filter, brake fluid flush, air filter, and changing the diff and transfer case oils. Fuel filter on its own is about $500 - $170 for the part plus a couple hours of labour. So nothing to worry too much about. I imagine it depends on the individual dealer too.

Toyota owners forum wants to know if I want to meet up with like-minded Jaguar owners...

About $290. Includes things like checking paint thickness etc for evidence of previous repairs. I think Dyno tune do it for about $160 but seller would need to take car to them.

I just used stateroads.com.au to inspect the Kluger (in Canberra). Were cheaper than NRMA, great report and photos and called immediately afterwards to discuss what they found. Are mobile and able to do next day. He even grilled the owner about a bunch of stuff and of course wouldn't disclose what he found to the owner.

Do you mean for for pre-registration or transfer inspection? Or do you mean for a general service?

I always get a full inspection done too. Seems like money down the drain, but the good ones are amazingly thorough and can check things well beyond my expertise. Some of you guys wouldn't need to do this obviously, but for me it has prevented a couple of costly mistakes over the years.

The book just lists what has to be done (filter is at 80k service) and Toyota have signed off that service as being fulfilled. Next filter due at 160k. Full Toyota service history and one owner who was pretty meticulous. The extras he had done on the car were all top shelf so I doubt he skimped on the service. I agree moving on when major service intervals get close makes sense if you are going to upgrade anyway, but it's hardly a reason to sell a car or avoid it second hand if a range of other factors are good. That's akin to selling it because it needs tyres and is nearly out of fuel. Plus I'm sure shopping around would result in a much better price for that than what Toyota do. Different car, but a mate got quoted nearly $800 by Mazda for the in-tank filter in his 6. Place next door did it for $300.

Picked up a 2010 Kluger with just on 100k. AWD, 7 seater, Altitude model (19s, moon roof, roof mounted DVD). Am thoroughly impressed with how it drives and the build quality. If someone told me it was 2 months I'd believe them. Good news is wife is happy and XR6T goes back to being my daily. Bad news is that it's probably time to put the EL XR6 up for sale. The kids think it's frigging Christmas. 6 year old couldn't sleep last night because he was thinking about the new car.

I just fitted new sway bar links and mount bushes, King springs and KYB shocks to both ends of my BA. I'm really happy with how it drives and that's only entry level upgrades of course (I have a steep driveway and lots of speed bumps in my work car park!) Suspension upgrades are something you can easily enjoy every day.

EL got new coil and distributor last week after its crank but no start issue. This morning I turned the ignition on without cranking (as usual, to let the fuel pump prime) and there was a huge electrical thunk from under the bonnet, enough to make the car rock gently! Car only just stumbled to life after extended cranking.Drove straight to the mechanic (didn't fancy organising a tow from work's multi level basement car park this afternoon). When I switched off at the mechanic, there was a big wind down noise like a jet engine being switched off. Clunk on ignition is repeatable. I'm thinking the new distributor is no good. Hopefully, because that's a warranty job!

That didn't end well... Looks to be coil or distributor so shouldn't be too bad.

EL replacement decision just picked up some pace. Wife drove it to Sydney yesterday and back home today. An hour later I went to use it and won't start. Cranks but won't fire. Pretty lucky it didn't happen to her while away. Time to check fuses and battery and then spark at a plug lead so I can narrowed own whether it seems to be fuel or electrical related. She was having central locking issues with it last night too so I'm guessing it might be something in the smartlock cutting spark or fuel. From memory when the security system thinks there's a problem it allows crank but no start which is exactly what's happening. Looks like 35 degrees and push bike for me tomorrow!

Thanks for that. Seems to be ticking our boxes on a size/space reliability, value, equipment, etc basis. We do quite a bit of country kms each year such as Canberra to Adelaide or Mt Gambier, so being able to overtake and get the job done quickly is important too. Kluger ticks that box much better than some if the other family junk getting around. I measured the 3 year old today and he is already 113cm. So something like a Forester is going to be too small pretty quickly!

Haha yeah the EL has one airbag and ABS so what more do you want!

Interesting. I've been turning over in my mind buying a Kluger sometime this year as the main family car. BA stays as my baby and EL goes. Id love to keep it (had it nearly 13 years now) but just don't have the time, space or headspace to have two pet cars. Washed the EL tonight and the thought of having to part with it legit almost brought me to tears! Bloody cars...