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Posts
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Everything posted by El Andrew
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I'm worried about the Y2K bug - does anyone know what impact this will have on household appliances, aircraft, power generation, etc?
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I think what Rollex is saying is that the sensor itself is the same across many brands. The gauge is inside the car and is the bit unique to Innovate, Aem, etc. The sensor is in the exhaust. This component is common to many gauge brands and in your case is the bit that failed hence not Innovate-specific.
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Good work! I got quoted $1300 for 4x Monroe shocks installed. I paid $850ish and got 4x KYB shocks, 4x king springs, front shock mount bushes and rear sway bar links and D bushes including getting a shop to assemble front struts. DIY for the win, plus some advice from here on the day to keep me moving.
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Good stuff. Yeah I'm still reading as much as I can before taking the plunge with buying tuning software. I figured whether I tune myself or get it tuned then the wideband will be useful to know the thing isn't a hand grenade.
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Thanks for the feedback - that sucks that it didn't last. From what I read it looks like a bunch of brands (Innovate, AEM, Auto Meter) all use the same/similar Bosch sensor so you'd think in most cases they would be fine.
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Makes sense, thanks. Will be interesting to see if it defaults to slower output on the gauge display or if that's customisable with the software.
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Thanks guys - done. Grabbed the Plus version as it wasn't much more. Just a re-release with apparently faster sampling times. Will help me learn a bit about how the AFRs behave in various circumstances before I go changing anything.
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Anyone had any horror stories with the Innovate Mtx-l wideband before I pull the trigger?
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Thanks! That gives me some stuff to read.
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Hey guys. Good topic - have read it over the past week and learned a lot. I'm thinking of going down the DIY route and so am starting the process of reading and learning. Have also joined the HP Tuners forum and downloaded the demo software for a play. I'm liking the HP Tuners route as I can easily edit and experiment myself at a relatively low entry cost - not much more than paying someone to tune my car once off. I'm also looking to learn more so than generate massive numbers, and might make progressive upgrades over time. Car is a stock BA with 150k, 3" inch 100 cell cat and 2x2.5" catback. Everything else is standard, including the tune. I'm thinking that is a good starting point, as while I learn I can easily flash back to the factory tune if the car isn't behaving and I need to get to work! Once I get the hang of that, I'll start looking into injectors and pump. Intercooler upgrade? Meh. I live in Canberra. That's a pretty massive improvement to IATs already. Probably won't bother tuning the BTR, unless there is an option to tune out the adaptive rubbish. I plan to do plenty of reading over the next six months or so while my time is taken up with a few other things and if I feel like I'm understanding it all enough, drop the cash on the software. I've ordered this book to learn a bit more about how turbo systems work as some good background: https://www.bookdepository.com/Turbo-Jay-Miller/9781932494297?ref=grid-view&qid=1499827309182&sr=1-10 Does anyone have any recommendations for good books about tuning generally that would be good for a beginner? A quick Google suggests that the Greg Banish stuff is well regarded, so I'm looking at something like: https://www.bookdepository.com/Engine-Management-Advance-Tuning-Greg-Banish/9781932494426?ref=grid-view&qid=1499827416736&sr=1-1 At the very least, I'm already learning a lot more about how my car works which is great. Good work to all of you who have posted useful information up here.
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Good stuff! Make sure you mark how the top hat aligns with lower mount of the shock. If it is out and you have to twist it into place it is hard work! I bought spring compressors and found they got the old springs off but weren't strong enough for the new springs. Removing the spring/shock assemblies and asking a tyre place or something to switch the shocks over might not be much more than hiring.
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I'd still do both sides, regardless of brand. Otherwise you will have one new and one partially worn, with different performance. You could almost guarantee that 2x after market units will be less than a single OE, and the OE will be a rebranded after-market manufacturer anyway.
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I went KYB (and new King Springs) all round in my BA sedan about 6 months ago and am very happy with the handling. About $125 per corner for the shocks at somewhere like Sparesbox. Should last better than Monroe too. Think about springs too if yours have some age - about $200 a pair and you have to remove the old ones anyway to change the shocks so no extra labour. Also do both sides at once otherwise your handling and especially braking might be a bit unpredictable.
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Need more info. Did your shaft come from Repco?
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Haha yeah I remember once after we had been here a few months, I took the kids to the park and it was 4 degrees and foggy at midday. Was thinking what have I done! Upside is the summers are pretty nice and cool off at night compared to what Adelaide was like.
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Good luck! Was minus 8.7 at 7am when I got up!
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That ^^^^ Actually the engine bay is quite short compared to a Falcon. I did consider a Territory but it is nice to work on something different too. Yeah auto leccy is not a bad idea. Thanks for the thoughts guys. I'll let you know how I go. Meant to be building a cubby house and arranging a bathroom reno, not fixing effin cars again.
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Nup, no ethanol. Yeah two new genuine oxygen sensors and MAF. Same symptoms before and after. Time to get cracking with the new vacuum hose I think and then maybe find somewhere to smoke test it properly. Or Barra conversion.
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Has a air flow wire and a temp wire. Effectively uses the two to calculate air density and volume.
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Yeah MAF. Should be same concept though as it measures the air going in, adds appropriate fuel and expects a certain amount of oxygen left on the way out. Nah runs like a treat - perfect idle and power is fine.
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Alright lads, anyone feel like turning your collective brainpower to a different make? (I'm sure many of you do this already.) The Toyota forums are pretty quiet! Got a 2010 Toyota Kluger (3.5L V6) throwing an engine warning light and disabling stability control. Is giving me codes of P0171 and P0174 which is lean bank 1 and lean bank 2. Basically means that the O2 sensors are detecting more oxygen than expected and the car is adding fuel to compensate. Long term fuel trims are sitting around 15%, fluctuating up to 30%. I'm pretty sure these should sit on zero, which I've confirmed by logging the same data on the XR6T. So far the car has been checked out twice by an independent mechanic. They thought they got some improvement by cleaning the MAF sensor, and I then put in a brand new one because it wasn't that expensive but didn't help. They thought it was likely that O2 sensors were the cause, which I doubt as it is both banks. Quotes were $800 x2, so I ended up fitting genuine Densos myself for a $200 each, figuring they were well into their useful life anyway. I seemed to get a noticeable bump in economy from this, but no improvement in fuel trims. Ended up taking it to Toyota twice - first time they just cleared the code and said yep fixed, second time (today) I made a bit of a song and dance and they got a diagnostic tech to go over it. He agreed the long terms fuel trims were out of spec but couldn't find anything to cause it. Thinks it is either gummed up injectors and suggested a couple of tanks of 98 plus some injector cleaner (unlikely I think, as no misfires or loss of power and it is equally affecting both cylinder banks) or a leak in the intake manifold gasket, on the basis that the service where the spark plugs are changed (requiring removal of manifold for access) was not done by Toyota and therefore was probably stuffed up. Ridiculous reason, but could be. I asked him to smoke test the intake system, but they didn't have a machine. Fuel pressure is good. He also said that most of their mechanics wouldn't have the experience or training to dig into the data to explain a code, and that they didn't have another Kluger handy to compare the data with. Geez, the new ones have the same engine and I find it hard to believe they couldn't find a V6 Camry or Aurion handy! I'm still thinking it must be an intake leak between the MAF and the individual banks. I tried smoke testing it myself with a cigar a few weeks back with no effect, although you'd have to be lucky to catch it with that I reckon. An exhaust manifold leak (pre-O2 sensor) is also unlikely as again, it is affecting both banks. Along with the injector cleaner, I also grabbed a couple of metres of vacuum hose. Will cost me almost nothing to go through and replace all of those. After that, I might pull the intake manifold apart and replace the gaskets. That's a big job to do on a hunch though. Anyone got any other thoughts? Given the car drives fine and nothing major has been detected in the diagnosis, I'm pretty keen to do some troubleshooting at home before chucking more money at it. The plan was to focus my attention on the BA and house stuff, and leave the family daily to the pros but I'm not having much luck with that so far. Cheers!
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Just cured my 6 year old's hiccups by scaring the sh!t out of him. Now I just have to stop him crying...
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I put up a dead oven for free to be used as parts, to save a trip to the tip. Dude says he will take it. Rocks up and says he just wants to take the glass from the door. Sorry fella, all or nothing! Wasn't planning to spend six weeks parting out a free oven!
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Any mods?
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+1 for having an impact wrench in the car