El Andrew

I'll take a snap tonight. Will hopefully fit them tomorrow night too.

I ended up buying a braided line too, but haven't fitted it. I bought these that Puff suggested: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F131443968861 I bought two sets (they contain two clamps) so am intending to point one up and one down on each corner.

Looks sweet! I had a rear door making a grumbling noise and not locking. Bought one of the kits for $22 that has enough motors and cogs to fix 4 doors. After market door mechanism is about $50 or more, genuine $200. Trim off, mechanism out, cogs and springs replaced, mechanism in, trim on in about 20 mins. Would be less next time around. That is by far the easiest door trim and mech I have ever worked on.

Haha yeah good work. Usually sorting a rough idle in a Falcon is: Step 1: go grey Step 2: become alcoholic Step 3: learnt to live with rough idle

Did some searching and can't find anything that suggests a filter will help aeration. Maybe it will, but there's not a lot of info out there. I changed my leaking high pressure line a couple of years back (with a cheapie at short notice) and it has started to weep again. That has coincided with power steering groan returning, so I'm suspicious it is sucking air in through the leak. Have you checked yours over for any leaks? I've purchased the hose that Ultimate Power Steering do - has a different fitting to the factory one so that you can swap out the o-ring in future without replacing the whole hose. That Autobahn page is funny - title says power steering filter, description says oil filter and photo says fuel filter!

I think Supercheap do, but more expensive than ebay

Nah engine out I reckon. [emoji106]

My stock BA definitely comes on boost better with an improved exhaust (3 inch cat into twin 2.5). In my view that is an improvement. As Keith is getting at though, your tune is still targetting a set boost level so peak power won't be any better. What you want to avoid is making it so easy for the turbo to spin up that it boosts beyond what the ECU seems deems is acceptable based on the stock tune. That will throw an engine light and shut down your fun. Mine hasn't done that, but I reckon I'm cutting it close and am planning to tune it and increase target boost. The BA turbo is different to FG so don't assume my experience will be yours. If I was you, I'd probably do either the cat or the cat back, but not both. Some people claim that any exhaust change on a stock tune risks detonation and engine destruction, but personally I think they have read too much interwebs.

I'm simultaneously reading and learning, while prepping the car for tuning (sorting a few issues, major service items, brakes, trans cooler, etc). Was planning to go the HP route but this is seriously tempting me.

Have fun guys - would have loved to have been there!

Never heard of a filter for these, but I've found this useful on my BA: http://www.fordmods.com/gearbox-suspension-brake-driveline-f4/diy-fixing-ba-power-steering-shudder-t55521.html

FTFY

I've lost track now of who is being a smartarse, who is being an arsehole and who is being a smartarsehole

Lol - was just outside doing this then read this afterwards. I should have taken some sequential pics! I was getting some hissing from near the turbo and some funny pedal response at light to medium load. The rear two turbo to manifold studs were almost falling out!

Ooh nice. I'll measure up and then grab some I reckon. Will be good for router my transmission cooler hose too.

Found this that looks ok: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F172846222927

I've been thinking the same - would look heaps better

Thanks!

How do you guys flush your torque converters? I'm thinking I will drain and refill trans sump (new oil and filter), then disconnect cooler line from the radiator, start engine until some fluid has drained out, switch off motor and top up trans, rinse and repeat until the fluid coming out of cooler line is the new stuff. Won't get it all of course - similar concept to flushing brakes. Lots of articles suggesting to disconnect cooler pipe, then run motor until all fluid is pumped out then switch off. Seems like a bad idea to me...

Haha me too! I'm keeping a document with the stuff I want to do in my tune when I eventually finish getting the car right and then purchase the software. Item 2 above just went in there.

Trans cooler arrived today. Just need to pick up some fluid and a filter today. Taking a bit longer to get into reverse these days, so gonna give it some love. Tried to fix my ongoing exhaust clunk last night, but reckon I've made it worse. Still not sure if the rear hangers are hitting each other or if the twin 2.5" x-force is struggling to clear the diff cradle. Might head out for another look.

Ta. I should try and find an old pic and see if it was broken before the workshop fitted the oil line. There's enough there that I can probably cable tie the lines to what's left of the bracket.

That sucks. I've pretty much decided for the Falcon that it only goes to a workshop if absolutely necessary. Too many stuff arounds, mistakes, broken bits. Weirdly I was just looking at that very bolt an hour ago myself as it has always annoyed me that the water line hangs a bit low. Is that plastic bracket meant to hold the water line and is the bracket in this pic complete or broken off? Edit: Puff's setup with the water line tucked above the bolt looks good. My filter in the oil line sits way to close to the belt.

One simple job... Replaced my BOV. Went for a drive, no boost at all. Forgot the clamp on the throttle body. Tightened that and went for another drive. Plenty of boost, but also plenty of hektic dose bro. Turns out I had fitted the BOV the wrong way round.

Haha could do that. Don't like my chances though. I yelled from the roof for the eldest to turn off the tap that feeds the a/c. He tells back that he is busy with Lego...