El Andrew

I think he just means he wants to keep the car moving on the cheap while he waits for a better tailshaft. If it fits, I can't see why it wouldn't be fine even under reasonable acceleration, as long as he didn't do stupid launches or skids.

Morning Keith. You know you are back in Adelaide when you see a VZ Commo with plates '2WILD'. Still, I rented a Yaris so I can't talk.

Haha hard to know! I'm on office worker and I'd have a go at that stuff. My main problem is I need the car as a daily. Not much fun if it's 11:30 pm and there's still car parts spread over the garage floor! Reminds me of when I did the upper trailing arms in the rear of the EL. Thought I'd be efficient and do both sides at the same time to save tool swapping etc I.e. take bolt out left side then take it out right side. Problem was the arms help locate the axle against the pressure of the springs and weight of the suspension. Couldn't make the holes in the arm line up with the mounting points. Ended up tying the axle to the jack from the boot, then tying the jack to a tree. Then wound the jack to pull the axle until the bolt holes lined up. Not sure if I was more amazed at my ingenuity or my stupidity. Now I only ever do one sidebar a time. Helps if you can't work out how something goes back together too.

Haha I know. In the 13 years I had my EL, I can think of about 10 suspension jobs that were done. Other than that, a new power steering hose is the only other repair I can think of (other than of course fluids, pads, filters, etc.). Well until it sh!t the bed at the end, anyway. Assuming everything but the blade arm bushes is at the front rather than the rear: Inner lower control arm - $70 should be easy to fit - unbolt, lower the arm, destroy the old bush, install the new one which is split so doesn't need a press (I've only done this on an EL, but should be similar) Lower shock control arm - $40 - easy. Did about a year ago on BA. Brake caliper off and out of the way, remove upright from upper control arm hub assembly can be moved around, disengage from strut. I drilled a couple of holes through the old bushes (carefully to not damage the inner bush surface of the control arm!) and could then push out the old bushes - I hole-sawed a chunk of wood and then with a couple of sockets and an F-clamp was able to press them out. May not have even needed to drill - I thought of the press idea after I had drilled! New ones are split so just pop in from either side. Steering rack ends - $60, not sure but doesn't look hard. Radius rod bushes - Not sure, I don't think BA on has radius rods? Maybe they mean inner bushes upper control arms (not much else left in the front end), which I think would be easy if you are disconnecting the upright from the top ball joint anyway. Blade arm bushes - $250ish, using Arron's link above for the entire arm. Look's pretty simple. Then get a wheel alignment. So I reckon you get get out of it for less than half of your quote and wouldn't need a press. I've only personally done some of the jobs above, so others might have more thoughts where I have made guesses.

Brb heading to Adelaide. Not to fix your roof though.

Ah ok, I'm mainly wanting to compare to see if I'm sagging or not, which probably needs weight on the car. They look factory, so chucking them regardless is probably not a huge waste of money. My bolts look like they'll want half a litre of WD40 too. My centre diff bush is new-ish but not the front ones, as it has the Nolathane version that doesn't need the cradle dropped. I might book it in for a look over at my suspension place before I order anything. Probably due for an alignment too, cos I hate asking a place to diagnose something for free and then I go off and fix it myself. At least I can pay them for something. Thanks Arron, that's the link I was looking at too. Seem like a no brainer compared to buying pushes and getting them pressed in. That pump is working a treat by the way. AFRs are a bit fatter on full throttle which makes me think the old pump was a bit weary. The filter was a bit crusty.

Thanks man, I'll take a look and compare. If I grab new arms it looks like a pretty straight forward job to install.

For the control blade bushes, should the void be the same width the whole way round? I cant fit a finger below the centre part, but can almost fit two fingers above. Chasing a rear end clunk and am a bit suspicious these have collapsed.

Thanks. It may be the only downside of this approach is the installation, but that's done now. And all that meant is 3 mins rather than 3 secs to get the unit in. I checked the depth from the bottom of the tank to the bolt face (just with a long screwdriver) before I installed it. I can compress way past that point with no kinks.

Haha all good guys. I'll look into modifying the pot as I hadn't really gone there yet and I will have another go at the hoses then. Current setup should be fine in the meantime. Unless my fake pump dies first... [emoji3]

Thanks guys. Maybe I'll give this a try rather than buying different hose. Having said that, there's probably no real reason why my approach won't work fine now that it's in. It's not like you can see it! I'm sure I read in another thread about someone looping the hose to avoid kinks. I'll be watching my AFRs closely of course. The kits that are drop in have a Walbro pump, but look like just a cheapo cradle. I feel like I'd rather have some control over the quality of hose, etc. and so like the idea of using the stock cradle rather than paying more for something that might be a backward step in the long run.

Yeah I fully compressed it to test before fitting and it was all good. Problem is of course you can't actually confirm that once it's in the tank. Ultimately I'd prefer a more conventional setup, but waiting for some corrugated hose to come in the post isn't going to get me to work on Monday. Swapping the hose out sometime would be a comparatively quick job. I don't really like the approach of cutting the hose to length as a straight piece. Seems to me it would be a very fine margin between the pump sitting too high (hose too short) to or the hose kinking (hose too long).

LOLWUT yourself - looks identical to this: http://walbrofuelpumps.com/255lph-walbro-gss341-intank-fuel-pump.html Was from TI Performance so definitely genuine. I agree the setup should look like your pic, but that's assuming you have access to the corrugated hose, which today I didn't. So instead I did nice big easy bends to minimise the risk of kinking. As I said I might yet order some of the corrugated lines. Clamps are EFI clamps and I was promised they were good to go in fuel.

Walbro 255 in and running good. Bloody hell that submersible hose was impossible to find in Canberra - took about 10 phone calls. Did a big loop on each side to avoid kinking but still allow movement. Was a pain to get it back in the tank with those elephant ears. I might order some corrugated stuff in case I have issues with this set up.

Actually ignore me. Did some more research and I think I will loop some hose and if that turns out to be too difficult to work with, I'll order these: https://www.efihardware.com/products/2524/Submersible-Flex-Fuel-Hose-E85-Compatible-150mm-Long

Thanks for that. Why the corrugated? Just to help set the depth correctly without kinking a normal hose when installing, or a longer term reason?

Just chucking a Walbro 255 in my BA. This thread was super helppful. All done, just need to grab some hose and clamps in the morning to finish it off. I'm going to replace the supply and return lines in the cradle. A couple of questions that you lot might be able to help with: 1. Do you guys like to install the sleeve that comes with the pump or not worry? 2. I've got a few left over clips, washers, etc. and what looks like maybe an extension piece for the filter attachment. I'm assuming the kit caters for a range of installation scenarios and this is normal? I found the quick connect hose fittings external to the cradle popped off almost straight away with a pair of needle nose pliers. But the flexible, corrugated lines inside the cradle were an absolute PITA to cut free.

I went to a Telstra SIM only plan for $49 for 15gb + 5gb bonus, unlimited calls and texts and a $200 JB voucher. Two months later I 'upgraded' to a $59 plan with 15gb, Pixel 2, Home Mini, $100 JB voucher and kept my bonus 5gb. I was lucky with timing, but I'm not complaining! The incentives are to encourage sign up, but I agree with Keith they don't owe them to you. More competition would definitely be good for the customer though. Hopefully TPG will make things a bit more interesting.

My Pixel 2 came with a 6m Apple subscription through Telstra. The Android app for Apple Music is THE WORST. Glitchy as. I would have thought it was in their interests to make it perfect and wow Android users.

Mine has been dumped on twice now, so I'm guessing I'll be doing the same job in the not too distant future.

Great write up! I dunno, your old alternator looked pretty good...

If you disconnect your added wiring from the fuses does everything come good? What was the reason you wired to interior lights? Wouldn't you want the gauges to light up with headlights, not interior lights? Not sure why you would need always on 12v by ACC wouldn't be the place to get that. I'd check all fuses too - I've had a fuse blow before when working on something unrelated. Learner from that to always disconnect the battery!

I can't pick an oil leak in the photos, but I would try to gently nip up the bolt for the oil feed line into the turbo. Don't go nuts and strip the threads! The breather on the engine will have oil inside it but shouldn't be leaking out - try checking both ends are secure.

Lol I saw the opposite on Facebook recently. "Car is great - only selling cos I have too many cars and don't have room. Would consider swap for 4x4 or Japanese turbo." What??

Good stuff. Dot 5 is probably too much hassle, but 5.1 might be a goer. I've got the 322mm brackets for the front, plus a full set of braided lines to go in. Territory rear calipers will be cheap and then I'll probably have a chat to RBS about the rest. I reckon improving my braking style would help too - I was on them a bit early and longer.