El Andrew

Finally downloaded the PCMTec software, hooked up my cable and sucked out my stock tune. Happy times ahead! Or so I thought... My first problem is my desired boost table (auF0306). It looks like this: If I look at the stock files for my strategy (HAANFHZ), the table looks much more like what I would have expected: Similarly the wastegate duty cycle table is a flat 0.45 across the board. I was of the understanding that the car was unmodified when I bought it, as was the previous owner (who seemed very legit, but who knows about its life before that.) My boost gauge only ever reads about 6 PSI, so it is obviously not even trying to reach the sort of boost that is in the map. So I'm thinking that maybe the car has been tuned before, but in a very unusual way? Now that I write that, about 2 and a half years ago I had a new turbo core put in. I had previously fitted a new boost gauge teed off the BOV and removed the hose from the old gauge to a contraption I assumed was a boost pressure sensor specifically for the gauge. The turbo place that did the CHRA replacement said there was some sort of weird boost control device hooked up to the turbo, which he removed but couldn't work out how it functioned. I said nah, its just the sensor for the old gauge. Maybe the car had some sort of boost controller hooked up (I'll see if I still have it floating around the shed for a pic) and the tune boost tables were just zeroed out so that this device did the boost control? And now that the device is out, the boost I'm getting is just a function of load/WG spring pressure and the WG duty cycle table? Any thoughts or suggestions would be great! I'm thinking I probably need to reset my boost control tables to match the stock strategy, flash that and see how it behaves? Or any thoughts on why else my boost tables would be so whacky? Base fuel table is untouched compared to stock strategy. AFRs are bang-on what I would expect too, so I don't think the tune has been beaten-up too much otherwise.

Lol I have my 14th wedding anniversary this year. Got married a few months after the last post in this thread.

You need a 3/8 breaker bar on the tensioner to release the belt. But makes sure you are confident in putting it back together afterwards. Google says: http://autofix.com.au/blog/fg-falcon-drivebelt-replacement

Haha I might try that. And if someone at work hears me muttering "I'm doing it for the skids" I'll claim I said "kids".

Yeah I agree that's the key. Boots in a few seconds. Buying at least a mid spec machine and good quality makes a difference to longevity too.

Was meant to spend the weekend doing trans service, installing transcooler and intercooler in the car, plus plugs, hectic GTR locking tab washers for the turbo manifold and P clamps for my turbo oil and water lines. Instead I've been sick on the couch, so decided to chuck a new hard drive in my laptop after the main storage drive died during the week. Was just going to whack it in and re-sync to my OneDrive account, but thought stuff it, time for a Windows refresh. Dell laptop is almost 6 years old and still runs like the day I bought it. 17" i7 with 8GB and a SSD for the OS. Can't argue with that value.

You won't lose much coolant changing the thermostat. You will take a bit of air in, but this will clear quickly. Just top up the coolant, let it idle up to temp and then top up some more.

Yep he can drive alright! Great result. Too many power circuits ahead for him to be realistically in the title hunt though I think. Man I'd love to see him go to Ferrari and rough up Vettel. That was pretty incident free for Monaco.

I've been a Hamilton fan for a long time (can't actually remember why now) but I'd happily see Dan P1 tonight. Following the China win, it just again ratchets up the contract mystery a bit more. Merc should be seriously considering it because I reckon Lewis is probably the riskiest of the current top flight in terms of retiring out of the blue. I reckon Lewis and Dan would work ok together and Merc could manage it. Ferrari managing Vettel and Dan on the other hand...

Haha yeah did lol. The 2016 comparison is amazing in how similar they were: https://wtf1.com/post/verstappens-fp3-crash-was-incredibly-similar-to-the-one-he-had-in-2016/

My mistake - I meant P3!

True re Verstappen, although sometimes his traffic issues stem from frustration or impatience. Monaco is bad timing as I'm more interested in seeing whether the pecking order from Spain is going to continue or not. Monaco tells us nothing!

Haha yeah I forgot that too. My prediction is Max will be frustrated at being a tenth behind Dan all weekend and will over drive it and put it in the wall exiting the tunnel in Q3.

Lol I bought the 5 year old two new school jumpers two weeks ago. Now he has none.

I agree. For a high end setup, sure. But for me, while live tuning would be great, $3500 gets me PCMTec, the obd cable, a zorst, valve springs and an intercooler...

Thanks for that. I don't have an MPVI as I ended up going PCMTec. Was just using the forum for some background reading, but couldn't see tunes. Will be interesting to see if they let me still have that type of account or if that has changed. Speaking of which, the software was meant to be a birthday present from the wife and kids which is just over a week away. Have been holding off on using it so I can do the whole wow look thanks kids. If all goes to plan I'll do the trans cooler and intercooler this weekend then start building some toons. Fuel and boost to start with, maybe up to 8psi on stock injectors. Injectors and a bit more boost later in the year, plus more research on how much I should screw around with timing. My current feeling is not much....

Turned out to be this - there's a high point on the backing plates that was just kissing one of the rotors. Was right near the centre, but was able to replicate it by spinning the hub by hand with the wheels off and in neutral (cos AWD). Was actually inside the braking surface so hasn't hurt the rotor at all. Pulled it all apart anyway and cleaned up the hubs like I should have so I don't have any future issues with uneven wear.

Yeah there's two wishbone springs that push the pads apart that fit little holes on the outer edge of the pads. So can only fit them with the pads fitted to the brackets but the caliper out of the way. I seriously doubt it would matter if I just chucked them! Had a thought that maybe I dented the backing plate while beating up the old disc. Might try and poke it with a screwdriver through the wheel spokes before I drive home. Interestingly I had to mix and match a bit to get the pads to fit. With the pistons fully depressed some combinations would fit within the caliper, which makes me think there was a bit of variation between the pads in the box. I've never fitted Bendix pads before (have removed a few sets before throwing them in the bin in a cloud of brake dust). Really not many options for this car for pads though. Project Mus will go on the Falcon soon, but apparently supply issues at the moment.

I just tried my usual shortcut to the Aussie Ford's HPT page and said it couldn't be found@Puffwagon. Tried logging in and says my username can't be found.

New front pads and rotors on the Kluger last night. Bit of a PITA because I removed the caliper mounting brackets to access the pads, given the rotors had to come off. But the pads have clips on them that can only be accessed be swinging the caliper off the brackets, so after switching rotors I had to remount the calipers and then go again. Rotors were seized on and took a stack of WD40 and a deadblow hammer to loosen them. I was so relieved to get the rotors off I forgot to then clean the hubs. Brakes work great this morning, except I've got a pad on rotor sound while turning so I suspect I've got a bit of movement from an uneven hub service. Off it all comes again tonight...

Interesting. I recently went onto the iiNet VDSL network (which is effectively FTTN, but has been around for a while in the ACT). I went for the fast plan, which should be minimum 30 down. I'm getting 14/1 pretty consistently so am arguing they can fix it or charge me the lower rate. When VDSL goes in, they run new everything from the pole to the wall outlet. Tech came out and said the issue was that there wasn't a DSLAM in my local node, so I'm just getting passed through to the supernode so am effectively miles away from the node. Physically impossible to get speeds higher than I am now unless the local node is upgraded. Waiting to hear whether they will progress a DSLAM installation at the node or adjust my bill/contract to the cheaper plan. I said to the tech that NBN is only a month or so away. He said to not touch it, as the cables in our area are super old, whereas the VDSL lines are only 15-20 years old. If the DSLAM gets done, then he thinks I will get much better performance staying with what I have.

Probably the funniest thing I have seen in F1. Grosjean spins and rather than waiting for the oncoming pack to pass, rips a massive skid! Rather than trying to explain it, he should have just said "Totally worth it" https://www.formula1.com/en/latest/headlines/2018/5/grosjean-_likes-spinning-a-lot--hulkenberg-after-lap-1-crash.html

For low coolant, yes car would likely overheat. If the thermostat was stuck open, the car would take longer to warm up and longer to get warm air from the heater. I chucked a new thermostat in my car as it was very slow to get the heater going. But if you can't get any hot air, even after running the car for a while, thermostat is unlikely to be the cause. It's pretty hard for anyone to accurately guess because your issue could be the correct or one of the electrical or mechanical components under the dash. This article gives some good possible causes and testing to help identify: http://www.fordwreckers.com.au/hvac-module-problem-diagnosis-in-ba-bf-fg-ford-falcons/

Ask them to make a configuration change in a key IT system and as soon as they hit enter, flip the main power shutoff for the entire building. May have unintended HR consequences for you though...

Haha yep loving in the car definitely warms up the interior and reduces the need for a functioning heater